It was probably turned up to compensate for sucking air threw the seal, back it off a tiny tiny bit at a time until you just get a light haze.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
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It was probably turned up to compensate for sucking air threw the seal, back it off a tiny tiny bit at a time until you just get a light haze.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Hey what do you know, playing with the fuel screw seems to have fixed it mostly. I guess Miles Toyota turned it up to compensate for the rough idle from the leaking fuel filter primer when I had the IP leak fixed. It still had the factory wire seal on the adjustment screw so I figured it hadn't been touched but backing off a quarter turn significantly reduced smoke with no difference in drivability
That's good gimp,
Now you can tune your throttle feel/power/fuel economy to your own liking.
Don't you just hate that you think your doing the old girl a favour and she consumes more :x_x:
Ha sounds like my wife.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Brave man there :ORLY:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin358
my fuel economy seems to be back to normal with no noticeable smoke under load now.
I went for a drive yesterday, to try shoot a deer. Couldn't walk very far past where I drove to as the river was extremely flooded. Saw an 8 point stag. Didn't shoot it. Noticed a bit of a clunk in the suspension though on the way home.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ps0tmvvnag.jpg
Oh I guess that's not meant to look like that
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psdrgwebdq.jpg
Who needs sway bars anyway?
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ps3rlu715n.jpg
Also got around to pulling off the PTO drive. Before:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psjl2f429r.jpg
Hey I can see inside my transfer case (and it looks like it's about 1.5 litres low on oil, whoops)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psbbm5k8fq.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psl292rahc.jpg
After. Shiny. Better not leak. Probably need to get some RTV on the gasket at some point
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pshw2qqxli.jpg
The problem with removing the PTO drive was that I had a massive gaping hole in my transmission tunnel afterwards
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ps6hk4ezzf.jpg
So I got stuck into some CAD. Only scrap sheetmetal I had lying around was a fucked front panel from the Corolla. Perfect, it's supposed to be automotive parts and it's even Toyota OEM
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psaglyhvlv.jpg
A squirt of primer, some precisely drilled holes and a bit of vacuum tube as a seal later, almost looks good enough to be hidden under the carpet forever
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psc1zapxx7.jpg
Anyone want to buy a lightly used PTO winch setup? It works
Since this is a hunting forum, here is the 8 point stag
Attachment 59914
speaking of Corolla panels, I put it back together too
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psocdczp4t.jpg
Ominous signs. A family car.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
2 door, and I ripped out the back seats...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
That's to fit the dog in eh...Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
And still room for the bassinetQuote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
Jesus man that ain't a minivan
in other news the cruiser appears to have improved articulation since I dumped the sway bar and handles much the same on the road (like a boat)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pszcsti3m4.jpg
I just bought a mint 70 series, how much for the winch setupQuote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Would let it go for 650. Prefer pickup, it's massive and shipping would be a nightmare - where in the country are you?
"apparently" it's "illegal" to remove your sway bar. balls. anyone got a single bracket floating around
Dont tell the 1000s of others who took them out and threw them away.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
I even did it to my 2wd moutain biking ute....amazing where that could climb.
Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
Failed WOF on no sway bar, windscreen crack (bottom left), vertical play in tie rod ends
Sway bar is going on for WOF then off again til next WOF. Or until I get cert for none
Carterton, but thats a bit much at the moment,
thanks
Got a new windscreen last week and ordered sway bar bits and whatnot. Chucked the sway bar back on tonight with shiny new links and brackets (which will remain shiny in my garage, not attached to anything for the next 6 months) and did the tie rod and relay rod ends. I'm not convinced there was anything wrong with the tie rod ends but the WOF sheet says "Excessive play" so may as well replace them, and the relay rod ends also because a) it's unclear whether the mechanic would differentiate between the tie rod and relay rod and b) the first tie rod end kit I found came with both. Need an alignment probably but WOF'd again
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pswp2m3jri.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psluxshsbm.jpg
Anti-seize EVERYTHING
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pszsygz87v.jpg
My gearbox (like presumably all H55Fs) has a leak between the transfer case and the gearbox where all the oil migrates from one to the other then starts leaking out. I bought a hose that connects the filler bungs of both to allow the oil levels to even out between them. It's maybe a bit long. I'm not sure how well it will work with the way I've had to route it.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pswfivhqv1.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psouubggum.jpg
The hose needs to remain lower than the oil level for the oil to move between the gearbox and transfer case. Do both run the same grade oil?
