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Thread: Getting rid of crimped primer pockets?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by planenutz View Post
    I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

    With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

    Attachment 148214

    My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.
    Never had this problem and I have done heaps of reloads thru ADI brass. Before I get cussed, annealing is the voodoo. Magic process. My 2C.
    planenutz likes this.

  2. #17
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    I’ve modified this for brass processing


    https://youtu.be/-2uPRqlpA_A


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Seventenths and planenutz like this.

  3. #18
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    ADI brass lasts pretty well in my experience also.

  4. #19
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    I have done both, swaging and reaming. I'd say swaging is a lot faster. I use the RCBS kit on a single stage.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by planenutz View Post
    I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

    With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

    Attachment 148214

    My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.
    I've had this happen with adi brass when i tried reloading some belmont black cases. Evidently they were reloaded from salvaged military brass most likely from machine gun practice. Two out of 25 separated in the die which was annoying.
    I have shot 1000s of rounds of this stuff with never an issue in semis (remember them) and bolt guns with no poblem but that taught me to leave the brass where it fell.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wanneroo View Post
    I have done both, swaging and reaming. I'd say swaging is a lot faster. I use the RCBS kit on a single stage.
    I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6x47 View Post
    I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all
    Greetings 6x47,
    That was my experience as well. I reamed cases that I had swaged with a borrowed kit which improved seating ease. Still not perfect with every case but much better.
    Grandpamac.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6x47 View Post
    I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all
    I've never had a problem and use a lot of military brass. I don't know if it was your issue or not but I do know with the RCBS kit you had to set it up exactly as they say in the instructions and sometimes there is a little force involved.

  9. #24
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    Believe me, it wasn't for lack of experimentation on the setup. In the end, I found using a primer pocket uniformer then the chamfering tool gave the best results.

    Here's a Lyman version of the Sinclair ones I use:
    https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...prod44715.aspx

  10. #25
    Member Beavis's Avatar
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    I've used all the tricks, Dillon super swage has given me the best result. I have an RCBS swaging die and shell plate set I'd sell if you were interested in that.

  11. #26
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    Today I bought the Lee APP press along with their swaging kit for it, so we will see how that all works. Also bought the extra case feeder as well. Looks like it should speed up some of these boring tasks like depriming and swaging.

  12. #27
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    Another vote for the RCBS swaging tool on a single stage press. I use it on the little Lee press. Once I get it set up and in the swing of it it goes pretty fast and very reliable. I started out reaming but without a lathe or decent drill press set up with stops I worried about uniformity. It was bloody hard on the hands after the first hundred or so. Also reaming removes metal, swaging presses it back to where it was before the crimp was made. FYI I bought my RCBS in NZ and it came with the one ram sleeve to fit the older smaller dia SS press rams. I have a Lee Cast press with the fat ram also. I wrote to RCBS signing off with my address, explained the prob, a few weeks later a sleeve to fit the fat ram arrived no charge. I think they are shipped with both sleeves now so mine was prob old stock. The sleeve or cup acts to lift the swaged brass off the swaging nipple.

  13. #28
    res
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    have used a craft knife in the past, dillion 1050 press is the gold standard for removing in my experience-never think about them again
    Using Tapatalk

 

 

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