Thread: Neck turning

Originally Posted by Friwi

Puffin, I understand your concern.

My concern is not foremost about accuracy but about safety around tight necks.
I'm currently looking around at the available reamers for 6.5x47. The reamers where I know the manufacturer are all PTG and there appear to be 2 different profiles, one with a tighter neck (0.292" ) and the other wider (0.2945). Loaded rounds using Lapua brass are 0.290 across. I think you would need to be very careful with just 0.001" all-around clearance. For me the narrower chamber would dictate skimming the necks to take a loaded round down to 0.289" minimum, but I'm interested to see what others think is a safe neck clearance margin. I think most would accept the wider reamer as "no turn" for brass that gave a 0.290" neck for a loaded round.

Originally Posted by Puffin

The same for using bushing dies for this step where a bushing size may need to be purchased specifically to take the necks down to be a snug fit on the mandrel.

Forgot to add that with a bushing die not being able to size right up to the neck-shoulder junction then not all the neck can be turned so the case will end up with a donut. Really need a conventional die just for preparing the cases for neck turning !

Whats the best way to measure neck tension?

Originally Posted by Gibo

Whats the best way to measure neck tension?

If you go to the Orient, I can recommend a few places to relieve it😆

Can't really measure the tension per say but you measure a outside Dia at the neck of a loaded round and size your necks from there using the required bushings.

My chamber has a neck Dia cut of .296
I use a .292 bushing to achieve the best results in my setup if that makes sense. Doesn't matter imo how tight or loose you go as long as it is consistent.

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You can keep the side valves bro

Outside diametre sounds pointless if the wall thickness isn't the same? Wouldnt inside diametre be better? I dont know what im talking about incase you hadnt noticed

Originally Posted by Gibo

You can keep the side valves bro

Outside diametre sounds pointless if the wall thickness isn't the same? Wouldnt inside diametre be better? I dont know what im talking about incase you hadnt noticed

You are right but unless you buy an internal reamer you have no way of controlling that. I ream all my necks but don't turn the outsides. Bushing takes care of that in my case.

You are supposed to measure the outside Dia of loaded round and select a bushing .002 under that to give optimum tension.

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And some times when you've turned your necks got the right bushing annealed ya brass checked with a million different gadgets but are in a hurry to go hunting.........I can still fuck it up.




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Originally Posted by BRADS

And some times when you've turned your necks got the right bushing annealed ya brass checked with a million different gadgets but are in a hurry to go hunting.........I can still fuck it up.




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Ha Ha try and use the wrong die?
Looks like you got it stuck when seating?

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Annealed finger? Or was that from the aisian tension relief?

Originally Posted by R93

You are right but unless you buy an internal reamer you have no way of controlling that. I ream all my necks but don't turn the outsides. Bushing takes care of that in my case.

You are supposed to measure the outside Dia of loaded round and select a bushing .002 under that to give optimum tension.

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So is .002 the goods? If i do it the cheapo way with calipers my internals are .004 so for the 7mm its .280 sized and .284ish on a fired case????

So they say. It works for me but as long as your neck tension is consistent it doesn't matter imo.



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Gibo, if you really want to neck turn for a hunting rifle, then just do a light shave off of the high spots, say 40-70% of the outside neck surface then a bushing die, this is what I've done in the past.
Now if you are going to do this then you might as well weight sort your brass (anything that is say outside -/+ 3% of the average use for Foulers, practice ) uniform the primer pocket depth & deburr the inside of the primer hole. It's just about having a batch of consistent brass.

Originally Posted by outdoorlad

Gibo, if you really want to neck turn for a hunting rifle, then just do a light shave off of the high spots, say 40-70% of the outside neck surface then a bushing die, this is what I've done in the past.
Now if you are going to do this then you might as well weight sort your brass (anything that is say outside -/+ 3% of the average use for Foulers, practice ) uniform the primer pocket depth & deburr the inside of the primer hole. It's just about having a batch of consistent brass.

thats basically what i do, but i do anneal my necks erry firing

Originally Posted by outdoorlad

@Gibo If you want to have sleepless nights over reloading & really fall into the dark side, buy a concentricity gauge

not all concentricity gauges are created equal.... most are just a royal pain in the bum to use. Accuracy One and 21st Century have good designs.

Originally Posted by ebf

not all concentricity gauges are created equal.... most are just a royal pain in the bum to use. Accuracy One and 21st Century have good designs.

My mates a racecar engineer/fabricator. He made it