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Thread: Advice please: boot/crampon compatibility

  1. #1
    Member mopheadrob's Avatar
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    Advice please: boot/crampon compatibility

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    Bought some crampons on TradeMe because Iíd love to go tahr hunting one day. Donít worry, Iím not going to intentionally scale ice faces, I just donít want to get caught out without the necessary equipment.

    I know, I know - I should have done my research BEFORE buying, but they seemed like a good deal and I canít afford to buy from a shop. Bit of a spur-of-the-moment thing.

    Got them home and they donít seem to be a very firm fit. Do these ones need to be worn with proper mountaineering boots? Are my boots even able to have crampons fitted? If yes to both previous questions, what sort of crampons do I need to look out for?

  2. #2
    Member stug's Avatar
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    Yep those crampons need proper mountaineering boots. Take your boots into bivouac and they will sell you the right sort.

    You need ones like this

    https://www.furtherfaster.co.nz/coll...ssice-flex-bar

    https://www.bivouac.co.nz/gear/climb...-with-abs.html

    Basically one with straps (not the bar) over the toe and not the big cammy thing for the heel.

    I donít know how experienced you are but ALWAYS carry an ice axe in your hand when wearing crampons. Go and learn how to use them BEFORE you go thar hunting.
    Last edited by stug; 19-12-2021 at 07:12 AM.
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  3. #3
    Member Happy Jack's Avatar
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    What @stug says you need full shank boots and a crampon like this I have an older version of these and they are well used. Get an ice axe and then go on an alpine course. Also get balling plates well worth the extra few dollars.

  4. #4
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    Unless you intend to get into full on alpinism, perhaps something a bit lighter and simpler might be the go. These might fit the bill?

    https://www.bivouac.co.nz/black-diam...on-device.html
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  5. #5
    Member stug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7x64 View Post
    Unless you intend to get into full on alpinism, perhaps something a bit lighter and simpler might be the go. These might fit the bill?

    https://www.bivouac.co.nz/black-diam...on-device.html
    They would be ok for walking on an icy track but pretty useless once you get on steep ground.
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  6. #6
    Member Hahn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7x64 View Post
    Unless you intend to get into full on alpinism, perhaps something a bit lighter and simpler might be the go. These might fit the bill?

    https://www.bivouac.co.nz/black-diam...on-device.html
    +1 this is what you're after for tahr hunting. I have a set of the kovea ones. Just be careful with rocks on the sides of your boot cutting the rubber against a rock. They are nice and light and you'll stay on your feet. They work on rocks and ice on steep stuff as well, they make a huge difference.

    You don't really want to be mountain climbing in ice axe country anyway especially after you get one and load up your pack.

  7. #7
    Member mopheadrob's Avatar
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    Thanks all! It is as I feared... anyone want to buy a cheap pair of mountaineering crampons before they go back on TradeMe?

    I've been browsing AliExpress and there are a few lookalikes to the ones you suggest, @stug. Are crampons one of those items you don't want to risk your neck on cheap crappy gear, or would anything be better than nothing? Looking at these ones.

    I'd wondered about something like that, @7x64 & @Hahn. Nice & compact. I wasn't sure if they would give enough bite around the edges, but possibly better for general bumbling about.

    Yep, got an axe already. An alpine course sounds like a good idea, @Happy Jack.

  8. #8
    Member GravelBen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mopheadrob View Post
    I've been browsing AliExpress and there are a few lookalikes to the ones you suggest, @stug. Are crampons one of those items you don't want to risk your neck on cheap crappy gear, or would anything be better than nothing? Looking at these ones.

    I wouldn't risk it personally, if a crampon fails when you're in a dicey spot...


    Funny story sidetrack...

    I was mountaineering once with a mate, climbing a steep snow face (where the top of Somnus Couloir opens out onto face for anyone who knows the North Routeburn... bound to be someone here who has been there).

    We had left the rope and harnesses etc at the bottom to save weight because it was perfect snow conditions for kicking big easy steps... at the bottom.

    By the time we got onto the face in question the snow was much more hard frozen icy. So we were soloing unroped on front-points of crampons and swinging ice axes on about a 55į slope, but not too concerned as we were climbing well within our abilities and could see the grade flatten off 100m or so above us.

    I was was moving a bit faster and got maybe 40-50m above my buddy, and it was at that point that one of his crampons (Petzl ones with the unusual side-locking lever they used for a while, for anyone who cares) spontaneously detached itself from his boot and leave him standing on one foot unable to move, with the crampon hanging from the ankle strap. I hear a voice from below "um, do you think come back down and give me a hand?" ... uh oh

    He was starting to get a bit shaky by the time I downclimbed, chipped a ledge to stand on and reattached his crampon to his boot so he could move again.

    We called it a day and went back down the hill to eat bacon, but it could have ended quite badly.

  9. #9
    Member Hahn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huntfisheat View Post
    No they're not. These are campons, useful around camp and norhing but fucking dangerous for any thing other than that.
    Where do these suggestions come from? Pig hunters maybe?
    If your climbing on points with axes and ropes I reckon your in the wrong place. You got to go back down that when your pack is loaded up to 35kg plus. Op wants to hunt, id suggest learn to climb a mountain another day. That's why simple and light fits the bill. Keeps you slipping over but not siding down a mountain face. My 2c.

  10. #10
    Member Hahn's Avatar
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    Not a pig hunter up here but hard work with just rubber soles on wet rock.

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  11. #11
    sneakywaza I got
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    @mopheadrob - I've got what you need, same brand, but for regular shanked boots - catching up with Moa over the break, he can bring them back.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hahn View Post
    +1 this is what you're after for tahr hunting. I have a set of the kovea ones. Just be careful with rocks on the sides of your boot cutting the rubber against a rock. They are nice and light and you'll stay on your feet. They work on rocks and ice on steep stuff as well, they make a huge difference.

    You don't really want to be mountain climbing in ice axe country anyway especially after you get one and load up your pack.
    Fuck! What are you doing in the mountains going after Thar in runners?????? Even with spiky bits on. I wouldn't be seen dead in runners and spiky things anywhere near snow and ice......No, let me rephrase that. You WOULD be seen dead wearing those in snow and ice. Bivouac outdoor should be shot with a ball of their own shit for attempting to sell shit like that to budding mountaineers.

  13. #13
    Member Hahn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR500 View Post
    Fuck! What are you doing in the mountains going after Thar in runners?????? Even with spiky bits on. I wouldn't be seen dead in runners and spiky things anywhere near snow and ice......No, let me rephrase that. You WOULD be seen dead wearing those in snow and ice. Bivouac outdoor should be shot with a ball of their own shit for attempting to sell shit like that to budding mountaineers.
    Runners? As in shoes? Na we're all in boots. With spikes.
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  14. #14
    Member Hahn's Avatar
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    I'm not suggesting the spikes are a full crampon substitute as may be read. My suggestion follows on from @7x64 not to go into full alpinism but rather suggesting op hunt where you do not need to rely on crampons etc as safety equipment. Especially if you're not a mountaineer and intend to return heavy. The spikes are another tool just as instep crampons also have their place for some folk.

    Yes @Huntfisheat I agree, if you want to go hard then get the right gear.

    Those photo's are up the Whataroa, most of the way up follows a well used track then markers when it opens up. It can be easily hunted in just boots, at least when we were there in spring.

    As an aside: I had a workmate who did the Tongariro crossing on a team building ex kitted up with axe, crampons and a rope. That was hard case but each to their own.
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