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  • 1 Post By Micky Duck

Thread: SKS Cleaning

  1. #1
    Member Grumblebee's Avatar
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    SKS Cleaning

    Hi all. I recently picked up an SKS still gunked up with cosmoline. I have read online some different ways to clean off the cosmoline from the metal components such as simple green and hot water, or a soaking in mineral spirits. What do you guys recommend for this, and is mineral spirits the same as mineral turpentine, as I can't seem to find the former over here? Cheers.

  2. #2
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    Simple Green is pretty good stuff as far as I am concerned. Go through buckets of the stuff for all sorts of stuff.

  3. #3
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    I have cleaned a few SKS and found acetone works really well. if you take the stock off and warm up the action and barrel the cosmoline is far easier to remove.

  4. #4
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    Mineral spirits I think is meths?
    look I reckon it will be just too hard.
    Freight it down to me and I'll throw it away for you lol

  5. #5
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    I have done a couple of SKS's and a mosin, all with heaps of cosmo still on them and got ok results with acetone.

    What I did was strip them down completely and scrape the worst of it off with a plastic putty tool and plastic tyre levers then leftthem over night in a home made solvent bath. For that, I used a metre section of 90mm PVC pipe (gutter section would work just as well), fitted with an end cap, put the parts in and pretty much filled it with acetone. What I learnt (messily) after the first time is that you have to do your homework what sealant etc you use to fix your end cap, as a lot of solvents will eat right through it, meaning as soon as you move your bath, the cap falls off...

    After it has soaked, I used rags and toothpicks for the rest of the cosmo.

    It was pretty ballsaching though, I can't help but think someones found an easier/ better way. This stuff seemed like it might be worth a try https://rifleshooter.com/2018/02/eas...oline-removal/

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubique View Post
    I have done a couple of SKS's and a mosin, all with heaps of cosmo still on them and got ok results with acetone.

    What I did was strip them down completely and scrape the worst of it off with a plastic putty tool and plastic tyre levers then leftthem over night in a home made solvent bath. For that, I used a metre section of 90mm PVC pipe (gutter section would work just as well), fitted with an end cap, put the parts in and pretty much filled it with acetone. What I learnt (messily) after the first time is that you have to do your homework what sealant etc you use to fix your end cap, as a lot of solvents will eat right through it, meaning as soon as you move your bath, the cap falls off...

    After it has soaked, I used rags and toothpicks for the rest of the cosmo.

    It was pretty ballsaching though, I can't help but think someones found an easier/ better way. This stuff seemed like it might be worth a try https://rifleshooter.com/2018/02/eas...oline-removal/
    This webpage has some pretty handy stuff on it too as well as repair/refinishing.
    the guy called Candyman seems the bizzle.
    Stock Care and Replacement Stocks - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.com

  7. #7
    Member Driverman's Avatar
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    White spirits and acetone are what I use. Also make sure the firing pin is free to move without binding. If gunked up this will cause slamfires (machine gun)

  8. #8
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    50 quid to a knob of goat shit boring old petrol will take it off..... it shifts grease thats caked on easy as.....icecream container and paintbrush outside (without a smoke) and set to it with vigour....thats what I did to norinco .22lr to remove all the grease etc from action and bolt. white spirits will evaporate faster and both wont hurt metal at all a simple rub down with oily rag afterwards and she be good to go.
    northdude likes this.

  9. #9
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Yep petrol, the toluene content means its dynamite at removing grease, better than acetone. If you can get xylene its as good and much less of a fire hazard (higher flash point)

 

 

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