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Thread: DIY parkerizing

  1. #16
    Member canross's Avatar
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    Three tricks that'll help - buy a few candy thermometers and place them strategically around the tank - your tank temps will vary depending on how you heat it, where the elements are etc. You can get cheap candy thermometers or a multi input digital thermometer. Sounds like you're handy so anything that lets you assess temp across the bath is helpful.

    First used a propane heated tank which was great - propane added to a black pipe with a venturi for air mix, and thin slit cuts perpendicular to the pipe length for burners led to excellent flame distribution. A stainless tray with fine sand under the main tank gives very nice heat distribution at the cost of quick response to temperature adjustment.

    Last is to do a test run in an old stainless pot on some small parts. Much faster and easier to learn, adapt etc.
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  2. #17
    Member canross's Avatar
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    Just saw you've already got the PID with thermocouple... still pays to know that the phosphate solution is at the proper temp everywhere for even finish. I realize this' a cheap project, but a multi channel PID with multiple thermocouples and heater elements would be very cool.

  3. #18
    Member Dan88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canross View Post
    Just saw you've already got the PID with thermocouple... still pays to know that the phosphate solution is at the proper temp everywhere for even finish. I realize this' a cheap project, but a multi channel PID with multiple thermocouples and heater elements would be very cool.
    That would be a cool setup. I was planning on gently stirring the tank(no splashes) until the PID controller had settled to a constant temp before immersion of the part.

    I have an old machete that might get tested before any gun part, or some old tools to test the mix out.

    Sent from my SM-A505GN using Tapatalk

  4. #19
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    Where did you get the chemicals from and how much did it cost?

  5. #20
    Member Dan88's Avatar
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    I got the phosphoric acid I got from a place called clorogene in wellington, about $60.
    The manganese dioxide I got online from a pottery supply place, 2.5kg cost about $30

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  6. #21
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    Thank you

  7. #22
    Member Dan88's Avatar
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    Hi all not much progress so far, got side tracked knocking out a wall and making new breakfast bar etc.

    So one piece of info I can't seem to find out is what to do with the interior of the action?
    The barrel is plugged so you dont parkerize the inside of that, but does it matter about the inside of the action or the bolt for that matter.
    You are micro etching the surface of the metal, but is it enough to affect tolerances etc?
    Or does it actually reduce friction since both surfaces would be microscopically coated in oil trapped in the etched surface.

    Everyone feel free to throw in their 2 cents please, especially any gunsmiths or metal finishing techs.

    Cheers


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  8. #23
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    There's a grease I thought that you coat where you dont want to parkerise, there was an article on this in one of the old-time gunsmiths books. I'll have a look and see if I can find it...

  9. #24
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    Ahhh, yeah def. looks like the recommendation is to keep the solution away from surfaces where dimensions are critical, as the process adds iron material in a crystalline structure so you could find you need to remove what you've put on to get things to fit.

    I can't put my finger on the scan of the parkerizing article I have it will be on a portable drive most likely. Looking at it, the modern idea is to not allow grease into the bath which would make sense - the idea was to use electrical tape wrapped tightly around parts but it doesn't help in the case of a raceway or dovetail. Wondering about something like a high-temp epoxy which you can chip out at the end of the job, basically a cast-in-place dam as it were?

  10. #25
    Member Dan88's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info, I had been thinking of the electrical tape idea, tho as you say it wouldnt work so well on internal surfaces, i had wondered about some type of modeling clay?
    Pack it in and then scrape it out afterwards. Could also be used to plug the breach and barrel.
    I'll look into hi temp modeling clay

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