Thread: Barrels ruined by cleaning

Originally Posted by ebf

Chamber end carbon scrub I normally wet a mop or patch with Kroil, push it thru and let that soak in for 5-10 min. Then put a patch on a jag, wet that with slightly thicker oil like Breakfree CLP, and then apply abbrasive paste on top of that.

Once you are done scrubbing, you want to make REALLY sure you remove all abbrasive, so use something like brake cleaner or even meths. Remember that an abbrasive polishing compound will create a black patch, so don't think the patches will eventually come clean By that stage you would have created a small caliber smooth bore

You really need yo look down the barrel with a borescope to see if you have removed serious carbon (or rust). Bores scopes are a game changer interest of cleaning.

Agree re the borescope for cleaning. Takes the guesswork out of it. Often find residual carbon or copper that’s a surprise. And then focus the technique. Arguably reduces any risk of overcleaning...

Originally Posted by Fat ninja

Any one got any tips on how to get pitting out of a barrel?

Sadly it’s there forever.

(To remove pitting you have to remove metal....)

]Sadly it’s there forever.

(To remove pitting you have to remove metal....)

Typical, I lent a gun to a mate and it came back pitted. Won’t be doing that again.

Originally Posted by ebf

Remember that an abrasive polishing compound will create a black patch, so don't think the patches will eventually come clean.

A very good point, as this had me fooled for a long time - barrels that never seem to come clean.

Originally Posted by ebf

Bores scopes are a game changer interest of cleaning.

This. I haven't got the "gunsmith eye" that apparently can see down barrels.

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

A good mate of mine who is a qualified chemical engineer looked at me sideways and suggested it's not the most brilliant thing to do as it reacts with steel.

Aqueous ammonia is an effective and inexpensive way of removing copper fouling, if/when that is required.
Both mild and stainless steels are used in the manufacture and storage of ammonia, and while there can be corrosion issues, this depends more on other contaminants that are present than the ammonia itself. The reaction time-frames when this does occur are long. Reports to the contrary are good for selling the much more expensive alternatives. Do not store the ammonia anywhere near your brass.
Here is a recent summary with references.
http://eurocorr.efcweb.org/2018/abstracts/7/101877.pdf

Originally Posted by gundoc

I have always been a fan of Hoppes #9 (especially the original formulation), but Sweets is OK, and there will be others that are suitable. It is important to use a product that contains a metal fouling solvent (eg; ammonia or similar).

You've got to be careful with Sweets as it contains a lot of ammonia. Some years back I saw a fairly new stainless Shilen select match barrel that was completely rooted because the owner left Sweet's in it and forgot about it until the next day. It was darkish grey to look at and even after extensive cleaning and using JB paste it wasn't able to be saved. Expensive mistake.

I pretty well stay with Collings #90 and Ballistol.

Originally Posted by Fat ninja

Any one got any tips on how to get pitting out of a barrel?

Remove barrel from rifle, cut off barrel where pitting is. Re-crown and you're good to go. If you want to save time dont remove barrel

In all seriousness though, that's a bit shit of your mate.

Haha it is quite bad, yea it’s pretty stink. Lesson learnt tho

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

A bit of a side note, I found a bottle of Youngs 303 in the cupboard. That smell brings back some memories.

Yes; same.Mine is a full red tin can like the old powder container shape. Paper label has "Parker Hale's four point plan" for all gun cleaning with Stephen Youngs. Nice to keep.