Thread: So what do I use for pressure signs then

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

now what was it Alanis Morriset said???? something about good advice????
anytime you CHOOSE to load hot/above book max you are taking a gamble/calculated risk
IF you KNOW your rifle from many years of loading for it or many different loads through it you can be a bit more calculating as to what is going to be OK...but if its a new rifle all bets are off,give me a mild accurate load over a fast one thats spraying shots anyday.... another really big danger is working up a hot load in cold conditions,fire that same load on a say 30 degree day and you are likely to blow up rifle and yourself.
you have asked what to use for pressure signs......do you actually want anyone to answer that or just confirm what you already think???

You are sort of assuming in each post hot loads shoot badly. All the rifles I have handloaded for tightened up towards their maximum. I paid for one to be loaded, I got a 22-250 load which was accurate and no faster than a .243, afterwards I did it myself and got the same accuracy at a much higher velocity. I abandoned the load and rifle because my Hornady mixed lot brass would be fine, except one packet of 20 cases in 200 would jam be bolt.

I think the question still stands and while Rambo is going over, what is the answer to his question. Assume my point, that pressure can be made early and the book means squat?

I'm dead curious having spent the day firing factory ammo and as I am in the habit, I checked the cases. My factory ammo, Winchester powerpoint 175g 7mm Rem Mag had ejector marks and my Sellior and Belliot .243 had completely flattened primers.