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Thread: 410 Enfield

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    A bit more done, I have welded a pad to the suppressor tube to mount the wood work too and inleted the wood to fit, the woodwork always has the potential for stuff ups but worked out ok this time.
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    I made up a little steel plate to bolt the sling swivel onto, this also keys into the front cap
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    For the front sight I cut down the Enfield one and welded it to the shroud, it probably would have worked but it was higher than I wanted, the idea is to mount an aperture or v on the back of the charger bridge.
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    So this was binned and a brass bead made up, its just a m4 screw with a bit of file work, it seems to be a better height and needs the notch about 5mm above the charger bridge, this was checked with a laser bore sighter and stacking bits and pieces onto the charger bridge to find the right height.
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    Tommy, Micky Duck and csmiffy like this.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    I have started on the rear sight, this will be a ghost ring/aperture screwed onto the back of the charger bridge, in retrospect not the easiest place to attach something to...

    To start with I filled the back of the bridge flat, then I figured out where I wanted the screws and marked out their positions on a piece of steel that the aperture will be made from. This is where it starts to get a bit tricky (well for me anyway) I have trouble holding a tap straight while threading a hole, maybe others do too.... So to make sure the two holes lined up and the holes were taped straight I used this long and convoluted process...

    I drilled the holes in the sight piece at the tapping drill size (even though this piece will end up with thru holes). Then I clamped it to the charger bridge and drilled one of the holes in the bridge. Being so deep I had to make a long drill (yes you can buy them but mitre 10 didnt have the right size and they are not cheap) Then the sight piece came off and the first hole was tapped, to make sure it is straight I held the tap in the drill press and turned the chuck by hand while putting light downward force on it, once it was well started I finished with a tap wrench

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    It was then lined up with the hole in the bridge and clamped on again, when in place I threaded the tap through the sight and proceeded to tap the bridge, the sight hole was then drilled out to clearance and the other side done. It is a bit convoluted but takes a lot of the risk out of stuffing up the tapped hole, especially when you need to use a small cresent to turn the tap because nothing else will fit in there. This process was used on the second hole except that instead of a clamp the first bolt was used. Now unfortunately I do not have a stash of BA taps and screws so M4 it is
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    Micky Duck likes this.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Now back to the magazine for a bit, the drawing of the ribs is glued onto a bit of steel, multiple holes drilled and filed to size, this will be the hammer form to create the rib that guides the rim on the cartridge and the front rib kind of controls the parallelism of the cartridges.

    Attachment 90845

    Attachment 90846



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