Thread: Anyone know their way around 200 Series Landcruises?

I am looking to update my 2004 100 Series VX Ltd Landcruiser 180K. Mechanically it is sound but starting to show its age cosmetically. I am looking at 200 Series. There seems to be 2 price brackets.

2008-9 VX LTD 250-300K $55K

2012-13 VX LTD 125-150K $80K

What would you do given the problems with the earlier engines and oil consumption? Is it worth spending the extra for lower Kms and newer everything else.

Before some of you say buy a Ranger been there done that when I was on the tools, they are utes not SUVs. Ride and comfort levels just don't compare.

Thanks for your thoughts

Frist of all,
I don't know much about LandCruiser but I have one of those
LC 200 series about 10+ years old
have had it for about 3 years, Jap import and has 85k on the clock now
used to drive a ute before then.

It a 4+ liters petrol and never encounter any mechanical issue (touch wood)
so neither was my ute or ute's.

The issue that I have with it

-- Since I have a 35' mud tire on it, the towbar height is a lot higher than tandem coupler
+ auto suspension makes it worse when towing (even in sport mode)
so if you tow tandem often, keep that in mind.

-- it has so many electronic buttons, I have to Google them.
e.g. 2nd start... what the b**p is 2nd start but it's a useful button at the farm.

So yeah so far so good...

The wag in me says Everest? Haha... Although is there any reason the equivalent Nissan isn't on your radar? Options are good...

Main issue I have with the Landcrab in general is they are getting to be an older vehicle now, not only expensive to buy for what they are but expensive to stable feed and treat when things go wrong and tend to produce a lot of crap that you need to shovel which really appeases the greenies. Also with the expense of servicing some owners tended to take the Toyota rep and try extending service intervals which these did not like - but if that's the way you are keen to go the best option is pick the vehicle and buy on maintenance history, condition, price and known history rather than best wishes and long stories. Pay someone to inspect the vehicle before you buy it, and include the internal inspection around the turbo manifolds and systems so you know what you're looking at. In other words you want the cheapest you can get in the best condition you can get and hope like hell you don't have to do a full oil system rebuild or worse. Cruisers as you've noted seem to be marketed on age rather than condition, work and mileage - but one that's been used as a soccer bus vs one that's towed 3 tons of horseflesh for 500,000Km which would be the better pick?

Another comment I will make is that the Ranger is very much improved by a suspension upgrade, and internal comfort is fine in the front pews especially in the latest iterations. Rear seat with it's very upright back is an issue though. I don't really rate the landcruiser in it's factory form as vastly more comfortable than the ranger I have with aftermarket suspension in it, and vehicle for vehicle the cruiser is 20-35K more expensive. Cruiser is definitely noiser inside and a lot more hungry on diesel doing the same work for the ones I've experience of. Maintenance costs on a par with the Ranger, and for the slight increase in power they don't seem to be any quicker or better at towing.

The earlier ones did use oil. It was fine though if you just cut the service interval down. They also had issues with air not being filtered properly and wearing the turbine fins in the turbos. The newer ones have this sorted with an improved air filtration system. I think there was an issue with the air filter box or something.

Look for a good service history. Look at the towbar and back bumper to see if it has done a lot of towing.

I would have one tomorrow if I could afford it. I've thought quite a bit about selling my 70 series to get a 200 just for the extra grunt ( 70 series 151kw, 200 series is over 200KW I think)

These things are going to hold their value in the coming years in NZ starts limiting the number of hi luxes being imported.

Wouldn't touch 1 without new vehicle warranty.
And I work for the brand...

They suck dust in and f**k themselves. 38k to replace the donkey and hairdryers.
We've done heaps.

They're also 1 of the most sluggish lethargic motors toyota ever produced.
Mates old 45 cruiser with a 4cyl 13bt produces more torque.

Oh and the egr system blocks everything up badly and then you can wring your wallet more to fix it.

My personal opinion is stick with your 100 series.
Far superior motor!!

Originally Posted by cambo

My personal opinion is stick with your 100 series.
Far superior motor!!

There you go.

Originally Posted by Snap 4T

2nd start... what the b**p is 2nd start but it's a useful button at the farm.

Without hijacking the op..
2nd start is for when driving in slippery conditions like snow and ice. Trans starts off in 2nd rather than 1st to help prevent wheel spin.

