Thread: Rifled chokes

The big hollow base actually produces a degree of stability due to aerodynamic drag. Air in the base is at a lower pressure than that flowing over the slug which tends to hold it straight, or at least a bit wobbly, ad a tiny bit of if spin and it's even better

Hi all what i asked earlier was if you shot true bore [like a rifle ] and not use a plastic cup between shot and bore [shotgun usual ]
12 g barrel id [no restric. choke ] is .729 - .730 and rifled bore is .7205 - .730 bore and grove @ .731
if a cup is used to hold lead ball / pointy like projectile then rifled insert @ muzzle would just as likely just strip the cup off the load and not induce much spin on
projectile .However if a lead ball or shaped projectile coated with a powder coat or Lee Alox and cast to the size of .730 should just act like a regular bullet out of a reg. rifle barrel . my2c

I had a Lee mould I machined out to bore dia, first problem was it ended up nearly as wide as it was long, like a flat wadcutter, I can't imagine it would give good results,
I have a fully rifled barrel for a rem 870

Hi Skeetshooter
did you ever tried any of those " flat wadcutters " via your f/ rifled barrel ? cheers

No I didn't shoot them, I couldn't see how they could possibly work, they looked quite weird

I've still got the mould somewhere

Originally Posted by Skeetshooter

My question still stands, if your slug is in a plastic wad are we saying underr those circumstances the plastic wad takes the spin?
I'd like to see it provern

There's a yotube channel "taofledermous" (or something like that) who load all sorts of homebrew solids. They wad/cup/petal them to impart spin and the slowmow seems to prove that.
You also need an over-powder (card) wad to seal the bore behind the cup/wad so gasses don't get ahead imparting turbluence.
Just like the ol' blackpowder method

NB the OP card/wad would need to be able to escape the hull and quickly seal the forcing cone... so, whatever that diameter is, in your chamber

Lee Keydrive slugs have worked well for me

I had a fabarm sp12 a few years ago I got a rifled choke for it it shot factory seller and ballot slugs to about 4" at 50m not sure if that is good or bad but was consistent. After an outing the choke was a bitch to get out. It seemed to get tighter and tighter, also it seems to foul badly with lead. Now I use an M2 with a fully rifled barrel and sabots.

Try the Lyman 12g slug is extremely accurate in most shotguns I have
Tried it in

Have you tried it thru rifled barrel?, what wad do you use in a rifled barrel? It would be good to reload some to try as factory stuff is quite expensive.