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Thread: Torque specs for tikka rings?? Scope sliding backwards

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    short answer is ..tighter than they are now...suggest a drop of locktite on the end thats being forced INTO rings.... fair bugs me that rifles leave shops NOT set up right.
    As Micky says a small drop of loctite
    Micky Duck likes this.
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

  2. #17
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    Those are just the new copies of the old cheap alloy rings that Tikka used to give you in the box. I would recommend getting better rings. Whether you go for Optilocks or a rail and any other good brand it's up to you, both ways will cost about the same. Optilocks are about $300-$400 depending on where you get them from and stainless vs blued. A rail will be about $100 and then good weaver/picatinny rings for it will be about $200 or so.

  3. #18
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    self amalgamating rubber tape, peel the back off put it inside the rings ang tighten, they wont move again. but better rings is the way to go
    Micky Duck likes this.

  4. #19
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    You’ve actually got to do tikka rings up pretty tight, I normally use a 1” socket set with a 1 meter cheater bar and use my foot to nip it up about three turns past tight, when the tube changes shape I back it off a quarter turn, job done.
    Bryan, crewe2, BRADS and 8 others like this.

  5. #20
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    Talleys..job done.
    6mm ackley, jusepy81 and MB like this.

  6. #21
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    Thanks for the input everyone. Will try the loctite/cheaper remedies first and failing that will
    Be on the lookout for some talleys
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308Neil View Post
    Thanks for the input everyone. Will try the loctite/cheaper remedies first and failing that will
    Be on the lookout for some talleys
    Ditch those rings they are crap before you mark your scope more.
    Some used to use double sided tape inside the rings to stop slipping.

    Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk
    BRADS likes this.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP View Post
    Ditch those rings they are crap before you mark your scope more.
    Some used to use double sided tape inside the rings to stop slipping.

    Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk
    Looks too late for the marking

    Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

  9. #24
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    Another cheap option is to use castor sugar (it needs the tiniest amount) instead of rosin, which no one has anymore. I used this on a 7x64 that had beaten everything else and it worked.

  10. #25
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    I use nail polish and assemble before it dries when Ive had that happen. Got a dnz onepiece on my tikka, never had a prob with it

  11. #26
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    On my tikka 308,pic rail,6 scew contessa rings.Nothing moves,no loctite needed.Buy good rings other wise you use more ammo than the cost of good scope rings over time.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sakoswarosorted View Post
    You’ve actually got to do tikka rings up pretty tight, I normally use a 1” socket set with a 1 meter cheater bar and use my foot to nip it up about three turns past tight, when the tube changes shape I back it off a quarter turn, job done.
    Clearly the technique used by many sellers of scopes with "barely noticeable" ring marks. I just hate seeing nice scopes ruined by dumb gorillas.

  13. #28
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    +1 for talleys.
    Buy once cry once and all that rubbish.
    57jl likes this.

  14. #29
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    I used Sportsmatch. Great rings, good price.

    https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...-type-of-rifle

    The Signature Burris rings with the insert are good too, but I can't find them in NZ for the Tikka dovetail. Maybe someone with better googlefoo could

  15. #30
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    I used 18 inch/pound on the rng screws and 25 inch/pound on the screws holding the rings onto the action. Seems to work OK>

 

 

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