My land cruiser is auto so I am unsure
It is pretty straight forward to drop the transfer case off the box and replace the seals.
Yeah I'm going to run it lower when I put the bash plate back on under there. It's super long and would be fuck near dragging on the road if I routed it under the box without the bash plate. Both run 80/90Quote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
Gimp just remove one side of the sway Bar Bolt. The whole assembly doesnt have to be completely removed for it to work as if it isn't there. Just the one Bolt (your second pic)
How is that hose connected to the fittings?Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Can you cut it to the right size and reconnect them? Or take it into someone like hose and hydraulics in greymouth and get Evan to make you one the right size
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
looks like a push lock barb, should be able to cut off carefully trim to length and push back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiddy
It turns out it's just a push in barb fitting with no locking at all, shortened it.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psc5thqmg8.jpg
Also tested the flex with the sway bar attached and it's still able to get up on my half metre high front porch without lifting any wheels
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pspv6nnbss.jpg
Probably good enough but it's come off anyway, it's annoying breaking the brackets & makes zero difference on the road.
Hope to give it a good workout on the east coast next week now
That transfer box is looking to shiny, needs a nice layer of mud over your new hose as well!
Today is 1 year since I bought a Landcruiser! Drove to the East Coast a couple of days ago to go hunting but the river decided to rise rapidly (after I checked the levels at home) and stayed too high to cross safely, so I came home after shooting some rabbits in the riverbed. Back to about 10.6L/100km now for highway driving since adjusting the fuel.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ps0dj8aeuo.jpg
boooo
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psys8w0ld7.png
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psrgg7gbtt.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pscu4wi805.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psoubj5fg0.jpg
Truck went great for as far up the river as I could go.
Noticed on the highway that the temp gauge was getting quite high when uphill or into strong headwinds, have never really noticed much movement in it previously - perhaps the ARB bar blocks the airflow? Was hot weather also. Anyway decided to pull out the air conditioning condenser since the aircon doesn't work and I don't really want it, and the condenser blocks some airflow to the radiator. Pulled the whole lot out including idle up VSV, compressor, etc - just the stuff under the dash remains.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psxzq3csep.jpg
Found a leak in the radiator core. There's also the beginnings of a weep around the bottom hose barb thing so I guess either repairs or a new radiator are in my future.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psivg32d0g.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pshrc1n9ci.jpg
So much extra space in the engine bay!
Have noticed I need new shocks and have a leak from my power steering box to fix.
Good hose down should get rid of the cobwebs,all that crap won't be doing the cooling any favours.
Yeah that's on the to-do list
Used to blow my rads out with the air compressor in Namibia once a day! As you would end up with a lot of insect life and dust etc, works really well and helps in keeping the air flowing. Just do it from the back ah, then your not pushing any seed etc into the rad. Keep some matches in your glove box just incase it springs a leak when your in the back country and egg can also save your bacon.
What's the story with the matches?
So you can set fire to it and cook some eggs on the bonnet :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nibblet
Is that the best resort when the gear box goes pop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibo
Yes but I've never been one to do the best thing :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nibblet
If you have a pin hole leak you can put a match stick in and it will swell and block off the leak. Have used this on quite large holes to get me out of trouble especially in desert environments :O_O: seems to be a shortage of water there for some reason?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibblet
You need to be careful placing bigger bits in as they will tear the rad a bigger hole:O_O:
