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Thread: How to make a D-type reamer to chamber a barrel

  1. #16
    Member SixtyTen's Avatar
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    A removable pilot is not really required unless you are going to be chambering multiple barrels with variable bore sizes. For a one off job, just sizing the pilot to the barrel on hand is fine. I tend to make a seperate plug before making the reamer, so that I can figure out exactly what pilot size I need, then I dont have to test fit the barrel while trying to make the reamer as I know what size to hit. You could do a removable pilot by just making the pilot section longer with a step down, then you can drill and tap the end of the reamer for a retaining screw, then make the bushing.

    I make my pilots quite long and cut the flat section onto the pilot so that I have a place to measure half thickness. I do the same at the other end with a parallel section and cut onto that a ways. I then make a note of those diameters before I start cutting it in half so that I can tell exactly how far I need to go. This will also allow you to see if you are cutting the flat section with a taper and be able to correct it.

    I still cant upload photos. Iv played with the settings and poked around, but the photos simply wont upload. Anyone know why this is happening?
    akaroa1 and takbok like this.

  2. #17
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    @rupert I'm just about to make a reamer for 32-20 and because its a one off I might do it as a D reamer
    I have a long piece of H2 tool steel and was going to make it out of that. Although it needs a very difference hardening and tempering process
    So silver steel might be the quick and easy option

    Maybe we should get together some time and do some work on this ? I have H2 if its any use to you
    Would 32-20 be any use for your project ?
    My one is to re chamber a 32 rimfire Stevens 044 1/2 to 32-20 and convert the breech block to center fire

    cheers
    Micky Duck likes this.

  3. #18
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    Thanks for the really good instructions @gundoc and @SixtyTen. I'm going to give this a go for cutting a bullet mould and maybe for a chamber at some stage.

  4. #19
    Member SixtyTen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takbok View Post
    Thanks for the really good instructions @gundoc and @SixtyTen. I'm going to give this a go for cutting a bullet mould and maybe for a chamber at some stage.
    Just remember to remove as much material from the chamber or bullet mold before trying to use the reamer. For molds, I typically draw up the shape I want in cad and then make a drawing showing the depth to drill for about 5 or 6 different drill bits, so I end up with a stepped hole just a little smaller than the bullet, but more or less the same shape. This reduces the work needing to be done by the reamer to a minimum.
    Its not so important if making aluminium bullet molds, but I made some swaging dies from 4140 steel, so the stepped hole was a necessity.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundoc View Post
    Making a D reamer is a piece of cake. Start with a piece of 10 or 12mm silver steel and a good accurate drawing. Face and centre drill the rod then extend it from the chuck about 75mm to give you working space and support the centered end with a live centre. Turn a pilot about 25mm long that is a neat running fit in the bore then work your way back turning the leed, case and rim to a very high finish about 0.01mm above the desired finish diameter and bring it to size with a fine file and fine grade (400 then 1000 grit) wet & dry paper and oil. Evenly heat the entire length of the turned portion to a good cherry red and vertically quench in oil (SAE 30 is fine, swirling could cause the hardening to be more on one side and cause warping, hence the vertical plunge). With a good bench grinder a pail of cold water, neatly grind the entire length of the leed, case, and rim to exactly half of the diameter, (D shape) quenching frequently to avoid overheating. A light flick across the ground face with a fine slip stone and the reamer is good to go. I recommend boring or drill the chamber to within 0.5mm of the finished size before reaming. I prefer to grind a square on the end of the shaft and use a tap wrench supported by the live centre on the lathe rather than using power as you would with a proper reamer. Use plenty of good cutting oil and withdraw the reamer and clean the reamer and the bore frequently to avoid swarf picking up and grooving the chamber. Go to whoa in less than a hour!
    @gundoc

    Just wondered is you temper after heat treating ?

    I finally had some time and turned up a 32-20 D reamer this afternoon
    Heat treated it
    Took the magnetic table off my surface grinder and sorted out a V block and hold downs
    It should be a nice easy way to grind a perfect D

    Will wait until I know about tempering it or not

    Cheers

  6. #21
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    Sitting in the v block on the surface grinder and ready to go

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    SixtyTen likes this.

  7. #22
    MSL
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    thats a fine looking surface grinder


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    thats a fine looking surface grinder


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes it is @MSL
    And look at that nicely dressed stone

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaroa1 View Post
    @gundoc

    Just wondered is you temper after heat treating ?

    I finally had some time and turned up a 32-20 D reamer this afternoon
    Heat treated it
    Took the magnetic table off my surface grinder and sorted out a V block and hold downs
    It should be a nice easy way to grind a perfect D

    Will wait until I know about tempering it or not

    Cheers
    Yes, you must temper after hardening and before grinding. I temper reamers only to light straw colour, still hard enough to cut but some of the brittleness avoided. Care must be taken to avoid heating the steel during grinding (ie; watch carefully and quench often). Tempering after grinding can cause warpage.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cordite View Post
    Problem is centering the chamber according to the bore. I understand chamber reamers need a special flexible holder when used in a lathe to allow them to find their own way according to their bore pilot. Sure you can use a boring bar to make a chamber, IF you have the barrel perfectly centered in the 4-jaw chuck. It must be centered according to the bore and not to the outside of the barrel.

    There are also plenty, cheap, straight reamers on Ali Express.
    We have a floating chamber reamer holder we usually use....but you don't absolutely need one,we have a smaller tool room lathe that is very accurate and it cuts a nice tight chamber with just a regular chuck.It all depends how accurate your lathe is.

 

 

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