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Thread: Anyone 3axis cnc router a stock before?

  1. #1
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Anyone 3axis cnc router a stock before?

    I'm toying with the idea of cncing a wood stock.
    I can make the 3d model.
    I have access to a 3 axis machine.
    I can program the machine.
    Problem is not having that 4th axis.
    And I'm not sure on the best method to index the stock.
    Has anyone here cut a stock on 3 axis machine?
    If so how did you go about indexing and what where your results like?

  2. #2
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    I've not cut a stock on the router (yet), but use dowels for indexing other work pieces. I use 4 dowels in a rectangle on small jobs. Would use more on something the size of a stock.
    This is easiest if you use a jig fixed to the router bed with the dowels located at a known location. machine the corresponding dowel holes in your wood for the stock, attach to the jig, and then start cutting the profiles. Flip it over into the same dowels, and you should still be aligned.

  3. #3
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Pretty sure there is a feature on this by a forum member that did this last year @chalkeye ???

  4. #4
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Thanks, that's what I was thinking.
    I'll get the wood sufaced first to make sure it's flat aswell.
    How about machining the inleting, should I do it last you think?
    Machine the 2 sides, leave a couple blocks of materail with flat bottoms on the underside of the stock and use them for alignment?

  5. #5
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    Yep - 2 sides first, then the inletting. Definitely use the flats left over to index the inletting .
    Provided the inletting is square with the stock centreline, being out by a small amount will make no difference to the appearance or function of the stock. On the other hand, having the two sides not lining up exactly will be really easy to see, and will require a bunch of sanding to fix.
    Danny likes this.

  6. #6
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Cheers mate, appreciate the input.

  7. #7
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    Lucky bugger, I'm doing mine with the saber / hand saw and getting out with the files then sandpaper!!
    Steve123 likes this.

  8. #8
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    Q has the knowledge here

    I did it by machining both sides of the blank (inside first) then the outsides, but that requires 4x indexing a blank which is a bit of a pain.

  9. #9
    MaW
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    A few ways, the easiest is probably drilling through your piece in a few places and in to your sacrificial table (assuming you are using a router with one) will allow you to flip the piece and secure with pins in the same place.

    You just have to make sure in your cam software that things are right based on flipping. The other which works well is to machine half and cut it out of your timber as a rectangle. Then pocket that sized rectangle in to your table where you can tap in your piece to machine the other side.

    I know what I mean, hope it makes sense on written down

    Depending on your software it can automate parts of your two sided machining to make things easier.

  10. #10
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaW View Post
    A few ways, the easiest is probably drilling through your piece in a few places and in to your sacrificial table (assuming you are using a router with one) will allow you to flip the piece and secure with pins in the same place.

    You just have to make sure in your cam software that things are right based on flipping. The other which works well is to machine half and cut it out of your timber as a rectangle. Then pocket that sized rectangle in to your table where you can tap in your piece to machine the other side.

    I know what I mean, hope it makes sense on written down

    Depending on your software it can automate parts of your two sided machining to make things easier.
    I know exactly what you mean.
    Thanks.
    I use solidcam/solidworks.
    I use to run a 5 axis machine(old job), making the tool paths won't be a problem.

    The cnc table is a vacuum/t-slot combination. I better not put holes in it.

    Think I will clamp down some mdf and drill the dowel holes into that.
    I'll have to bolt or clamp the stock down aswell.
    Do you think mdf will be strong enough to keep the dowels in place?

  11. #11
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Looking at a grade 1 walnut blank from these guys.
    http://www.nzwalnut.co.nz/

  12. #12
    Member SlowElliot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 223nut View Post
    Lucky bugger, I'm doing mine with the saber / hand saw and getting out with the files then sandpaper!!
    I wish I had the skills to do that.
    Completing such as a task "wood" be very satisfying.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowElliot View Post
    I wish I had the skills to do that.
    Completing such as a task "wood" be very satisfying.
    Don't think I do either but what the hell it's only going to cost me a few evenings work

 

 

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