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Thread: How to make a D-type reamer to chamber a barrel

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  1. #1
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    @SixtyTen: that helps to clear the process a bit more. Pictures would be good. What about the section of the reamer when it goes from the pilot to the beginning of what will be the leade? And is it possible to make a removable pilot?

  2. #2
    Member SixtyTen's Avatar
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    A removable pilot is not really required unless you are going to be chambering multiple barrels with variable bore sizes. For a one off job, just sizing the pilot to the barrel on hand is fine. I tend to make a seperate plug before making the reamer, so that I can figure out exactly what pilot size I need, then I dont have to test fit the barrel while trying to make the reamer as I know what size to hit. You could do a removable pilot by just making the pilot section longer with a step down, then you can drill and tap the end of the reamer for a retaining screw, then make the bushing.

    I make my pilots quite long and cut the flat section onto the pilot so that I have a place to measure half thickness. I do the same at the other end with a parallel section and cut onto that a ways. I then make a note of those diameters before I start cutting it in half so that I can tell exactly how far I need to go. This will also allow you to see if you are cutting the flat section with a taper and be able to correct it.

    I still cant upload photos. Iv played with the settings and poked around, but the photos simply wont upload. Anyone know why this is happening?
    akaroa1 and takbok like this.

  3. #3
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    @rupert I'm just about to make a reamer for 32-20 and because its a one off I might do it as a D reamer
    I have a long piece of H2 tool steel and was going to make it out of that. Although it needs a very difference hardening and tempering process
    So silver steel might be the quick and easy option

    Maybe we should get together some time and do some work on this ? I have H2 if its any use to you
    Would 32-20 be any use for your project ?
    My one is to re chamber a 32 rimfire Stevens 044 1/2 to 32-20 and convert the breech block to center fire

    cheers
    Micky Duck likes this.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the really good instructions @gundoc and @SixtyTen. I'm going to give this a go for cutting a bullet mould and maybe for a chamber at some stage.

  5. #5
    Member SixtyTen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takbok View Post
    Thanks for the really good instructions @gundoc and @SixtyTen. I'm going to give this a go for cutting a bullet mould and maybe for a chamber at some stage.
    Just remember to remove as much material from the chamber or bullet mold before trying to use the reamer. For molds, I typically draw up the shape I want in cad and then make a drawing showing the depth to drill for about 5 or 6 different drill bits, so I end up with a stepped hole just a little smaller than the bullet, but more or less the same shape. This reduces the work needing to be done by the reamer to a minimum.
    Its not so important if making aluminium bullet molds, but I made some swaging dies from 4140 steel, so the stepped hole was a necessity.

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    Sitting in the v block on the surface grinder and ready to go

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    SixtyTen likes this.

  7. #7
    MSL
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    thats a fine looking surface grinder


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    thats a fine looking surface grinder


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes it is @MSL
    And look at that nicely dressed stone

 

 

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