Buy a low km one with a service history you’ll be fine. I’ve had 2, last sold with 360km and this one 312km, looking to upgrade this winter to a 16’ newer. Neither cost me anything other than services and usual wear and tear items. A service at my local costs around $300. Keep the oil fresh and air filter clean and sealed. Clean diesel is just as important as any other CRD. I average 13.6l/100kms, that’s mostly country road driving and towing 2-3 days a week. I run 33 inch tyres with bars and lift etc. I’ve had 3 100 series as well and the 200 is a much better vehicle if you use them for what they’re designed for, towing, off-road, long distance driving. New ute’s don’t even come close to their comfort and ability off road. Most people that have an opinion have never owned one. Most people that come with me on a trip want one when they go

Originally Posted by JoshC

Buy a low km one with a service history you’ll be fine. I’ve had 2, last sold with 360km and this one 312km, looking to upgrade this winter to a 16’ newer. Neither cost me anything other than services and usual wear and tear items. A service at my local costs around $300. Keep the oil fresh and air filter clean and sealed. Clean diesel is just as important as any other CRD. I average 13.6l/100kms, that’s mostly country road driving and towing 2-3 days a week. I run 33 inch tyres with bars and lift etc. I’ve had 3 100 series as well and the 200 is a much better vehicle if you use them for what they’re designed for, towing, off-road, long distance driving. New ute’s don’t even come close to their comfort and ability off road. Most people that have an opinion have never owned one. Most people that come with me on a trip want one when they go

What he said, our services cost us just under $300, can't be compared to any modern utes, buy the best you can afford. Regularly tow 3.5 tons all around the country with the trials truck in no worries at all.

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The 33" feet do a huge amount to improve ride - I've never owned a SUV body due to the fact I needed a separate compartment in back for the DG's. But the guys I worked with have had them, and comparing factory feet there isn't a huge amount of difference in ride between SUV and ute and that's with a riding in in one and out in the other sort of deal. Rear seat in the SUV is def better. Suspension upgrades do a lot for you, lift with suspension upgrade and tyre size increase is a whole different step up in ride quality. There's a considerable difference in ride comfort and noise/harshness between my Ranger with a minor lift and suspension stiffen for towing on factory tyres, and the mates with a full lift, suspension, 33's and worked with a chip fitted. His is quite a step up over mine to be honest, but it's close to 9K of work and bits.

As far as off road ability - the lifted Ranger on 33's does everything the crabs do in my experience with the exception of it is slightly longer so ramp over angle is not quite as good and rear departure angle is definitely not as good. He's clipped the left rear guard departing one hole that the SUV-type vehicles easily cleared. On the plus side, the utes with their separate tray means that it isn't such a drama to sort. I think the Ranger/BT50 twins as one option are actually slightly wider than the Cruisers as well. I notice that issue with my ute accessing work areas especially while towing. Benefit with the ute over the cruisers is about 4L/100Km better fuel economy - that adds up. Don't know why that is such a thing as it's a big difference but it's fairly close to the figures over the vehicles I've been involved in.

If you want a SUV body it's a good call, but with the modern utes and SUV's comparing apples with apples in terms of upgrades etc means there isn't the difference people expect or another way a factory ute vs a factory SUV there isn't a huge amount in it in my experience.

Interesting Cambo's comments on the 200's engine setup, that would explain why you don't experience the performance benefit you would think from the paper ratings of each vehicle comparing the Ranger and the 200's (154Kw vs circa 200Kw rated).

One point with the ute's - higher load capacity inside the vehicle. And I use all of that at times as well as trying to tow - gotta be careful with GVM at times. The main issue with factory utes - the suspension they come with is rated for an empty vehicle cruising on blacktop. Strut front is OK, but upgraded it's much better. The leafs at the rear is where it all falls over, the factory Ranger/BT50's coming out on 3 leafs and an overload plate is just BS. I inverted my springs and turned them into a frown just with a canopy, a ute drawer, a towbar and some bags in the boot. Bump stops planted hard on the chassis... Now it's sitting on a 7 leaf and overload plate pack, each leaf good for slightly less weight but the overall pack is now much more compliant and much slower to engage the overload plate and the bump stops. A side order is the traction control system engages a lot more gently and without the crash and bang that it had on the factory leaf pack.

