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Thread: Supressors.

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  1. #8
    Terminator Products Kiwi Greg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Nelson
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    6,782
    Quote Originally Posted by Spanners View Post
    18mm on a 20mm I think is too big.
    That only leaves at best 1mm shoulder to pull the device up against.
    5/8 x 24 is a better size

    I thnk that spring from diameter change in a barrel is negliable at best - if it was an issue every barrel that has a taper from the chamber to the muzzle would have a bore like a blunderbus - especially sporter barrels. Same reasoning goes with fluting.

    Crowns - my experience goes along with Robbie Tiffins findings - You can hacksaw a barrel off at the range, debur with a chainsaw file, when doing velocity testing and still shoot bugholes.
    I've only come across 1 person who does a PROPER job of crowning on EVERY barrel - the huge stack of Trophys and Medals from around the World prove he knows what hes doing

    +1 IMHO keeping the thread away from the bore is a good idea, but keeping it so far away as to have a such a small shoulder that the brake or suppressor cannot be reliably pulled up on to it is severly defeating the purpose.
    This will cause the brake or suppressor to continue to rotate past the prefered point.
    This can lead to very undesirable POI issues with suppressors & the un-phasing of ported directional brakes.
    The band aid fix for this is to use the less efficent radial brakes.

    Talking about brakes how much clearance should you run inside the bore ?
    I have seen numbers from 20-30 thou on the net & in brake instructions.
    I have one braked rifle here that has 13.5 thou clearance, a little close for my likeing.
    I also had another on one of my rifles that had like 80 odd thou clearance a little much.
    The less clearance you have the better the brake should work, but at what cost.
    Carbon build up & peening can be an issue, also if/when the brake comes loose will it strike the brake ?

    I have cut a few barrels down at the range with a hand hacksaw & then recrowned it with a battery drill & countersink bit, rough as bro
    You should see the look on Guys faces when they see me do it & then when they see some of the groups after the cuts

    Shootm a Gunworks Maximus is what you want, I have two they work well
    Last edited by Kiwi Greg; 07-01-2012 at 09:04 AM.
    Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc

    http://terminatorproducts.co.nz/

    http://www.youtube.com/user/Terminat...?feature=guide

 

 

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