Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

Terminator Ammo Direct


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 60 of 60
Like Tree22Likes

Thread: Bare shaft tuning

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by silentscope View Post
    Just thought I'd add a bit more on some more findings incase anyone was interested.
    Iv changed my arrow spine from 300 to 340 and found that the bow shot ALOT tighter groups. Back on the paper I also added a couple of extra turns onto my yoke to straighten up the cam which has brought the entire bow into alignment alot better now I am shooting excellent groups right out to 50 yards with both field tips and broad heads. I'm glad I persevered and iv learnt alot about the mechanics to getting them shooting just right in the process and now I'm ready to hit the bush in search of that first blood.
    Personally I don’t waste my time with paper tuning ..you banging a bareshaft with field tip hitting square into a target at 20m then you know the bow is shooting bullets holes without the need for freeback from the paper test ..in order for one to shoot any Broadhead on point the bow needs to be super tuned ..messing with the rest will alleviate some issues for some broadheads but will be shit for others ..super tuned bow will have you hitting x’s out to a 100 easy with any Broadhead ..

    Have my own little archery workshop and tune me own bows make my own threads n arrows ..been out of the game for the last 3 years because of a renovation but slowly working my way back into it again so much to learn


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bowtech Carbon knight & Fuel
    Deer crossing SD hunter micro diameter shafts, pin nocks, fusion 2.1" vanes
    Helix copy broad heads, Wasp drone & hammer broad heads
    Rip Cord drop away
    Scott Rhino release & Octane 5" stabiliser

  2. #2
    Member MarkN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    664
    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwininja View Post
    Personally I don’t waste my time with paper tuning ..you banging a bareshaft with field tip hitting square into a target at 20m then you know the bow is shooting bullets holes without the need for freeback from the paper test ..in order for one to shoot any Broadhead on point the bow needs to be super tuned ..messing with the rest will alleviate some issues for some broadheads but will be shit for others ..super tuned bow will have you hitting x’s out to a 100 easy with any Broadhead ..

    Have my own little archery workshop and tune me own bows make my own threads n arrows ..been out of the game for the last 3 years because of a renovation but slowly working my way back into it again so much to learn Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    As a newbie, I am looking forward to your posts, as you say, so much to learn.

    I've been confined, due to lock down and also waiting on an operation, so I've been learning as much as I can, about archery, from the interweb and the uTubery, but have yet to have hands on experience with my bow (NZPost compulsory delays).

    I am making: a target out of layered banana boxes, a set of stabilisers out of aluminium tube, brass washers and well nuts, and I've assembled a little tool kit with all the things uTube reckons yer need

    I reckon I'll be spending the winter, tuning and getting to know my bow, and practise, practise, practise.

    I hope that new as I am, I'll be able to ask questions here on this board and get input from seasoned bowyers, such as your self.


  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkN View Post
    As a newbie, I am looking forward to your posts, as you say, so much to learn.

    I've been confined, due to lock down and also waiting on an operation, so I've been learning as much as I can, about archery, from the interweb and the uTubery, but have yet to have hands on experience with my bow (NZPost compulsory delays).

    I am making: a target out of layered banana boxes, a set of stabilisers out of aluminium tube, brass washers and well nuts, and I've assembled a little tool kit with all the things uTube reckons yer need

    I reckon I'll be spending the winter, tuning and getting to know my bow, and practise, practise, practise.

    I hope that new as I am, I'll be able to ask questions here on this board and get input from seasoned bowyers, such as your self.

