Thread: Winchester M70 XTR FWT .308 Build ALL ADVICE WELCOME!!!!!!

Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed

Ha, strictly speaking, I should probably have said cartridge, but .270... you could turn yourself blind and/or mad reading all the banter back and forth about .270 Vs .308 on here... all the others are not really worth considering, eh.... apart from .223 - I have .223, .270, and .308, so covered all arguments.

That's really good to know, my groups have started wandering a bit, so might have a look at whether the forestock might be in contact. Thanks!

"Other Calibre"? you spelt Superior wrong. I'm a big .270 fan, Does everything the .308 does but better

I have a stock standard Featherweight in .308. Cut 2 inches off the barrel for close in bush work, put a Leupold 4-12 scope on it. I shot a red hind at 425 metres. Every deer I had in my sights went down with 1 shot: 150 grains for reds, 100 grain HP for falllow. These are a great firearm.

Shit, careful mate, you'll start a fight with that sort of talk! Ha ha!

Hey mate, You have done a great job on this! I also have a model 70 ''lightweight'' 270 inherited from my grand father and after seeing your post youve inspired me to give it some love. How did you tidy up and sand the checkering without damaging it? I didnt realise you could flute the bolts on these but thats gone straight on the wishlist! How many hours do you think you have put into this roughly? Cheers

Originally Posted by TroyMclean

Hey mate, You have done a great job on this! I also have a model 70 ''lightweight'' 270 inherited from my grand father and after seeing your post youve inspired me to give it some love. How did you tidy up and sand the checkering without damaging it? I didnt realise you could flute the bolts on these but thats gone straight on the wishlist! How many hours do you think you have put into this roughly? Cheers

with checkering I use a varnish stripper and a soft tooth brush then linseed dont do much more than that great believer in letting a rifle show some wear gives the stock character

Originally Posted by Barry the hunter

with checkering I use a varnish stripper and a soft tooth brush then linseed dont do much more than that great believer in letting a rifle show some wear gives the stock character

Your not wrong there, best part about a wood stock is having a few battle scars

Originally Posted by TroyMclean

Hey mate, You have done a great job on this! I also have a model 70 ''lightweight'' 270 inherited from my grand father and after seeing your post youve inspired me to give it some love. How did you tidy up and sand the checkering without damaging it? I didnt realise you could flute the bolts on these but thats gone straight on the wishlist! How many hours do you think you have put into this roughly? Cheers

cheers, Awesome to hear, they are beautiful rifles, worth "saving" and even better in the world's best caliber (.270) Resene paint stripper applied generously then wrapped in gladwrap for a few hours then a stiff brush, fine chisels to tidy up stubborn bits. Greystone guns now has a jig to flute the bolts so should be cheaper than what i paid as i had to pay for the jig. Probably 20-30 hours i think. well worth it

Hi William thanks for the reply, ive been gawking over your photos all weekend and making a plan in my head for my one.. silly question but do you feel that the pillars and bedding made a big difference? I love the story the stock tells but I also would like to replace the butt pad and free float the barrel hence maybe just giving the whole stock an overhaul, I intend to replace the old redfeild 2-7 with a modern dial up scope and use this as my main hunting rig so getting it shooting right will be important. Do you have any other tips or advice for me before i start down this road? Last thing what colour scheme is that cerakote? Cheers Troy

Originally Posted by TroyMclean

Hi William thanks for the reply, ive been gawking over your photos all weekend and making a plan in my head for my one.. silly question but do you feel that the pillars and bedding made a big difference? I love the story the stock tells but I also would like to replace the butt pad and free float the barrel hence maybe just giving the whole stock an overhaul, I intend to replace the old redfeild 2-7 with a modern dial up scope and use this as my main hunting rig so getting it shooting right will be important. Do you have any other tips or advice for me before i start down this road? Last thing what colour scheme is that cerakote? Cheers Troy

Sounds like you are forming a nice plan, cerakote was midnight blue i believe. Pillars are quite important as the wood is quite "soft" on these and if you are going to the effort of bedding (which these need) you might as well do the easy part of putting pillars in. it all made a massive difference to the group size, biggest limiting factor is the caliber for me as i don't hand load. Leupold or Burris scope and send it, find a type of ammo it likes and go from there. my old and current .270 loved precision hunter and nosler 130 grain, but every rifle is different. the recoil pad is another very good upgrade if you value your shoulder, as well as a suppressor to give it some manners. feel free to PM me and i can give you a call if you have other questions. my knowledge is limited but i work with a couple of exceptional gunsmiths.

Thanks mate, will do some more planning etc and take you up on that phone call, cheers

Good job on all your work. My only thought is regarding the bedding. If it was my rifle I would bed the first chamber section of the barrel

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Good job on all your work. My only thought is regarding the bedding. If it was my rifle I would bed the first chamber section of the barrel

Thanks, how far foward would you go?

Originally Posted by Williamfga

Thanks, how far foward would you go?

I used to only bed the first 30 - 40 mm which is the accepted standard, but it seems that now the full chamber length is commonly bedded. I am guessing that this is a bit dependent on shell length. Do a google and see what the benchrest guys are doing.

thats known as the knox area...maybe 1" 2" at very most...