Good god @ChrisF. I like you reviews of scopes and things but you appear to have a hard on for a rifle you have ZERO experience with and regularly bang on about it. Come up with some real proof for once aye.
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Good god @ChrisF. I like you reviews of scopes and things but you appear to have a hard on for a rifle you have ZERO experience with and regularly bang on about it. Come up with some real proof for once aye.
It's funny 'cos there's people on the internet quoting his posts about a plastic washer holding the action together or some such as fact
Gimp, if it is on the interweb somewhere it HAS to be true :D
Had a think about your Leupy question, you might need to use a bit of duct tape before sending it in for warrantee repairs... On second thought, maybe you should buy a mega roll :thumbsup:
Easy peezy....
Buy headspace gauges for calibers.. Get barrels externally threaded and fit Savage style barrel nuts.
Screw onto gauge, do up external nut and nip - job done
Mitch Max has a long tube nut for doing the barrels up on his tube guns.. Could go that way or just a std savage spanner
Yup, savage barrel nuts are cool.
The "varmint" barrel I have is pretty chunky, so you'd probably end up with a shoulder and tiny gap.
The barrels aren't pre-fit, so more likely to go with machine to correct dimensions and then tighten to known torque with witness marks as backup.
Still investigating options for lug : pin it, external cradle for alignment or notch action and use savage style lug ?
Just tig tac it to the receiver
Why not? It's just to stop it rotating and keep it in position.
A dab of silfos on the receiver side under the action wood do same job
There are a number of ways to do it better, but it's a 788 and $500 to get machine work done on 2 barrels and get fancy with it... You've got limited factors before you start
Existing barrel should not need rechambering, maybe a tweak or 2 on tennon and shoulder to get headspace ok for specific torque.
Cradle would be some fly-cutting on a block to get receiver profile, drill hole for front action screw, and mill slot for lug, no need to start messing with the action.
Barrel #2 was $100
Re thread, chamber etc $250 (only part of the build that I am paying commercial rates for)
Materials for action wrench & cradle $50 ?
Machine time for wrench and cradle $100 ?
Barrel vice I can do from some oak and bolts I have in the workshop.
Only thing left is go/no-go gauges for both calibers as a safety check after swopping.
Visa card=Blaser!!! Job done:D
bloody shit phone