    What kind of bow did you purchase? What part of the country do you call home? And yes unfortunately with archery one has to practice practice practice to get clean releases strengthen the shoulders n back ..
    If you are a rifle shooting as well you will know if you need more power in your archery shot you have to be able to pull so much poundage where as a 308 bullet wether you strong or not as strong you still get 308 worth


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bowtech Carbon knight & Fuel
    Deer crossing SD hunter micro diameter shafts, pin nocks, fusion 2.1" vanes
    Helix copy broad heads, Wasp drone & hammer broad heads
    Rip Cord drop away
    Scott Rhino release & Octane 5" stabiliser

  4. #4
    Member MarkN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    664
    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwininja View Post
    What kind of bow did you purchase? What part of the country do you call home?
    I got something called a Kaimei Qin with arrows &c, I could only afford a cheapy, so I bought what I thought, was a similarly specced to, and what looked like, a good one if it was from the USA.

    Axle-to-Axle:30 5/8"
    Bow Length:35.4"
    Bow Riser Material: High strength aluminum alloy
    Limb material: Reinforced composite
    IBO speed: 329fps
    Draw Length: 16-31.5"
    Brace Weight:7.25"
    Draw weight: 30-70lbs (adjustable)
    Let Off: 80%
    Arrows:30" carbon arrow SP500
    Camo finish

    I think I'll dial it back, to about 45~55 lbs until I get good at it, then make it stronger.

    I'm in Auckland, but I get around the North Island a bit and often see turkeys and hares and even goats and pigs on the roadside verges in the dawn.


    Name:  bought.jpg
Views: 435
Size:  78.5 KB


    Name:  colour-camo.jpg
Views: 321
Size:  35.6 KB

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    2,715
    Doh! I should have thought of that! Arrow spine is a fundamental and underspined arrows are a pretty obvious reason for weird groups. What do the spine charts say is optimal for your setup?

  6. #6
    Member silentscope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Oamaru
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin View Post
    Doh! I should have thought of that! Arrow spine is a fundamental and underspined arrows are a pretty obvious reason for weird groups. What do the spine charts say is optimal for your setup?
    The gold tip chart said 300. And after trying those for a good few weeks I decided to try a 340 which has proven to be a far better choice.
    Bol Tackshin likes this.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    91

    Bare shaft tuning

    I'm likely to be hunting Rabbit, Hare, Turkey, small to medium Goat or Pig. At my age and health, A big Pig or even a moderate Deer would be too much for me to carry any distance and, I would never shoot an animal, for one leg or a trophy.[/QUOTE]

    Unless you smashing a 150 pounder pig and above 200 or 250 would be overkill ..you will be surprised what 400 are capable of ..you won’t need that many grains per inch for the likes of goats, rabbits etc ..you 35lb will do the trick with a 500 spined arrow ..pigs you will get away with 400 ..depends on how much FOC and the entire weight of the arrow (525-600 grains) all up will be enough for the job to smack over a 150 pounder ..
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Kiwininja; 20-05-2020 at 05:20 PM.
    Bowtech Carbon knight & Fuel
    Deer crossing SD hunter micro diameter shafts, pin nocks, fusion 2.1" vanes
    Helix copy broad heads, Wasp drone & hammer broad heads
    Rip Cord drop away
    Scott Rhino release & Octane 5" stabiliser

  8. #8
    Member MarkN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    664
    Thanks for that, yes, the arrow sizing charts, give me a range of draw weight options, for the 500 spine arrows, my draw length is, as calculated several times, 29".

    All the uTubery I've seen, the arrows go through the rabbit, so my main concern is arrow loss, in that situation. NZPost is holding, for eventual delivery, some Judo broad heads and some of what I think are called Meteor broad heads.

    This is because I saw a chap hunting Rabbit in Canada and he shot each of these kinds, to test whether or not he'd lose arrows, he came to the conclusion that both, equally hung up on grass and twigs and brush and stuff, so no lost arrows.


    Name:  s-l140.jpg
Views: 136
Size:  3.7 KB

    Name:  s-l140-1.jpg
Views: 133
Size:  4.4 KB

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Johnson 130hp prop shaft
    By Maca49 in forum Outdoor Transport
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 13-03-2020, 09:13 PM
  2. Cloggy's tuning in
    By Josan in forum Introductions
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 10-12-2018, 09:38 AM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!