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Thread: bleaching / whitening a skull

  1. #1
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    bleaching / whitening a skull

    what do people recommend and what must i stay away from?
    (I've boiled and water blastered it and it looks good so far)

  2. #2
    Member Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    Blonde hair dye
    #27GANG

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst View Post
    Blonde hair dye
    i was looking at blonde hair dye - it comes in different 'strengths'. very confusing

  4. #4
    Member Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    Get the strongest one ie: has the most peroxide in it. Mix it up, brush it on, leave and hour or so then clean it off
    Scooby likes this.
    #27GANG

  5. #5
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    I'm just in the process of doing one, not quite 100% clean yet before a final degrease and peroxide.

    It can be confusing as sometimes it is described as vol 20 (6%) vol 40 (12%) etc...TRADEME normally has a few examples although they seem pricey this year, I've normally got litre of developer for around $20 from memory.
    Will have a look in a chemist but I think they will be more expensive.

    Once your happy its clean and degreased put some protection around the base of the antlers, get a plastic tray that will fit the skull in and paint it on starting on the inside. Get into all the cavity. Put it somewhere warm, and leave it for 12-24 hours.
    I normally do it before work then wash it off when I get home and let it dry fully before either settling with the result or giving it a bit more..I'm happy with taking a bit longer to get it right.

    Good luck its rewarding and a good way of honouring your efforts on the hill and the animal.
    Scooby and Scouser like this.

  6. #6
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    Ant hill.
    Guns don't kill people - drivers do.

  7. #7
    Member Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    This is a cham skull done with hair dye, have done several with it now

    Name:  20180419_060655.jpg
Views: 237
Size:  4.77 MB
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    #27GANG

  8. #8
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    Used “baquashock” last ones I did. It’s a pool cleaning liquid from farmlands. Was $60 for 5 litres and I used 1 litre of it on 2 tahr skulls.

  9. #9
    Member Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick Hunter View Post
    Used “baquashock” last ones I did. It’s a pool cleaning liquid from farmlands. Was $60 for 5 litres and I used 1 litre of it on 2 tahr skulls.
    Need to be careful with that because it's basically a strong alkali/chlorine and will actually chew into the bone and pit it if made up too strong or for too long
    #27GANG

  10. #10
    Member JoshC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst View Post
    Get the strongest one ie: has the most peroxide in it. Mix it up, brush it on, leave and hour or so then clean it off
    Yes, this is what I do. So easy. If it's not white enough to your liking, do it again.
    Ryan_Songhurst likes this.
    I'm drawn to the mountains and the bush, it's where life is clear, where the world makes the most sense.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smartie View Post
    I'm just in the process of doing one, not quite 100% clean yet before a final degrease and peroxide.

    It can be confusing as sometimes it is described as vol 20 (6%) vol 40 (12%) etc...TRADEME normally has a few examples although they seem pricey this year, I've normally got litre of developer for around $20 from memory.
    Will have a look in a chemist but I think they will be more expensive.

    Once your happy its clean and degreased put some protection around the base of the antlers, get a plastic tray that will fit the skull in and paint it on starting on the inside. Get into all the cavity. Put it somewhere warm, and leave it for 12-24 hours.
    I normally do it before work then wash it off when I get home and let it dry fully before either settling with the result or giving it a bit more..I'm happy with taking a bit longer to get it right.

    Good luck its rewarding and a good way of honouring your efforts on the hill and the animal.
    @Smartie what do you mean by final degrease?

  12. #12
    Member Cordite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbear View Post
    @Smartie what do you mean by final degrease?
    @bigbear

    I may be mistaken, but @Smartie may refer to use of a detergent as any grease/fat may form a protective layer and prevent the peroxide from doing its job.
    Guns don't kill people - drivers do.

  13. #13
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    oven cleaner

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cordite View Post
    @bigbear

    I may be mistaken, but @Smartie may refer to use of a detergent as any grease/fat may form a protective layer and prevent the peroxide from doing its job.
    So give it a wash with warm water and detergent and let it dry before applying peroxide?
    Scooby, JoshC and Smartie like this.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbear View Post
    So give it a wash with warm water and detergent and let it dry before applying peroxide?
    Yep pretty much that , warm/hot wash with detergent to get rid of any remaining fat/grease. I'll chuck up a photo of a few finished ones and a before and after of the one I'm doing now.
    Scooby and bigbear like this.

 

 

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