Things I would do if I got a 200? EGR mods to help keep the intake manifolds clean, snorkel as this lifts the intake up out of the dusty areas and out from under the hot and dusty bonnet. I'm not sure if the 200's airbox is the upgraded cyclonic type that helps biff dust out but if that would fit that would also be something I'd consider... The other is fuel filter at every service or a fuel prefilter and water alarm kit and also reducing the service interval to a max of 10Km's if it's recommended is 15...

Originally Posted by No.3

The 33" feet do a huge amount to improve ride - I've never owned a SUV body due to the fact I needed a separate compartment in back for the DG's. But the guys I worked with have had them, and comparing factory feet there isn't a huge amount of difference in ride between SUV and ute and that's with a riding in in one and out in the other sort of deal. Rear seat in the SUV is def better. Suspension upgrades do a lot for you, lift with suspension upgrade and tyre size increase is a whole different step up in ride quality. There's a considerable difference in ride comfort and noise/harshness between my Ranger with a minor lift and suspension stiffen for towing on factory tyres, and the mates with a full lift, suspension, 33's and worked with a chip fitted. His is quite a step up over mine to be honest, but it's close to 9K of work and bits.

As far as off road ability - the lifted Ranger on 33's does everything the crabs do in my experience with the exception of it is slightly longer so ramp over angle is not quite as good and rear departure angle is definitely not as good. He's clipped the left rear guard departing one hole that the SUV-type vehicles easily cleared. On the plus side, the utes with their separate tray means that it isn't such a drama to sort. I think the Ranger/BT50 twins as one option are actually slightly wider than the Cruisers as well. I notice that issue with my ute accessing work areas especially while towing. Benefit with the ute over the cruisers is about 4L/100Km better fuel economy - that adds up. Don't know why that is such a thing as it's a big difference but it's fairly close to the figures over the vehicles I've been involved in.

If you want a SUV body it's a good call, but with the modern utes and SUV's comparing apples with apples in terms of upgrades etc means there isn't the difference people expect or another way a factory ute vs a factory SUV there isn't a huge amount in it in my experience.

Interesting Cambo's comments on the 200's engine setup, that would explain why you don't experience the performance benefit you would think from the paper ratings of each vehicle comparing the Ranger and the 200's (154Kw vs circa 200Kw rated).

One point with the ute's - higher load capacity inside the vehicle. And I use all of that at times as well as trying to tow - gotta be careful with GVM at times. The main issue with factory utes - the suspension they come with is rated for an empty vehicle cruising on blacktop. Strut front is OK, but upgraded it's much better. The leafs at the rear is where it all falls over, the factory Ranger/BT50's coming out on 3 leafs and an overload plate is just BS. I inverted my springs and turned them into a frown just with a canopy, a ute drawer, a towbar and some bags in the boot. Bump stops planted hard on the chassis... Now it's sitting on a 7 leaf and overload plate pack, each leaf good for slightly less weight but the overall pack is now much more compliant and much slower to engage the overload plate and the bump stops. A side order is the traction control system engages a lot more gently and without the crash and bang that it had on the factory leaf pack.

Things I would do if I got a 200? EGR mods to help keep the intake manifolds clean, snorkel as this lifts the intake up out of the dusty areas and out from under the hot and dusty bonnet. I'm not sure if the 200's airbox is the upgraded cyclonic type that helps biff dust out but if that would fit that would also be something I'd consider... The other is fuel filter at every service or a fuel prefilter and water alarm kit and also reducing the service interval to a max of 10Km's if it's recommended is 15...

Mine is an early one, but I've still done the fuel pre filter and exhaust mods.

Change oil every 5000 kms. grease every 2500. diff and g box oil every 25000 kms.

changes all fluids at 100k. including coolant, clutch and brake fluid.

150,000 kms so far no issues

What engine dp you have in your 100 series?

Thanks for the thoughts guys. Just for shits and giggles I have also looked at the 2020 Prado $75K ish and 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee. $55K ish depending on spec and Kms. Much newer wagons with better electronics and spec. I find it hard to go past the big 4.5L engine on the Landcruiser. Maybe I am sentimental. I have owned an older Jeep GC and the v6 3L Turbo diesel went like a cut cat. I never used it to tow my 6.5M boat so that is a consideration. That 7hr tow from AKL to Waihau Bay is a big day on the road.