Remington 700 Bullpup chassis build

Right... Ive had quite a few messages and questions in regards to my Bullpup stock on my 6.5 Creedmoor (featured in my "6.5 Creedmoor load development thread") and promised a few of you some more details.

https://preview.ibb.co/nv0aHz/20180627_085719.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/e3mFHz/20180718_145641.jpg

Love them or hate them, bullpups have always been my thing. Moving the action as far rearward as possible and reducing the overall balance and length is one benefit but there are many others.

This build started as an idea about 15 years ago and just never got the tool time.. Ive had a piece of laminate sitting in the racks for just as long, just waiting its turn.
The design evolved over the years and even more once it was on my workbench but my original drawings were for my Remington 788 in .338 Whisper I had at the time.

When I recently picked up my new Rem 700 in 6.5 Creedmoor with its unwieldy suppressed 24" barrel I got motivated to have a crack at building the bullpup stock for it.

Now.. rather than a big long winded build thread Im just going to post a bunch of pics I took on my phone as I progressed. If you have any questions Ill try answer them. Sorry some of the pics are pretty crap and I didnt document everything but regardless, there's a few to look at.

Inletting:

https://preview.ibb.co/ntPo4e/20180531_132231.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/kuosVK/20180531_142228.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/kE1qHz/20180531_171058.jpg


Additional shaping and pre-fitting parts:

https://preview.ibb.co/gMigPe/20180605_123613.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mMUzAK/20180605_134207.jpg


Forward trigger block and linkage:
Triggers are almost always the downfall and questionable parts on bullpups with the inevitable linkage set ups, but Im very happy with the way this one operates.
Ive built quite a few PCPs in bullpup stocks so learned a bit about trigger linkage angles etc along the way that got implemented on this build. The trigger is fully adjustable in every way you could think. While it still has a std Xmark Remington trigger I have worked slightly so that it had a 2.5lbs crisp break but adding the linkage actually adds leverage making the trigger very very light if you wanted to set it that way. I added a slotted trigger shoe on the stainless steel linkage bar that can be set up as a "first stage" of trigger movement which gave it a nice two stage feel once tuned.

The forward trigger block is also fully adjustable for weight, position in trigger guard, first stage pull length and over travel.
I have it set with about a 2mm first stage light and smooth take up which comes to a noticeable stop and then a 1.5lbs crisp break. I left the factory Remington safety catch in place and adjusted the bedding block design to work around it.

https://preview.ibb.co/nLVpAK/20180605_192341.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/fZ1wqK/20180607_160019.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mgHaje/20180607_175401.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/eP2KAK/20180607_175441.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/eLQjcz/20180607_175548.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/du4AHz/20180607_182855.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/kNgeAK/20180607_205028.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/m1B1Pe/20180607_205037.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/d26eAK/20180607_205104.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/noUSxz/20180614_102514.jpg

Accuracy international pattern mag release:

https://preview.ibb.co/jbPVje/20180612_164300.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/n3CuAK/20180612_170325.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/cE5gqK/20180614_152926.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/fJGbPe/20180614_103211.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/nmgzcz/20180614_103220.jpg

More prefits, barrel shortened to 20" and rethreaded and cutting up AR15 accessories to work with the chassis:

https://preview.ibb.co/kGKwPe/20180614_163158.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/bSv34e/20180614_181134.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/hU2uAK/20180620_154018.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mAnGPe/20180620_154047.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/kOV0Hz/20180620_163024.jpg

Gelcoat, filling and prepping for finishing with a spray suede texture coating to look softer more like a synthetic stock and then several coats of Duracoat matt black:

https://preview.ibb.co/nCjSxz/20180618_202912.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/ij0d4e/20180619_092220.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/myWwqK/20180619_102232.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/m2gkje/20180619_184852.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/fMdnxz/20180619_192803.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mKVBPe/20180620_074006.jpg

Assembling completed chassis:

https://preview.ibb.co/nnx0je/20180620_085714.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/jnAxVK/20180620_085721.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/hE20je/20180620_101435.jpg

I dont really have any good pics of it in its current state as I have made a few changes and have a few more to make but will add them here once done.
The butt pad is just crappy plastic but I imported a few of the good thick rubber ones from XLR chassis USA, they are not quite as tall so when I get time in the workshop Ill make an adjustable mounting plate to suit and ditch the shitty bulky plastic one. I will shorten the LOP a bit too.

https://preview.ibb.co/ho2pcz/20180627_090619.jpg

Here it is along side my Rem 700P LTR for length comparison which also has a 20" barrel.
The 6.5 pup is currently 800mm long to the muzzle but will drop to 780mm with the new rubber but pad.

