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Thread: Lead pouring question

  1. #16
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    Cant have any inclusion in them as that will fuck the extrusion die

  2. #17
    Gone But Not Forgotten Toby's Avatar
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    Happys idea then?
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  3. #18
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    Maybe - but I'm sure they can be poured in straight pipe and fall/knock out easily = lot less work, esp when you need ~100 billets done
    Big stack of tubes

    Seen a vid around, but need to look further for it

  4. #19
    Gone But Not Forgotten Toby's Avatar
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    It would be a lot quicker. you would have to pre heat the pipe wouldn't you?
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  5. #20
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toby View Post
    It would be a lot quicker. you would have to pre heat the pipe wouldn't you?
    1st batch would have enough heat in them - can return those billets to the melting pot

  6. #21
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    In my experience it won't release from the pipe, maybe highly polished SS? What are the expansion / shrinkage rates of the materials.
    What about a slit tube inside a solid tube, pour your lead in and hit the pipe out of the pipe and spring off?

  7. #22
    Gone But Not Forgotten Toby's Avatar
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    That sounds like it should work
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toby View Post
    That sounds like it should work
    Nothing wrong with your ears aye!

  9. #24
    Gone But Not Forgotten Toby's Avatar
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    Can hear you miles away
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  10. #25
    P38
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    Spanners

    Keep it simple.

    Weld some mild steel blocks to an old set of vice grips/welding clamps etc, include some locating lugs or taper dowels if you need accuracy and repeatability, close tightly together and drill down through the join in the diameter and depth that you require.

    Close the grips heat the mold, Pour the lead, open the grips, repeat.

    Cheers
    Pete
    veitnamcam and Maca49 like this.

  11. #26
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    Lots of ways to skin a cat!

  12. #27
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    The reason for preheating the mold is to get rid of moister Spanners. It can be explosive when the molten lead hits ANY water.

  13. #28
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    People don't seem to realize how dodgy it is Tussock, especially when you start doing bigger quantities.

  14. #29
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    This is basically what was suggested
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    ---
    Corbin uses a tube like I was thinking about - steel i think

    To make lead wire, pure soft lead is first melted and poured into the billet
    tubes to form lead cylinders (or billets) about 4-inches long. There are two
    tubes and one base. The base is normally mounted to your bench top with
    two long screws, provided, or fastened to a piece of two by four lumber
    which can then be clamped in a vise. The tubes slip over a plug on this
    base, which seals the lead and holds the tube upright during pouring.
    Wearing heat-resistant gloves, you can remove the tube within
    seconds of pouring the lead, set it aside, and slip another tube over the
    base. Pour the second tube full of lead, and then give the first tube a
    sharp down and up shake to dislodge the lead billet. Switch tubes, and
    continue making billets in this manner.

    Have done the calcs - the billets I'll be making will be just under 1lb each, so would have to do 220ish for 100kg, or do 20 of them and stash the rest of the lead LOL

  15. #30
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    I'd do something similar. But without a lathe I'd use rectangular ali, add a couple of hinges, and a handle to each side. Then just drill it with the desired diameter to the depth you want. Job done. If wanted a bit of timber with a couple of slots to hold the handles together and hold the thing upright, leaving two hands to pour with. Much faster to operate than locating pins and clamps.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

 

 

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