I figured I may as well spring for stainless and have it last?
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I figured I may as well spring for stainless and have it last?
Depends on the build priceQuote:
Originally Posted by gimp
What would a build price be for a stainless exhaust, approx? I have never done one
went for a bit of boulder hopping out on the Hoki riverbed today below the gorge
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psc8shnyas.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pscidbnoxl.jpg
dam i need to get my boat done
You will get a boat there but might not get it back to the trailer in one piece.😆
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It's only a little boat:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
So was mine😆
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...was?Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
I made it back to the trailer but the rock garden just below that pic of yours, cost me a bit knocking some rather large dents out.😆
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Got bored after work so I cleaned, degreased, kill-rusted, and repainted the inside of the rear wheel arches with rattle-can rubberised underbody liner. Hopefully reduces road noise a bit and keeps the rust away for a while
Before
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psg8dgapqe.jpg
Prefect use for plot sheets, water proof and all.
Glad wrap also works... And no need to buy tape....
Is fish oil good or a waste of time? Sprayed a rattlecan of it all over my wheel wells and chassis, makes the chassis look nice and black haha and water seems to be beading off nicely
Doesn't last that long
Heres your two best new friends. This is good shit. Buy a carton of each you will not regret it
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I have just partially restored this
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Its is now so quiet and sealed up The transformation is incredible.
Mind you it used to look like this . Ha ha 1 Owner 1987 142ooo Kms . Got told I m a mongrel but there you go .
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Sent it for a service and two of the guys asked me who did I use for the new under seal job
Secret is no flaky bits. Apply heaps over a period of time not all at once. Do the anti rust and leave it for a week before under seal.
But don't go in the river that week !!
Flood it but slowly !!!
Nice zuki mate
Sent from the swamp
Thanks only prob now the big block 1300 is a little under poweredQuote:
Originally Posted by chrome
Chuck a big block g16 under the hood. Although I have a mate with a 1800cc Nissan serena diesel turbo in his one.
Sent from the swamp
Park it in the river mouth it should be good burly to attract Kahawai.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
I put that fish oil stuff on the deck of my xr6 before I put a tuff deck thing on it.
I sold it 9 mths later, not a spec of rust on it that I could see.:)
Fish oil is pretty good, I did mine yearly when I lived on the beach in the spray zone. First vehicle rusted within months whilst there, second one was fish oiled from day dot and no issues
You can make your own kit for the transfer to gearbox oil return. Drill two holds in the current fill plugs and fit brass nipples and a length of rubber fuel line with hose clamps.
a couple of weeks later "after" of the wheel arches. probably really need to get it up on some axle stands and do repeated coats. will be ok for now though.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psc7kszpwd.jpg
also got a used hi-lift off trademe, and a spare wheel mount for it. Had to mount the jack upside-down otherwise it didn't fit without ruining my angles
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psatikqnjj.jpg
Gearbox oil leak seems moderately severe, there's a big stain on the concrete under it after 9 days without moving. Going to do a bit more work on the winch housing in the next couple of weeks
Also have a real sag from back to front, assuming it's been lifted at some point looking at it, if a nylon winch rope & losing the weight of the steel rope doesn't even it up I might have to buy new springs for the front end
I agree with Tussock. There are no short cuts in suspension and if you just get the springs reset it only lasts a short time. Buy new springs, shocks and bushes. New suspension bushes can make a big difference to how well it handles if the old ones are stuffed.
Did you fix the diff leak? It's been years but I think you can do the pinion seal without disassembling the diff. Take driveshaft off, undo big nut on diff and take off the flange on that then pop a new seal in. Carefully do big nut up again back to the same place it was (mark it before undoing it). Cruiser diffs are meant to leak though so in general just top it up.
There is a whole art and science to rusty cruiser bolts. Heat it red hot with the propane torch and then spray crc on it. The heating and rapid cooling cycle breaks the bond on the rust and the cooling of the crc hitting bolt sucks it into the thread. Work the bolt back and forwards for a bit so the crc works into the thread and then undo carefully. Not breaking them is a lot easier than getting the broken bolt out!
I brought a large set of the most common sized of bolts with captive washers from a panelbeater supply place. Before reassembling I run a tap through the old captive nut in the chassis and then put in a brand new plated bolt with either anti seize or locktight on it.
Yeah I did the pinion seal, it was no dramas, took about an hour and a half. Still seems to have a slight seep from somewhere, thinking the pinion flange might be a little work
I will have to get a propane torch. Sick of breaking bolts. Anyone know where I can get a big bag 'o landcruiser bolts? Seem to be heaps of those short ones with the 14mm head
re rust in the body. Has anyone tried attaching sacrificial zinc anodes to avoid rust. This is the same premise that is used on steel hulled sea going vessels. I think that zinc wheel weights might do the trick.
you can buy a whole electronic setup that attatches to the chassis and somehow stops it rusting. they seem quite common in the aussie 4x4 magazines
Is the breather blocked?Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Or a grove where the seal runs
Heating and cooling it is the secret. The bolt expands at a different rate than the nut\chassie that it's bolted to so the expansion\contraction cycle breaks the rust weld between bolt and nut. Do this first and then apply lubricant so the lubricant can get into the thread. Run a tap through the captive nut afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
I brought a whole box of those short 14mm bolts with captive washers from a panelbeater supply place so ask around. It's lots simpler than trying to save the old ones.
I did some work on my FJ40 over the weekend after parking it up for 4 years. I at least need a new radiator and breaks but at least the engine still turns over...
Does anyone have the faintest idea what sort of offset I need on 15" rims for this beast? & what width I need for 31x10.5 tyres? (assuming like 8")
15x8 -19 offset is what I put on my BJ70 Cruza. With 31x10.5 the tyre walls just poked out of the guards, which is ok. VTNZ don't like tread past the guard line.
+1 what Mathias said. You want 15x8 inch rims for an off roader as a small diameter means more rubber sidewall to soak up the bumps. You want a narrow rim so the sidewall baloones out otherwise the edge between the tyre and the rim is exposed and crap get in there and causes a flat when you are 4wding through ruts etc...
Tyres for 16" rims seem to cost more anyway. Have 15xsomething at the moment, just considering whether to repaint or just buy new rims
It was cheaper for me to change from 16" to new 15" rims and tyres than just get 16" tyres. Get better selection and cushioning with the 15".Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Picked up the truck today after having some bits fabbed up and installed for the winch housing, I figured I may as well get the snorkel installed at the same time since I was going to be out of town and not have time to do it. Looks good, shit myself at the price. Gotta buy me an arc welder.... Spooled up the new dyneema winch rope. Still gotta get around to re-installing the bash plates for under the winch, radiator etc, but the mods to the winch housing look to have improved the approach angle a fair bit. Need to find a better spot for the license plate
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pscufgncvu.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psmhi2kd3s.jpg
You are now lacking a picnic table for when you stop for lunch.
True, that is one downside. Maybe I'll hang a fold-down table on one of the rear doors. I can make it when I buy a welder.
Just chuck the plate inside the windscreen :)
If you do that make sure you fix it down....saw a farmer in Namibia all most scalp him self when the plate that he had on the dash board smaked him one when he hit a Kudu:x_x:Quote:
Originally Posted by 199p