https://preview.ibb.co/irmAje/20180627_091204.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/nLDqje/20180627_091258.jpg

Nice work. How rigid is the connection between the action and the AR handguard upon which the scope is mounted? Wouldn't that be a critical factor?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stretch

Nice work. How rigid is the connection between the action and the AR handguard upon which the scope is mounted? Wouldn't that be a critical factor?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

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Thank you,
Yes you are right and I dont have many pics of that area but will try to explain how I executed a rigid scope mount.
As it is a chassis not a stock as such, all components had to work in and be locked together. The scope is quite heavy and the AR handguard is thin 6061 T6 and has flex so needed reinforcing and multiple mounting bolts.

The handguard has a custom bushing at the rear like an AR15 barrel nut that fits over the barrel and up against the recoil lug. The handguard bolts to that bush through the sides and underneath.
There is a second press fit bush at the front of the hand guard that holds it central to the barrel.
The action and handguard is bedded in Devcon as a single unit to the laminate bedding block with alloy pillars in 4 locations, two in the action and two in the underside of the handguard. Finally I have milled a stabilizing bar for the top of the rail to stop any flex or twisting, it bolts up on the top front action screws where you would normally mount a scope rail and extends forward under the scope and bolts into the handguard.
It actually shoots better in this chassis than it did in the MDT LSS but that could also have to do with accuracy nodes and harmonics after I shortened the barrel 4 inches.
The scope sits up there rock solid and there is no POI change from cold bore shot to "cook an egg on your suppressor smoking hot" ..

This is the top rail stabilizer being machined, it was not in the first photos as it was duracoated and added later.

https://preview.ibb.co/kG6T4e/20180815_202246.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/m01jcz/20180815_202254.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/iZTuAK/Untitled_1.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/cwQzAK/20180831_135323.jpg

Clever prick! :thumbsup:

How do you release bolt?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

How do you release bolt?

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Use heaps of 2209 MEM5158 ;)

well done, looks great

fantastic job

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gibo

Use heaps of 2209 MEM5158 ;)

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Ha ha.. you first.. :D
@Ryan_Songhurst The bolt release was going to be on the underside, just an extended button on a return spring that contacted the bolt release button in front of the trigger but it didnt align well with the alloy stock frame holes and would have looked out of place. Instead I improvised with a simple access hole in the side of the bedding block that lines up with the bolt release and can be activated with the tip of a bullet or similar.(if you are a .270 owner you could use the tip of your fornicating tool aka "customs officer")

https://preview.ibb.co/jH3fZe/20180905_102206.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mN3fZe/20180905_102515.jpg

Something else Ive added after the pics were taken is a 4" KeyMod alloy picatinny rail with a quick release sling mount. It works well with an Atlas bipod.

https://preview.ibb.co/nC9CEe/20180905_102616.jpg

https://preview.ibb.co/mcPUue/20180905_103055.jpg

How much does the bullpup weigh inclusive of scope and accessories?

That’s awesome.
Very nicely finished.
Thanks for taking the time to post it up. Well done !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Flyblown

How much does the bullpup weigh inclusive of scope and accessories?

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The bare rifle in chassis weighs the same as the std 20" heavy barrel Remington 700 Tactical in the Hogue stock at 7.5lbs.
It balances much better though with its COG at the pistol grip not the fore grip. It makes for very steady off hand shooting.

With the glass, empty 10rnd mag, suppressor and bipod its 12.3lbs. Not a total lightweight but it was always going to be my long range rig and needed some heft to it.
Its very light in the recoil department with no muzzle lift, something else this bullpup platform excels at.

Here's a quick vid looking at the trigger linkage, cycling on the bench while keeping eyes on target, and its first live fire testing.

https://youtu.be/H21DGX3377M

Puke down? :D

Awesome work, I always wondered how the trigger was done in this layout.

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

Nicely done.

thats really cool.

What is bolt manipulation like?

can i ask why you went for a single rail trigger remote not a double ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beavis

What is bolt manipulation like?

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very easy, watch the vid..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gonetropo

can i ask why you went for a single rail trigger remote not a double ?

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Less friction points and really no need for a heavier component. The sing single linkage works perfectly.

I wonder about threading an extension on where the bolt knob would go, so that you can cycle it up by the grip.

Wingman you really are very clever, cunning and have thought of everything 10/10

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beavis

I wonder about threading an extension on where the bolt knob would go, so that you can cycle it up by the grip.

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thats what I was thinking too, Id say because of the turning force from a distance the further you go from where it is without a form of support it would twist like a MOFO

Personally Im fine with working the bolt where it is as I have a lot of bullpups in this layout and Im more familiar with a rearward bot than a forward one. It take no time to get used to.

