Thread: Firearm Maintenace

clean it when you finish the hunt, dont put it back in the safe and have food and beers then clean it later.

Originally Posted by TeRei

Greg Duley did a great run down on cleaning your semi a few moons ago. Very informative.

Oh really?

Originally Posted by csmiffy

Oh really?

Tech talk during tv show.

Originally Posted by 3Ballers

Thanks for sharing some of what you know @Fssprecision, I think thats the best one as of yet. If you've got anything to add I'm sure others will appreciate it as much as I do.

Have you done much rifle bluing?

I seem to have inherited a lot of old worn firearms, all with good bores. I think a new blue would really sort the majority of them out.

I've got some time at the moment with a broken neck and plan to start with my grandads old air rifles.. then progress to my old mans side by side ( I think this is the best progression in terms of ease ) before moving to a 22wm bolt action - then the browning trombone.. this one holds the most sentimental and I've hopefully honed my skills by this stage.

I'll finish with a WWII 303 and a rem 700 300WM from the 60's , I'm having some trouble with the 3 + 1 mag and might have some learning over the next few months to help fix that up. Otherwise I'm thinking of trying 2 get a magazine installed (safer) It Looks a beaut at the minute, original wooden stock. Tempted to sell it, I don't think the kick is any good for my shoulder post surgery.

Online I'm seeing cold bluing, hot bluing, rust bluing and who knows there's probably some blue bluing & red redding out there.. If anyone has experience in this field, please share.

Hoping to find some affordable options, from what I've gathered the cold option could be best.

No have not done any blueing, to be done properly you need heated tanks etc which I don’t have. That said I have heard people have good results with the old style rust blueing, I must get to try it one day

Cheers
Darren

look so long as new hunters obey some basic principal's they wont go wrong 1) oils coat and protect but they can cover nastys like rust and in a barrel mettalic fouling - solvents penetrate and use the right one in your barrel follow the manufactures instructions and you cant go wrong a proper solvent will get your fouling out - it may require a bronze brush but there is plenty of tutorials on you tube and good info on here to do the job right - so oils coat solvents penetrate - CRC and WD 40 do not belong near your firearm unless under very specific use - spray that around willy nilly and it will stain your walnut stock and get into places it does not belong- be warned - a little on rust spots yes - less is best - light oiling of moving parts -regular inspection of your rifle is a must - damp is your real enemy- closely followed by barrel fouling and failure to clean a barrel properly -

Them CRC type aerosols kills scopes too....

For removing speckly rust that mysteriously grows in your warm and dry safe - I recommend Frontier Big 45 cleaning pads. These are like a stainless pot scrubber but dont damage the blue , but do a great job of removing rust spots , or even heavy rust deposits.

Many moons ago I did a pictorial series on here about using these pads , and basic stock rejuvenation but alas , they were removed ( as was I ) in a fit of pique by the rulers of the site , and I havent bothered to redo the series.

There are many ways to do gun maintainance , some good , some bad , some stupid but you have to work out for yourself which will be best for you. Please dont use steel wool on anything that has a blued finish.