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Thread: Oiled stock

  1. #16
    Member Sideshow's Avatar
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    Just keep all this out of your checkering!
    It will just clog it up otherwise
    jakewire likes this.

  2. #17
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  3. #18
    Member ex-NZFS's Avatar
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    gidday mate - I bought a new sako 85 in 270 W last year- I use what I've always used 1 part boiled linseed to 4 parts mineral turpentine
    I find that this penetrates in and seems to keep the stock in ship- shape
    I also took the rifle down and coated the barrel channel and inletting area with marine spar polyurethane

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frosty View Post
    Cheers Frosty, have ordered some for my Bavarian

  5. #20
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    Yep I followed that recipe, takes a few layers. But it comes up like a clear coated gun stock. The top rifles took about a week of fluffing with every night.
    The bottom picture took about 1/2 an hr as I wanted to leave it non shiny

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    Philipo, nor-west and hotsoup like this.

  6. #21
    Member ANTSMAN's Avatar
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    Ive had great results with tru oil on an unfinished new stock. I have a Browning now and will strip the finish and re oil . Good to see guys getting back to timber.

  7. #22
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Based on my experiences working as a surface coatings chemist for several years, Raw linseed or tung oil should be avoided, Boiled Linseed oil is fine for decorative pieces(those that never get wet) but will not seal wood against water. The finish will turn slightly milky when wet.
    Spar varnish type products like true oil are linseed or tung oil that have been reacted with phenolic resin glycerine and acid, they are truly waterproof and probably the best for redoing a working rifle unless you have access to high end two pack factory sealers and finishes.
    Mathias likes this.

  8. #23
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    I had a make over done on this old Sako about 3yrs ago and it has sat in my volt ever since, when I held the rifle a few days ago I noticed the oil from my hands left finger prints all over the stock.
    I think the stock has dried out perhaps and needs re-oiled, about 99% sure the guy used Boiled Linseed Oil.
    Started reading up on oiling stocks but the more reading I done the more confused I got as everyone has a diffrent idea's (you only need to look here on this thread and see how everyone has a diffrent idea on what prouduct to use and how to apply it)
    So what are my options? I was hoping I could just use some type of wax and a quick wipe over the wood to seal it or do I have to remove stock and spend hrs rubbing in layers of Linseed oil.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Based on my experiences working as a surface coatings chemist for several years, Raw linseed or tung oil should be avoided, Boiled Linseed oil is fine for decorative pieces(those that never get wet) but will not seal wood against water. The finish will turn slightly milky when wet.
    Spar varnish type products like true oil are linseed or tung oil that have been reacted with phenolic resin glycerine and acid, they are truly waterproof and probably the best for redoing a working rifle unless you have access to high end two pack factory sealers and finishes.
    Correct, I have done one or two stocks over the years and no longer use linseed oil but use Danish oil without the shiny finish.

  10. #25
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    So with the above linked method, is the armorall acting as the phenolic resin glycerene? When you start doing the rubbing on it does go a little milky but that goes away as you keep rubbing, it seems pretty durable and i have had no water marks come through.

  11. #26
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Armour all is from memory a carnuba wax based compound that may contain silicone for better water repellency. Wax finishes on their own only last a short time on timber before they wear off. The wood needs to be sealed first for them to last. Attempting to oil or varnish over wax is unsucessful as the wax prevents the finish from drying properly leaving a sticky mess.

 

 

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