Thread: Getting a start in reloading

You have a lot of good advice and none of it is wrong.

Before you go and spend a lot of money, I would do the research and gain some basic knowledge, which is what you are trying to do. You are on to a perfect start. So, here is what I suggest - I'll look at your question differently and hope to add some value.

1. - BE SAFE

2. Why do you want to start reloading?

* If it is to save money, that is unlikely. You will end up buying various gear and some will not be used much. You will experiment a lot and waste components sometimes. You will shoot a lot more when reloading.
* If it is to make your own custom made ammo that shoots well in your rifles, then that is a great reason to reload. I really wanted to hunt and kill animals with ammo that I made myself. The step by step journey of developing an accurate load in my rifle that performs well on game is a unique kind of satisfaction.

3. Buy the Lyman manual - latest edition. Read the early chapter (not the load data) 3 times. You need to understand the variables of Case capacity, powder charge, powder burn rate, bullet weight, etc. on velocity and pressure. MOST IMPORTANTLY you need to understand how PRESSURE works. Pressure goes up exponentially. It is not a simple 1:1. You will not understand this in your first 1 year or even 2 years. (I may be wrong and you may already have a career in working with pressure vessels )

*As you start increasing your powder charge, there is a high probability that you could suddenly exceed safe levels and risk a blown primer or worse. The thumb rule I use is that Pressure goes up at two to four times the rate of increase in powder charge & velocity. What I mean is that if you increase powder charge by 1%, velocity might go up by 1% to 2% but pressure will go up by 2% to 4%. Things can change VERY QUICKLY from safe average loads to dangerous unsafe loads.

4. NEVER try to exceed published & tested loads / velocities. You will meet people who claim that they get 100 fps more than the book load and it is because they have a fast barrel and there is some magic technique they use etc. Just walk away and never discuss reloading with that person again.
* The Lyman manual has the BIG advantage of Pressure tested load data that other manuals do not have.
* An extra 200 feet per second is not going to help you kill a deer any better. Reliable safe ammo that is correctly zeroed in your rifle will get you a deer every time as long as you shoot it well and place the bullet in the right place. Some of my hunting loads have taken deer at 300+ meters and they are 150 fps slower than the book load.
* Unsafe ammo can get jammed in your rifle, damage your rifle, hurt you by blowing hot gas in your eyes etc. YouTube has many clips of rifles blowing up.
* I've loaded for at least 14 different rifle cartridges, and I have blown primers on 2 occasions - one was because I had seated the old Barnes X bullet too far out into the lands and that spiked pressure. The other was because I crimped one round and that again spiked pressure. As I said earlier - Pressure is a very complex variable and you need to really understand all the tiny factors that can make it spike into the dangerous territory.

3. I started with the Lee reloading kit. Never regretted it. After 30+ years I still make very accurate & safe ammo.
* I find Lee gear very reliable and of good quality. They are also very affordable when compared to other brands.
* You can always upgrade as you gain more experience and develop your own style, goals etc.
* The internet is full of people who rubbish Lee gear. It is also full of competition shooters who use Lee equipment and win medals.

Like what others have suggested, find a buddy / mentor but make sure he is not a high risk maverick.

Be safe & have fun.