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Thread: 2.8 hilux injector pump fitted to 1kzte

  1. #16
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    Correct unless you like replacing engines
    Dev likes this.

  2. #17
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    we used to do a lot of repowers back in the day not high performance diesels tho put diesels into campervans tho. You need to know what you are doing if you start playing with turbos on some of the diesels tho pretty quick way to blow one up...
    22 hornets and most things 6.5

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by northdude View Post
    we used to do a lot of repowers back in the day not high performance diesels tho put diesels into campervans tho. You need to know what you are doing if you start playing with turbos on some of the diesels tho pretty quick way to blow one up...
    I think 'repowers' is a brand name.
    I am keen to fit a 1kzte into my hiace 4wd
    Use enough gun

  4. #19
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    mitsi mechanical 4m40 pump meant to be an upgrade for the toyotas. Bit of a shag around i think though

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by longrange308 View Post
    Two wires are rev counter, first problem, have you overhauled the injectors and checked valve clearances?
    Can you put up a picture on intake manifold so I can id the motor,
    Also please donít go to repowers unless you have 4 spare engines lying around
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    I'm nearly at the point where I'm ready to do injectors it's just been running so bad up till this point I didn't want to be pissing away on things problem solving when there was a hidden fatal flaw of the engine, it's been a bit of a dog for me this far

  6. #21
    Dev
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    The Fuel shut off/spill valves are on the pumps so unless your unlucky and both are faulty...
    The 1KZ has a throttle plate (the one you have wired open?) They help with a smooth quick shut down also for EGR operation I believe. They can be removed and they still shut down quickly just with more of a jolt.. But with it wired open and possibly leaky injectors its able to run on I guess, no doubt the injectors have done plenty of KS
    Have you checked the intake pipe and manifold? They get well blocked up with crud!
    Check all fuel lines and Primer for leaks.
    Have you checked if heads cracked?

    Best put an EGT gauge on there, don't want to much fuel/heat going in... or you'll be replacing the head soon if its not all ready cracked...
    Intercooler is a good idea if putting in more fuel.

    To be fair the factory 1kz pumps are fine, you can tweak the fuel a little on the 1kz spill valves for a little more power, 1KZ have a boost cut 14psi think it was. can get boxes/chips to get rid of it...

  7. #22
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    In so far as injector state, a good cleaner product can be a very useful diagnosis tool to tell you if the injectors are kaput or just contaminated. In my experience of this using something called Wynns EDT (which is a bug controller and injector cleaner) I've had a couple of engines that showed no response to the product and these either had a rooted injector or an air leak or some other issue. Most have shown a marked improvement in the first 3-4 tankfuls through the system when dosed correctly.

    It might not fully fix the issue but will absolutely assist with diagnosis prior to spending a lot on mechanics. My most recent experience of this is with my wife's little Hyundai Tucson, was a rattly bag of snot and running like a prick of a thing especially on startup. After the first tank, totally different vehicle quiet on start, much quieter on warm up, and fuel consumption by the onboard info down .5L/100Km no other changes. This vehicle has regular filter and oil changes/full service every 10,000Km. Dirty injectors can do a world of hurt it seems...

  8. #23
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    I was thinking it ran on a little longer than usual possibly because the wire used to provide 12v to the pump probably cuts off voltage a bit more slowly than the factory ecu driven one, I'm not super worried about it taking a 2-3 second delay to turn off if it runs and idles fine. Still shuts down just fine and nicely just a noticeable delay
    I'll chase down the diesel leak back issue and see if that's causing more than just the sluggish start. Monitoring is next ie boost & temp gauges.
    Looking at what's required to fit an EGT properly, that it will likely be a down the road when she is running nice job, or at exhaust change time if I get that far. Looks like a prick of a job to do properly in the correct location and taking off the hot side isn't on the cards for the moment. probably just a aftermarket water temp And boost gauge.

    I'll give that Wynns EDT product a shot before replacing the injectors, I'd say there's a little bit of air sneaking in which I am hoping is at the hand pump/filter housing, when that's gone I'd say things might idle a bit nicer.

    I think I'm pretty close to "rough enough" but I don't want to cook the thing in the process so I'm going to get on to the gauges so I get a little bit of feedback on what it's doing when out on the road for the final dial in when I match the boost to the feul level I choose
    The thing has barely run up till this point so I'm all for simplicity, ecu/electronic 20+years on starts to get shakey at best.
    Bieng just a boat puller/second truck my 1kd lux can take up the slack till I'm happy with everything's effect on the motor and I'll take it in for a final tickle up and tune by a diesel guru Iv heard of in town

  9. #24
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    Shouldn't be that hard to fit a EGT temp sensor, should be able to pick up a socket and sensor and jam it in after the manifold a piece of piss. Knew a guy who fitted four one for each cylinder - a little excessive but did show one cylinder was running a couple hundy degrees hotter than the rest. Never heard why that was but did explain why it kept doing head gaskets.

    Diesel supply air leak can be a mongrel to track down, if you are having issues with leak back (loss of pressure once you hand pump the primer) I would be a little suspect of the seals or the check valve in the filter assembly itself or in the pipework up to the back of the injection pump and the first check valve in the injection pump. Further up the train you're more likely to end up with leak through or leak out if there's an issue as you are getting into much higher working pressures due to the function of the injector pump itself. Always a possibility that the spill section of the pump is worn so you aren't achieving correct pulse pressure, or as suggested you are getting leaking control circuit valves which absolutely does not help anything. The system is fairly basic, but any component not functioning correctly is a cause for poor performance like you are experiencing.

    I find the smaller engines generally give the most running issues, larger engines generally in my experience stop co-operating once they develop an issue. The smaller gear seems to keep staggering on running like a bag of snot which seems good but can result in higher wear of components and earlier total failure so it's best to sort it prior to running it extensively.

 

 

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