Thread: What did I do wrong?

Hey team. First attempt at checkering. Going ok, it’s harder than I thought it would be! Had a few whoopsies where I have strayed off the guide line, mostly because I was going too fast I think. I’m not too fussed, this is a hunting stock so will get dings etc as I use it, and I am learning as I go
My most annoying mistake is as per the pic. I have managed to curve the lines around the corner of the stock. I’m not sure how I managed it, as I thought I was using the guide ok, but clearly not well enough. How can I avoid this in the future? The other end of the line is still straight so not sure how this one got so bendy. This is the end I started the line from, not sure if that played into it?

mate..as the bishop said to the actress..."nice curves"

Better than i could do,deer wont notice.

Well, based on my vast experience of having checkered precisely one stock ... I think it's natural that as you take parallel checkered lines from a flat surface across a curve, the lines themselves become curved. If you want to force them to become visually straight, the spacing changes subtly. In part, I think it's to do with the checkering cutter being rocked over to keep both the cutter and follower engaged on the surface, but the whole length of the resulting line is then viewed from a single viewpoint which doesn't take this into account - hence the appearance of curvature. At least that kind of makes sense in my head...

Anyway, your example seems to be particularly pronounced because of the compounding effect of spacing one line from the next without making any correction. What I found helped was that after I had roughed in each new line I would straighten it before starting the next one. A checkering jointer is supposed to be the correct tool for this, but I found that triangle and square section needle files - used carefully and at a low angle to the surface - worked well for correcting any minor wobbles and curves. They've got a much longer effective cutting length than standard checkering cutters. Do this before taking the line to full depth.

This is my set of needle files and I highly recommend them - well formed fine teeth that come to beautifully sharp corners.

http://https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/m...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hopefully that helps, at least until the proper checkering experts come along.

Here's one panel in progress, where I straightened each line as I went. The stock surface is not as curved as your example though.





I don't have a photo to hand of the panel cut to full depth and finished.

Edit: Actually, now that I've posted the photos I see it looks like the bottom lines are curved. They're not actually curved with the stock in hand, but it shows how much the viewing angle can change the perception.

Originally Posted by Trout

Better than i could do,deer wont notice.

You are not wrong! Learning a new skill though I want to see how I went wrong so I don’t make the same mistake on the next one

Originally Posted by PaulNZ

Well, based on my vast experience of having checkered precisely one stock ... I think it's natural that as you take parallel checkered lines from a flat surface across a curve, the lines themselves become curved. If you want to force them to become visually straight, the spacing changes subtly. In part, I think it's to do with the checkering cutter being rocked over to keep both the cutter and follower engaged on the surface, but the whole length of the resulting line is then viewed from a single viewpoint which doesn't take this into account - hence the appearance of curvature. At least that kind of makes sense in my head...

Anyway, your example seems to be particularly pronounced because of the compounding effect of spacing one line from the next without making any correction. What I found helped was that after I had roughed in each new line I would straighten it before starting the next one. A checkering jointer is supposed to be the correct tool for this, but I found that triangle and square section needle files - used carefully and at a low angle to the surface - worked well for correcting any minor wobbles and curves. They've got a much longer effective cutting length than standard checkering cutters. Do this before taking the line to full depth.

This is my set of needle files and I highly recommend them - well formed fine teeth that come to beautifully sharp corners.

http://https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/m...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hopefully that helps, at least until the proper checkering experts come along.

Good advice thanks mate! I didn’t notice they were all curved haha
Will see how it looks when I’m done.
Also your link didn’t work

Originally Posted by Delphus

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Also your link didn’t work

Huh, you're right. Sorry about that. It was just a link to a Trademe auction, but it's Bahco set number 2-470-16-1-0. Google that and it'll come up if you're interested.