Thread: Bow Advice

I am hoping for a bit of advice around a compound bow for hunting deer. I live in Dunedin so don’t think there is a specialist bow shop locally?? so will either fly to Auckland or drive up to chch to see Paddy. I have next to no knowledge of bows but have done a small amount of archery in the past. I am looking at the Matthew’s vxr 31 and Hoyt torrex in particular. Any opinions on these two is the Matthew’s worth the extra money? What can I expect to spend on sights quiver etc etc on top of the bow? I am keen on the buy once cry once and don’t want to fiddle around upgrading in the near to medium term. Any other suggestions would be welcome

Sights and quiver all depend on budget. I imported a Black Gold Mountain Lite 3 pin slider sight, cost about $400 to my door. Awesome sight. Quiver is a Tight Spot $300 from Advanced Archery. Rest is a Hamskea trophy limb driven. That was $360ish.
One thing with Matthews bows is the draw length is not adjustable without buying a new module. The Torrex is adjustable over a longer range.
I bought a PSE EVO NXT from Archery direct. I live in CHCH and got them to send it down. Haven’t had any issues with it, but I haven’t tried to paper tune etc. It puts field points and broad heads to the same place without any issues.

thanks for that stug, good info

No idea what you guys are talking about when it comes to compounds as I shoot a strugglestick but thought I'd put in a plug for Advanced Archery, they have been real awesome to deal with, I have them build my arrows and nothing is ever a problem and they communicate really well via email etc

Originally Posted by Benj

thanks for that stug, good info

Go See Grant at hunt fish dunedin.He's been bow hunting for a while should be able to point you in the right direction

+1 for Advanced Archery.
I am in the South Island, worked out my draw length and they set up everything I needed to get going. It is not an expensive setup (less than $1000 for bow, quiver, arrows and release aid) but enough to get me out shooting at stuff. I agree with your "buy once, cry once" but archery and bows are a very complex and until you have a bit of experience shooting one I think it is difficult to know exactly what would suit you best in the long term. One thing not to skimp on though is a good release aid. It is the most important part of getting a good shot away and you can keep it through a succession of bows. My 2c.

I too shoot trad bows, so can't comment on compound choices, but can put in another plus for Advanced Archery. Top service, and very snappy on shipping. You can always give them a call, the main operator running the show always has plenty of time for Q&A.

Hmmmm not sure buying a fixed module bow for your first bow would be my choice . I shoot semi regular on 2 & 3d ranges and would say your bow needs/ ideas can change quite rapidly over the first 1-4 years . Most quality USA branded bows in the last 8 or so years have only seen small improvements in design . Nothing in speed! just ease of draw cycle , bow/ limb noise, handshock and cable line let off, making up to 90%letoff @ full draw super easy. If you are just going small to medium game hunting with 2 & 3d targets for fun and practice Id go second hand for starters. A real good alrounder that always come up on trade me for under $700 ready to shoot would be a PSE stinger. This type of single cam bow muilt adjustable draw lenght ,with 60lbs- 70lbs limbs are Ideal to begin with. Most of us will spend a small fortune on release aids before we settle on the( ONE) . Quality sights , arrow rests all come into play over time . Concentrate on learning basic and repeatable form, buy quailty arrows! beleive me its the only part of archery you should never go cheap on. ( MANY DO) I use sika stoppers great shalfs execellent quailty/service @ fair price. Build into archery! its a journey , after a year or so that pse stinger will get traded and your knowedge base will be much broader for your NXT bow. My thoughts anyway good luck & practice practice practice

Bear bows are another great option. Most important thing is getting the bow fitted to you otherwise it is a waste of time. Don't go and make it crazy strong either, I run mine at 50lbs so I know that it is grunty enough for deer inside 40m and even if I am shagged after a day charging around I can keep my form which is a major issue some guys have when running 60-70lb bows

Thanks guys some good stuff here. To clarify the Matthew’s is a fixed module bow but the Hoyt is adjustable?

Definitely wouldn't recommend fixed module for first bow.

I shoot both trad and compound and am a lanky skinny c@nt. 6 foot and 74kgs soaking wet, recurve is 45# but I have long draw so be a bit more. Compound is set at 68# but have had gym junkie/crossfit mates struggling to draw it. Technique and practice are critical with bows.

My point is don't go thinking you NEED 70#, it is far more important to be able to accurately shoot it then just aiming for speed etc.

Start with an option to adjust and you can modify as required, fixed mods don't allow for flexibility. My PSE Dna (or probably myself) shoots rather horrible at 70# but is a laser at 66-68#.

Do you mean 50lb compound? I shoot 55lb recurve and 60lb longbow trad bows (no let off) and will tire after a couple dozen back-to-back shots, but can go all day on my 50lb trad. With more training I will be able to shoot the 60lb all day, as generations of archers have before me. The important thing is to ensure you train - pull the bow each day, a few times a day, and ensure your frame/stance is top. There's no reason a fit man or woman can't pull 50lb+ bows without tiring easily or injuring themselves.

But yep, I agree it's really important to ensure you're never 'over-bowed' when you start out - it's best to start light. It's a shame however (I reckon) to not get into the athletic part of archery, of getting stronger, building up those back and shoulder muscles, to shoot ever-heavier gear. Howard Hill shot 80-100lb trad bows. No reason we today can't do the same, for the fun of it!

Originally Posted by Benj

Thanks guys some good stuff here. To clarify the Matthew’s is a fixed module bow but the Hoyt is adjustable?

Depends on the model!

Some make you change up to a different cam size which have their own family of modules.

Just get a PSE, they are all adjustable within about a 6 inch or so range which is plenty.

https://www.advancedarchery.co.nz/pr...=3377977393178