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  • 4 Post By MSL
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Thread: Snow chain suggestions

  1. #1
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    Snow chain suggestions

    Never needed them so know f all about em , except what vehicle manual says - fit to rear if only 1 set( pajero 4x4)

    Suggestions on make, and pattern, ladder or diamond , can't see using them a lot

  2. #2
    MSL
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    Fit to rear? Surely fit to the steering wheels in a 4wd


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Chains on all six wheels is really the only way to go

    Name:  Aug 2011 chains.JPG
Views: 191
Size:  82.5 KB

    But for the average punter that does not have a 6.5L V8 diesel on tap under the bonnet, going uphill with only ones set of chains you need them on the rear, and going down you need them on the front.

    Diamond on the front and ladder on the rear is the best setup for a combination of steering and traction, but just about all IFS 4x4s these days did not design the suspension/steering geometry on the front axles to take chains. There is simply not enough room between the rubber and the drag links or tie rod ends. You can rip the rubber boots off the ball joints in a flash.

    By chains, I mean real, steel twisted link chains. Not any of those plastic loop jobbies. They may fit, but they will not provide much traction in comparison
    Last edited by XR500; 25-03-2024 at 11:35 AM.
    7mmsaum and Micky Duck like this.

  4. #4
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    Was just about to say that - modern vehicles WATCH OUT for the ABS sensor cables and fittings as there really isn't the same amount of clearance that there used to be in the good old days. Especially up front!

    Apart from that, if you are going to fit them get shown with the set up you get and then make sure they are on correctly and won't slip/flail in use. Some are easier to correctly tension than others with the securing design and those are the ones you want. Rip an ABS sensor cable out on some vehicles and you need to be towed home, some of them won't let you start the engine if they can't get anything off an ABS sensor...

  5. #5
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    the snow chains with plastic loop around the outside are quick and easy to use..will get you out of the shit (or into it if push it) for the once or twice a year user are probably the best option.... will work exceptionally well on icy roads..it is after all what they made for..and will help/add traction on muddy track...not as good as a big heavy dedicated off road set,but nothing is or costs the same....
    we have set of the plastic looped snow chains in the car all the time..can only recall using them twice in 15 years but both times would have needed tow if didnt have them...grassy spot beside ruataniwha lake.....and muddy boat ramp at opuha .fitted them both times after loss of traction meant werent going anywhere,drove straight out both times.
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  6. #6
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    As said above, if youre gonna fork out for decent chains, ladder on the back and diamond on the front. And the good heavy mother's, not those dainty little things you buy at Supercheap. Keep it really simple, do them up firm using the throw over levers, then use some bungies made from old tubes and bungy up the outside to pull things tight. The hooks on your bungies need to be good solid ones and preferable to have a small hook for hooking on to the chain. Try them at home before you go anywhere, and use a small dee shackle to tie off the excess chain on the inside, dont want that flapping around, ABS sensors or not. Use one of the bungy hooks to take up the slack end on the outside. I've used chains front and rear for skifeild transport and use ladder chains front and back cos you dont have to sort out the front chains from the back, same all round.

  7. #7
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    I've always got whatever I needed from Chain Protection here in CHCH
    https://secure.zeald.com/chains/Snow...3XgyvnVf24K3Rm
    Trout, Mistral, Gillie and 1 others like this.
    Life is natures way of keeping meat fresh

  8. #8
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    TX all

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR500 View Post
    Chains on all six wheels is really the only way to go

    Attachment 246668

    But for the average punter that does not have a 6.5L V8 diesel on tap under the bonnet, going uphill with only ones set of chains you need them on the rear, and going down you need them on the front.

    Diamond on the front and ladder on the rear is the best setup for a combination of steering and traction, but just about all IFS 4x4s these days did not design the suspension/steering geometry on the front axles to take chains. There is simply not enough room between the rubber and the drag links or tie rod ends. You can rip the rubber boots off the ball joints in a flash.

    By chains, I mean real, steel twisted link chains. Not any of those plastic loop jobbies. They may fit, but they will not provide much traction in comparison
    The front end of that defender must sink like a stone in mud or snow with that big bit of engine in the front? Just curious...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad S View Post
    The front end of that defender must sink like a stone in mud or snow with that big bit of engine in the front? Just curious...
    Not a Defender....Series 3, Stage 1 V8. So leaf suspension. Out with a 350lb alloy V8 and in with a 350kg cast iron V8, so just added a 3rd, 3rd leaf. Manual steering, so you do need to have had your wheetbix for breakfast..

    And no, it didn't sink appreciably more than when it was petrol powered.

    It does however throw entire tussock clumps a long long way when all three diffs are locked, wearing six chains and the engine is bouncing off the rev limiter in third low
    Micky Duck and Bobba like this.

  11. #11
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    Ha that sounds fun. You'd need front and rear diff upgrades pretty quick! I blew a rear diff the other day with just 200tdi power

  12. #12
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    Both wear ARB diff locks. Front half shafts were a special competition run, rears are standard. Twisted one 3/4 of a turn, but never broken one. But have tried

 

 

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