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Thread: What breed should I do the deer dog blueprint with?

  1. #16
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    If you are asking this question you may not be ready for a dog.
    mikee and Andygr like this.

  2. #17
    Member stagstalker's Avatar
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    I have labs and love them. Great family dogs and do everything good. If I was purely chasing big game I would go something more specific for that though. I run labs because i’m also big on duck shooting so the lab is critical for that for me. Plenty of good points already, a nice heading dog would go well. A lot of potential with a good vizsla and gsp etc but you also need to be very good at your handling to get the best from them. A lot of work managing them day to day.
    rugerman and Micky Duck like this.

  3. #18
    Member stagstalker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimms2 View Post
    Any. It's a method of training that works. Few things I disagree with and that I think he does wrong, but no question about the calibre of dogs turned out.
    I happen to have a pure mongrel cross I could sell you, assuming you meet good home/ character requirements
    @mimms2 keen to hear your perspective on what you disagree with. Not for arguments sake but because i’m always interested in listening to different opinions/ideas. Feel free to PM if we don’t want another classic dog opinion argument in the thread.
    Barefoot likes this.

  4. #19
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    my Black Lab Weimaraner cross was a great dog , good on anything and had a better nose than my lab , she would find ducks the Lab missed , climb hedges to retrieve , find indicate / Deer , great watch dog as well, it helped that she had the Lab to teach her, i got most of my dog training methods from old RNR magazines and reading books , the best tip was eat on command and moving the feed bowl close to lawn mower/chain saw so got used to loud noises , also could take bone out of mouth ,important with young kids .
    Micky Duck likes this.

  5. #20
    Member stagstalker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimms2 View Post
    Just a couple of things and no biggie really.
    i let my dogs largely free-range. They can go in cage/chain when needed. Whereas he keeps his either kennelled or working (plenty of people do) but I like to let dogs be dogs and play aswell.

    The other one, in one of his videos he's teaching a "come" or something, but instead of using -one- word ("come", or "here" whatever it was) command he was saying "come, come on, come here, get here" using half a dozen different words.
    Yea fair enough, I agree and do the same pretty much. I have noticed that with him a few times changing small things in the command etc. My pup atm only ever came out of the kennel when I could observe him just to avoid him destroying stuff. As he’s gotten older and learnt the do and donts he’s pretty much out all the time now unless if we go out then he’s back in kennel (5 months old). Yard is fully enclosed though and front of house is seperate to the back where dogs are.
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  6. #21
    Member stagstalker's Avatar
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    Funnily enough after talking about how my pup knows the do and donts at home, I came home from work today and he had chewed the bloody back door matt while my wife wasn’t watching. I blame my wife lol doh!
    rugerman and Micky Duck like this.

  7. #22
    Member Chur Bay's Avatar
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    I'm training my pup with the blueprint. Not exactly as he does it but more or less.
    It's going well. My pup is stopping, sitting, staying and coming to my call. His system definitely seems to work.

    Bea doesn't sleep outside in her kennel though. She sleeps inside in a crate. I agree with what others have said and I don't really like her being cooped up all day.
    rugerman and stagstalker like this.

  8. #23
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    Consider the type of hunting you will do. Terrain and climate. Match your dog to your personality, lifestyle and hunting. I personally prefer female working dogs for biddability. Huntaways and Strong eyed heading dogs. Learn your individual dogs traits and understand and respect your indicator dog in training. My heading dog is way more "softer" to a growl than the huntaway. Analyze your dogs behaviour and how it uses it senses. Use blueprints concepts as far as it works for you and your indicating dog. Hunt one area alot by yourself and then train your dog in that area so you can set it up for success. Always trust your dog - you will be amazed at what it can be capable of....Have fun

  9. #24
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    My lab x gsp is quite a driven dog. I call it the gsp ignorance. Smart enough to know what you want him to do, but there’s always a moment or two where he thinks about how he can test my decision. He requires a fair bit of pressure while working, more so than a dog that might be more biddable and clingy, for lack of a better word. I’ve had two pure gsps in the past and they were much the same.

    They need a lot of work day to day to get the most from them but if you do things right they are very loyal dogs.

    Dogs with high drive ability can be slow to mature so that is something to factor in as well.
    rugerman likes this.

  10. #25
    Member GSP HUNTER's Avatar
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    A good heading dog with a bit of eye and calm temperament. The heading dog crosses Viz, GSP, Lab can be good too, hunting lines are optimal but not essential.
    Mines a wire head gsp X heading dog and its a different beast to train compared to my old GSP, GUS, the GSP's have full on prey drives which can make them hard
    to keep close when they are on game. My Kahu has been much easier to train and is easy going ( most of the time )
    rugerman likes this.

 

 

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