Thread: '85 Landcruiser - Any good?

if its got the box with the pto on the side of the transfer, get the case pulled off and a modified gear put on the output shaft, one on there will strip the spline and leave you driveless
plus you mite find the intermediate pin and bearings rooted
bearings kits wont be a problem like tussock said but gears on the other hand will be, better to do bearings before the gears get to eat themselfs

Cheers guys.

I had my front diff out and in four or 5 times recently. Soon get fucked off doing it

Its virtually impossible to get a 80 series front with factory elect locker as a rebuilt exchange that is actually rebuilt.
Beware the cowboys if buying second hand rebuilt parts!

Wanted bolt in and go, its my daily driver.

And i should know better but did ring and pinion backing into a bank on a narrow track with it fully locked up to sledge round like a dozer instead of backing 300m up road to where i could do a 3 point turn.
Bloody boys eh

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This is becoming a drawn out sale, are we there yet?

Originally Posted by Tussock

Mine was much less dramatic. Up the paddock to fix the ducks, did not disengage the hubs, headed out the gate and up the road the next day and "bang". Now everything is full of metal. Inside the swivel hub looked like a chocolate milkshake. Everything was contaminated. Grim.

Wildman, you might want to check all the fluids and stuff. Do you do your own services?

That should not happen even on seal .

You were in 2wd with the hubs in? Or 4wd with the hubs in?

Cv is the weak link, if you did a manual hub its likely it wasn't fully engaged.

Two much grease can cause them to hydraulic as such.
Not enough lets water in.

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The bits on your finger are coming from inside the locking hub,swivel hub or live axel/diff housing?

If in 2wd there should be no way to load any front diff components with the exception of if a front diff lock is engaged, in which case you can load the manual hubs axels and cvs while turning on high traction surfaces.

Your symptoms sound to me like a Cv or (cringe) ring and pinion.

Can't see how you could damage them in 2wd tho unless the damage was caused earlier and only just noticed.



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Im confused now lol, metal on both sides of the oil seal on the main axel? is that oil seal compleatly munted?

If there is any metal in the diff housing at all, pull both axels and diff head and clean that housing. steam cleaner if possible from both axel ends to wash out any lumps then kero.

Inspect every thing and replace fucked bits.

Reasembly gives you the chance replace axel seal, put speedy sleeve on seal surface of axel to pack the bloody hell out of the swivel hub bearings and swivel hub itself CVs with moly grease,check for any bearing wear on hub itself(prone..too loose bearing fit from fact)

Remember if its full of grease there is no room for water to get in!. Except that is for your manual hubs but you want as much in there as you can and have them still work, if you get too much in its like a hyd ram and wont come out or in with the sticktion.

Of course you may have just done an axel/cv/manual hub/wheel bearing outside the oil seal in which case do up that side then do the other next week

Rebuilt both ends of axel keeps water out of your diff, even with a extended breather deep water gets in.Its just the pressure underwater,seals are designed to keep oil in not water out.

Sorry just re read your post. Pull diff head.

whatever It is if its on the inside its expensive! Tho to be fair mine is bad cos not many fact lockers out there.

yea generally you have to do something really stupid to break anything like my example

PTO winches are great. just make sure you carry some spare shear pins for the PTO drive shaft - there's a collet (?) thingy just under the unit. they'll pop on you at the most inconvenient moment. Factory ones aren't expensive, welding rod is cheaper but less reliable in my expereince.

Have you got the truck yet?

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

yea generally you have to do something really stupid to break anything like my example

Get a Safari, they're built a lot tougher, especially the diffs. And they don't have enough grunt to break anything anyway unless you do a few mods to the donkey.

Right, hard hat on.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Get a Safari, they're built a lot tougher, especially the diffs. And they don't have enough grunt to break anything anyway unless you do a few mods to the donkey.

Right, hard hat on.

No comment

I pick it up this afternoon

what colour is it? I owned a white one with PTO - lined with green plastic over the carpet