Here's an option for those that just couldn't live with the bolt where it is.. :thumbsup:

https://youtu.be/jzJdMc0Mpyg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wingman

Personally Im fine with working the bolt where it is as I have a lot of bullpups in this layout and Im more familiar with a rearward bot than a forward one. It take no time to get used to.

Here's an option for those that just couldn't live with the bolt where it is.. :thumbsup:

https://youtu.be/jzJdMc0Mpyg

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That's essentially what I had in mind. I've never been a massive fan of bullpup auto loading rifles, but the idea of shortening up a bolt gun with a long heavy barrel is definitely interesting.

This is awesome, well done Wingman

Well done man. this is a bool build. In the video, the bolt cycles better on this bullpup set up I reckon. out of the way of the scope with that high bolt lift.

Ive been favouring my Grendel and .223 AI lately so the Creedmore pup has been neglected.
Due to the frequent evening thunderstorms and higher winds it was however perfect for a late afternoon lay about on the hill top waiting for potential freezer filling reds to wander out of the tree line for a feed of fresh green grass.

https://i.ibb.co/cLZsYVD/20181214-170448.jpg

I found a shady spot under a tree and had a relaxing lay about while ranging various animal tracks on the bush line and getting familiar with the turrets and Strelok data for my hunting load. There was a fairly strong but consistent breeze from about 2-3 oclock depending on what angle Id potentually make a shot and a 3 degrees decline from my vantage point down to the bush line.
The longest shot I could make form my position was 460 yards and the shortest which almost never happens is 190 yards.
The area is thick with hares, goats, pheasants and turkeys which I spent 3 hours watching and dialling in on to stay familiar with the various ranges and pass the time on a lovely warm evening. It was pretty hard not to pull the trigger on a few stinky goads passing through but it was not the target species tonight.
There was about an hour were the sun was directly in my scope which wasn't ideal and made it very difficult to see the bush line but I wasnt leaving my comfy shady spot and I figured the deer wouldnt venture out until the shade cast a bit further form the bush line anyway.

https://i.ibb.co/0F4DBqr/20181216-184504.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/HNXR4rv/20181216-181258.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bNkBrvP/20181216-184114.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LgfTNFM/20181216-184421.jpg

8:10pm and I spotted a red hind right on the tree edge keeping cover as she walked and grazed further from me up the tree line. I dialled her in and watched her for another 20 mins hoping she might have company but it was getting late and she was about to disappear over a small rise on the edge of the bush with a small creek behind.
I could only see the top of her back and head sticking up so I ranged her at 343 yards and dialled it in.
Holding on her head I sent a 130gr Seirra TMK att 2910fps across the gully, I heard a solid smack but there was a large kahikatea tree about 15 yards behind her so it may have been that impact I heard. She dropped down behind the rise and out of sight so a follow up shot was never on the cards.

I packed up from my comfy spot and headed down to recover.
I found the spot she was but she had dropped down the steep river bank and landed at the bottom. It certainly wasnt the easiest recovery getting back up to the paddocks but I got her dressed for the trip home and had her hanging and skinned in time for a cold one before bed.

https://i.ibb.co/Ht1ZDBj/20181216-195958.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/grzJWrw/20181216-202540.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6yXyYV1/20181216-204447.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vm97XpS/20181216-204832.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jTJs9Cm/20181217-003159.jpg

The shot placement was spot on with my Strelok data and the 6.5 did its usual job of almost ignoring the wind.
There was a pin hole entry wound on the opposite side of these pics which show two small exit holes about an inch lower, everything in between was mush and the skull and jaw bones were just fragged but still all held together with the skin.
A much tider kill than some of the goats that have taken one to the Mellon inside 200y. The Sierra TMK has been a good all round performer in the Creedmore, I really should make time to test the 107gr TMKs I have loaded for the Grendel too.

A very satisfying single cold bore shot after a relaxing afternoon lay about out of the days summer heat.
Ill return over the next few days to clean up some more goats.

@Wingman whats your thoughts on those scopes? I took a punt on one a few months back, put it on my 300wsm and it seems to be holding up pretty well. Have only dialed to 600 so far but it was spot on....i was so impressed I grabbed another for the 7mm08ai

Yeah Im a fan.. tested quite a few and have not been disappointed.. it tracks perfectly and the mil mil set up is way ahead of so many other brands that still mix moa turrets with mil reticles..
The German Schott glass is bright and clear and the reticles are very usable for my kind of shooting.
I have 8 TVOs now of various models and none have given me any probs. Great value for money.