Thread: What target design and why ?

My CAD program drew all my targets where I use grid patterns @ 1.047 inches which I thought was clever of it.
I have at least 6 different targets I use and they are all tailored for either 50 yds (22 RF) or 100 yds (CF) with aiming points to suit particular scope reticles or open sight foresight width. I find red targets have good contrast and use hollow diamonds or hollow squares - again with the hollows to suit reticle sizes/thicknesses. My more simplistic targets are A4 Landscape, have no grid, and 1 row of 3 squares of differing hollow centre dimensions and 1 row of 3 triangles same again, differing hollow centre dimensions. Some of my scopes are plain crosshair and at least 2 are target dots so one style of target doesn't suit all. I must admit I bother less now with the elaborate grid patterned targets and operate on the KISS principle.

I also have one target made up of 2 A4 portrait sheets glued at their edges to give a tall target. It has a 1.047" grid. I use this at 100 yds to test scopes for accuracy of turret adjustments. The results of this test I then put into my ballistic program for that rifle/scope combination.

Originally Posted by Puffin

@6x47 I understand from your answer that you typically use SFP scopes on reasonably high power,....
Sorry my question in the earlier post was not clear.

You've obviously thought a lot harder about it than I have.
A summary of my approach is probably " Use enough scope power to get good definition of the target item and then pull the trigger when the reticle is symmetrically centred on the mark". You can possibly over-think this one.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

Try the same square turned 45 degrees so that it looks like a diamond. Makes it easier to line up the crosshairs of a duplex reticle on the four corners.

Attachment 45428

Plus one for this design

This one, is the best 100yrd or meter target in my opinion.
It has inch squares, any one with a computer and a printer can make it.
It doesn't lie to you, you get what you shot.

I agree the hollow diamond is best for scopes , But I am lazy , and just use a sheet of A4 paper , and a few 1 inche black stickies , if the scope is powerful enough , I use the bottom LH corner as a more precise aiming mark .

I use the Eotech 50yard printout, keep a copy beside you and mark your shots, with a good scope or binos you don't even have to get up to check, just have to remember that the guidance on the sheet is for 50yd, if i'm zeroing at 100

I prefer a black diamond as well.

Originally Posted by hotbarrels

I use the diamond type targets for accuracy testing as I find it easier to hold a sight picture. The background grid is 1/2" square so it makes it easy to adjust sights. The single target with the grid underneath is for drop testing at longer range.
I use the rabbit target for small game practice. Printed full size on a A4 paper make it about life size. Primary kill zones are shown with the two circles.

Attachment 45517Attachment 45518

I like the drop one especially for this coming weekend.
Have you got a link to it?

Originally Posted by Willie

I like the drop one especially for this coming weekend.
Have you got a link to it?

I drew them up myself in MS Word. I have loaded them into dropbox so hopefully you can access them via the link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/41qpg52exc...gets.docx?dl=0

Originally Posted by hotbarrels

I drew them up myself in MS Word. I have loaded them into dropbox so hopefully you can access them via the link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/41qpg52exc...gets.docx?dl=0

I can and well done that fella, some right good buggers around here!
Much appreciated.

Useful thread. After trying a few different things, this is what I'm using at the moment for my .22LR to 75 metres. I just want to know that I can get a headshot on a bunny at this distance rather than win any competitions. The larger diamonds are 5cm, the smaller ones 3cm. The 1cm black dots came from an air rifle target shooting video on YouTube. The presenter said the smaller the target, the more precise your aiming will be. This has proven true for me, but I only go for them at 25 meters or less. Longer distances are just torture!

This is the target I use, which I created myself using my AutoCAD software. As mentioned above, I also turn it on a 45 degree angle so it becomes a diamond shape, which makes it much easier to align with the cross hairs in a scope.

I then added the gridlines - the distance between the slightly thicker lines is 1 inch, while the gap between the thinner lines is 0.5 inch. Once again, I find this easy when I'm looking at the groups on my target and I can instantly see my grouping size. I find it also works when using the precision target software I have discussed on the forum here as I can use the gridlines when calibrating the software.

I am quite happy to PDF the target and send to someone on here. I print on a reasonably heavy stock, as I get a perfect bullet hole. I find normal printing paper is a pain because it rips.