Thread: Powder trickler advice

When you're past 600yds on F class targets, you want everything you can get going for you. As you say, for 95% of shooters, the last 0.1 doesn't matter.

If you think about it, your method is probably more time consuming than mine even if you only checked every tenth one. Even you checked every one, it won't be as accurate as mine.

Originally Posted by 6x47

When you're past 600yds on F class targets, you want everything you can get going for you. As you say, for 95% of shooters, the last 0.1 doesn't matter.

If you think about it, your method is probably more time consuming than mine even if you only checked every tenth one. Even you checked every one, it won't be as accurate as mine.

Sorry i explained it wrong as i know my weights from the dispenser are right i dont cross check them at all except the first after a quick calbrate.
Probably spitting out 50 rounds in half an hour as i seat the projectile while its weighing out another load.
As far as accuracy goes i shot my 338 and 6.5 last week at 600 on paper and both were holding 1/2 moa or slightly better.
The 338 grouped 3 inches at 830 a couple of weeks ago and i cant shoot any better than that so i will continue with the .1 tolerance me auto load gives me.
Alot of that fidling round is good for putting your mind at rest but along with my concentricity guage the chrony can sit as well as they are only guides.

You've pretty much told me what I was telling you- the dispenser is no faster than my method. Mine involves no more fiddling round really.

Can you seat your bullets while your dispensing?

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Can you seat your bullets while your dispensing?

Yup

Originally Posted by DAF

Yup

I know your up With the game daf so just wondering what system and tolerances are you using?

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I know your up With the game daf so just wondering what system and tolerances are you using?

I hope I've got your question understood

I fully process my new brass but don't generally weigh each one

I use Wilson dies and a small arbor press for the feel

Rcbs throws a load .1 gn short

Move powder pan to gd503 and weigh,
Use electronic trickler to take to as close to my ideal load within 2/100th of a gn
So if my load is 68gn then in trickle between 68.005 to 68.025 as a single kernel weighs about .045gn

Drop tube into case
Lube bullet in graphite powder

Seat with Wilson seater in abor press all ammo's OAL within 1thou

I dont check if concentric

All neck clearances Are 2 thou

It's a fast process as the rcbs is throwing the next load while I seat

All good daf thanks for that.
I havnt even seen an arbor press yet!
I have only ever gone to the .1 grain but definitely like to have nice even feel when seating.
I just use lapua brass for every thing and keep all my trimming even with a mixture of bushing dies and i have some forster dies for my 338 l that produce good ammo.
Its always interesting to see what other people do as far as accuracy goes.
Thanks for that daf

Got a bloke into reloading. Told him tongue in cheek the best way to get super accurate loads was to count out each individual kernel for each round. Blow me down he did 100 223 rounds this way and swears they are super accurate. Think it is more the confidence issue.

Same arbor press and dies that I use except my seater has a micrometer adjuster on top

Hmm. I will have to utube how that all works!

Originally Posted by DAF

I hope I've got your question understood

I fully process my new brass but don't generally weigh each one

I use Wilson dies and a small arbor press for the feel

Where do you go/what do you do with a case that doesn't feel like the others to seat?
do you anneal regularly or even every firing and if so if you get a case that "feels" different to seat do you discard or anneal the whole batch or just that case or what ?

Lots of us do the most that we can to keep stuff consistent (usually with initial brass prep) but what do you as a competitive shooter do with brass that feels "different" ?
bin it/batch it/try and fix it?

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

what do you as a competitive shooter do with brass that feels "different" ? bin it/batch it/try and fix it?

Here's an interesting youtube on the arbor press that K+M make that comes with a force gauge ... and also what this guy does with his rounds that don't "feel the same"

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Where do you go/what do you do with a case that doesn't feel like the others to seat?
do you anneal regularly or even every firing and if so if you get a case that "feels" different to seat do you discard or anneal the whole batch or just that case or what ?

Lots of us do the most that we can to keep stuff consistent (usually with initial brass prep) but what do you as a competitive shooter do with brass that feels "different" ?
bin it/batch it/try and fix it?

Put it in a bag labelled 'Foulers', they get shot eventually, fun shooting or used as foulers . Real oddball feeling ones get red vivid marked for attention further down the track in case they surface again as 'different', if they do they are binned

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Where do you go/what do you do with a case that doesn't feel like the others to seat?
do you anneal regularly or even every firing and if so if you get a case that "feels" different to seat do you discard or anneal the whole batch or just that case or what ?

Lots of us do the most that we can to keep stuff consistent (usually with initial brass prep) but what do you as a competitive shooter do with brass that feels "different" ?
bin it/batch it/try and fix it?

Put it in a bag labelled 'Foulers', they get shot eventually, fun shooting or used as foulers . Real oddball feeling ones get red vivid marked for attention further down the track in case they surface again as 'different', if they do they are binned