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Thread: Two meters steel cable is enough?

  1. #1
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    Two meters steel cable is enough?

    Hi

    I am buying materials for building this as picture shown, and I will need to tell the seller how long I need so that they could fix the cable end. Is that two meters is good enough for two guns? One rifle, one shotgun? Or, I should buy two cables and more parts except drill. thank you for any inputs.

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    I have bought 10 eye bolts cost me here less than two dollars for each, but why all the screws in NZ are so expensive?

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    Always In pursuit of my happiness...No matter the costs.

  2. #2
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    Try one of these instead... probably cheaper, easier, and more likely to be approved by an inspecting officer.
    https://outdoorshop.nz/products/gun-...oor-outfitters

    Ideally buy it from an independent NZ gun store.
    MB, dannyb, RV1 and 3 others like this.
    bunji likes this.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed View Post
    Try one of these instead... probably cheaper, easier, and more likely to be approved by an inspecting officer.
    https://outdoorshop.nz/products/gun-...oor-outfitters

    Ideally buy it from an independent NZ gun store.
    Something like this is far better than the cable.
    dannyb likes this.
    Intelligence has its limits, but it appears that Stupidity knows no bounds......

  4. #4
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    Would be more secure if you drilled through the stock with a hole saw, and just bog the hole up if you ever want to sell it.
    outlander likes this.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidGunn View Post
    Would be more secure if you drilled through the stock with a hole saw, and just bog the hole up if you ever want to sell it.
    WTF. Why do that when cable with swaged end loops fed through mag well, around secure framing and padlocked is plenty secure enough. Meets regulations so why butcher a stock which in all probability will be cut down anyway if stolen. Bet you wouldn’t do that to your own gear.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidGunn View Post
    Would be more secure if you drilled through the stock with a hole saw, and just bog the hole up if you ever want to sell it.
    yes like woods 223 WTF - surely you are trying to wind someone up - if you are even remotely serious then WTF
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry the hunter View Post
    yes like woods 223 WTF - surely you are trying to wind someone up - if you are even remotely serious then WTF
    'Thumbhole' stock.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed View Post
    Try one of these instead... probably cheaper, easier, and more likely to be approved by an inspecting officer.
    https://outdoorshop.nz/products/gun-...oor-outfitters

    Ideally buy it from an independent NZ gun store.
    Thank you. will give it a try
    Always In pursuit of my happiness...No matter the costs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Rabbit View Post
    Hi

    I am buying materials for building this as picture shown, and I will need to tell the seller how long I need so that they could fix the cable end. Is that two meters is good enough for two guns? One rifle, one shotgun? Or, I should buy two cables and more parts except drill. thank you for any inputs.

    Attachment 221740

    I have bought 10 eye bolts cost me here less than two dollars for each, but why all the screws in NZ are so expensive?

    Attachment 221741
    HahaBunnings class as a non price sensitive item
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by woods223 View Post
    WTF. Why do that when cable with swaged end loops fed through mag well, around secure framing and padlocked is plenty secure enough. Meets regulations so why butcher a stock which in all probability will be cut down anyway if stolen. Bet you wouldn’t do that to your own gear.
    Welcome to the NEW, New Zealand...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed View Post
    What's the intent of those thin linky cable type padlocks these rack come with? Goes through the hole in end of mounting pin? Why don't they get supplied with a decent padlock that has minimal length U so harder to snip with bolt cutters?

  12. #12
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    The rack is fine but you will be asked to round off the bolts.
    Best to go for a cheap safe you can mount horizontally as you can leave the hex heads intact
    Black Rabbit likes this.

  13. #13
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    What a lot of nonsense.
    Everybody here, including the OP is over-thinking what is required. His picture, which has been taken from the current NZ Police "firearms secure storage guidance shows an inordinate length of cable passing through the mag' well, around part of the wooden structure, through some eye-bolts, and tied together with a padlock of some doubtful quality.
    Why not use a piece of cable, similar to that shown, and simply pass it through the mag' well and wrap it once around the timber framing. Once only. Any more than once does not increase the level of security.
    Oh, sorry. I'm taking it as gospel that what NZ Police show is a good solution. Silly me.
    Think about it folks. And don't over complicate a simple solution.

    This, from the Guidance: (can be found here https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....transportation ) page 6

    2.2.3 Securing a Single Firearm to a Building
    To secure a single firearm to a building Police recommends the following:

    1. The firearm is retained by a cable (4mm-6mm wire or steel rope or cable with a substantial padlock) that is wound through the action of the firearm and retained by at least two 10mm x 100mm eye bolts or screws, alternatively through a stud or rafter or joist (stud). Eye bolts serve absolutely no purpose.

    2. If eye bolts are used the cable must weave through the firearm action and be locked to cover and prevent access to the eye bolts. Eye bolts are not needed if you wrap the cable around the stud, rafter, or joist.

    3. If the cable passes through a stud, the hole must be drilled so there is at least 50mm of material between the edge of the stud and the edge of the hole. The stud must be at least 50mm in depth where the hole has been drilled. If a hole, big enough to pass the cable end eye through, has to be drilled through a stud, rafter, or joist, what thought has been given to the structural integrity of that material in its original and intended purpose?

    4. By passing the cable through the action the firearm is effectively immobilised; however, the bolt should be stored separately.

    5. The firearm should be hidden from sight and not easily detectable.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonetropo View Post
    The rack is fine but you will be asked to round off the bolts.
    Best to go for a cheap safe you can mount horizontally as you can leave the hex heads intact
    Yes, you right. But the thing is...I have to keep my stuffs simple for my SUV in case I have to move. Secondly, a gun safe is not good item in landlord`s eye, they do `t want to any holes.
    Always In pursuit of my happiness...No matter the costs.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Rabbit View Post
    Yes, you right. But the thing is...I have to keep my stuffs simple for my SUV in case I have to move. Secondly, a gun safe is not good item in landlord`s eye, they do `t want to any holes.
    they will never notice the holes if you do it in a wardrobe...
    Micky Duck likes this.

 

 

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