https://www.fasttech.com/product/157...led-emitter-on
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Ok great thx a lot.
Cheers
The LED you linked is great with the dome on, but if you de-dome it (like you're planning to with the stock LED) it'll turn a yucky orange colour. When an LED is de-domed, the tint (colour) of the light shifts towards orange: the more orange you start off with, the more orange it'll be once de-domed. If the plan is to de-dome an LED you want a more white or blueish tint to start with. Google LED tints to get a better understanding of what I mean, or I could be here all night explaining it haha.
Basically, I don't recommend you de-dome the LED you linked, because I'd say you'll hate the colour of light (maybe a good idea to try it and see anyway). It is already 4500ish K which is quite a warm tint, de-doming it makes it really orange. A good LED to de-dome would have a stock tint of more like 6000K, and after you de-dome it should be more like 4000-5000k which is pretty much neutral white.
Hope that helps rather than confuses. :)
Like these
And they're pretty cheap.
And you can chose multiple board sizes.
And the seller is very reliable.
And nothing else for now
Edit: And if you fcuk up de-doming, you have spares :thumbsup:
That one is too far the other direction. You want something in the neutral area to slightly warm. When de-domed this will give something more in the Halogen colour which is a lot less glarey when reflected off particulate matter in the air. The warmer colour spooks animals less so they hold better for your shot.
what do you start with gadgetman?
The general consensus is generally to start with a 1a. That way it goes "halogen" and has no green in it. 1b and 1c go much greener usually.
Heaps of variation though, Vinh54 gets about 1/2 of his de domes tinted right and chucks the other half (or sells them for pittance) and im pretty sure thats from a 1a colour bin.
Chris
I've found that anything warmer than about 1A or 2A ends up too orange or green after a de-dome. I guess it depends on the use and what tint the user prefers to look at. Personally I hate green and really orange tints (and blue which most of them start at).
The T6-4C has an awesome tint with the dome ON - would be ideal if we could get a LED to match that tint after a de-dome :on fire:
The 4C is amazing.
I run it in all the biking and car lights I build. Its so close to car headlights.
Chris
Do these new LED's that come stock without a dome solve our problem? :o
They still have the cool white light so not so good for hunting. In the testing we've done a de-domed XM-L2 U4 running at 4.5A has the same light intensity as a flat top XP-L running at 6A, but because of the warmer hue the XM-L2 has much better throw and usability.
Do Maxtoch still supply the 18650 batteries? I'm sorta lost in the thread and somewhere it said that no one will ship them from there anymore? Was looking at getting some spares.... Thanks :-)
Can someone reccomend a decent charger to buy? Looking for a decent one as the current one won't fit the longer 18650's and I plan to keep this for a few years so it's worth investing in a decent one.
Nitecore D4 Universal. Around 45 to 50 buck. Awesome charger.
I found the Nitecore struggles with the long Panasonics but the grey Trustfire one works well. Sing out if you want one to try @MassiveAttack, I bought a bulk bag of them when there was a deal on.
whens the new maxtoch ready for sale?
Whats this shadowhawk light everyone is bleating about on facebook all about? Can blind a bear ha ha. Anyone got the inside goss? Im thinking bullcrap due to it coming from facebook
Yep testing finally finished today and we're very happy with new lightweight Maxtoch 2X. It is an absolute ripper!
This new model 2X is not just about a maximum lux (output) reading. We thoroughly tested various board/led setups and rejected some setups with higher lux but lower runtimes, wrong hunter tints, high output but inability to retain that output more than 2-3 minutes before stepdown to a lower mode etc.
In this new Maxtoch model we have gone for a very high level of overall hunter functionality. It has light weight (just 308gms), ideal beam type (flood plus very tight centre spot), ideal tint for optimum picture clarity downrange, mode outputs set for different hunter tasks, runtime choices, extreme range (round 1.2 kilometers), scope mounting plus handheld function, all mode memory, design to use standard 25mm rings, production quality, sub $100US price etc.
Very happy with this light - maybe a month or perhaps two max before its available. The led and board will also slot straight into the present M24 Sniper and upgrade that to 300k lux - brilliant little hunter.
What will it be worth approx mudgripz?
Unsure but Maxtoch keep prices down - maybe $85-90US delivered with carry bag, spares etc.
should i send my m24 up to gadget for a board change then?????
Not yet....
@mudgripz
Do you have detail on the driver boards with respect to the maximum input voltage they can receive?
I'm wanting to mount just the light head to my rifle, make a cap for the hole left when you unscrew the battery tube, and run wires from a Lipo pack in my backpack. Some of my hunting missions exceed the run time of 2 x 18650 cells, and carrying additional cells is a pita.
I have some 4S 14.8V Lipo's that I use with my HID lights.
Would be nice to get a much lighter light head on top of my scope if I could. The Maxtoch does not compare to output with the HID lights, but is not far off for anything but the really long distance stuff.
Have a chat with Brian (gadgetman) - he's the electronics engineer. Could be an interesting adaptation.
The latest 2X is set at 350k lux on high mode and medium is set at 260k. Low is set at 50k specifically for closer range, possums etc. Medium or 'hunter' mode at 260k lux still gives over 1000 meters max and 100+ minutes on continuous runtime. (Panasonic 3400s). So carrying a couple of spare sets in shirt pocket when using mostly medium will give alot of shooting.
If you're in Chch you are welcome to borrow the 2X prototype to have a play.
I seem to recall that it was set up for a maximum of 2 cells or 8.4V. Which torch model have you got? PM your address and I can send you a spare board for if it goes pear shaped.
@gadgetman - it a Sniper M24 with a XM-L2 LED.
I might just sell off the 16000mAh 4s lipo and get a couple of smaller 2s lipos to replace it.
I did a quick side by side with my 35W 6" HID, and with the upgrade looming for the Maxtoch, I think its game over for the HID light.
The trees are at 150M. Maxtoch on the left, Hid on the right
Attachment 48339
The hill is at 800M
HID
Attachment 48340
Maxtoch
Attachment 48341
Yes, we've ditched the spotlights. Has your Maxtoch been de-domed? To be honest I'd stick with batteries in the torch as it is a lot easier moving around, getting in and out of vehicles without wires. I find it much easier to pop a couple of batteries in the tube than get untangled.
Amazing photos Quentin - shows just how good the Maxtochs are. And there is a quick upgrade available for that little Maxtoch M24 torch which will pop it up another 30-35% in output. Can you put those photos into a youtube link - dam good reference.
The brand new model Maxtoch 2X we've just finished designing has huge 60-70% more output than the one in your test, and weighs only 308gms - nice and light for scope mounting or handheld.
This is why we have boxes of spotties including HIDs sitting in the shed. ;)
Where can i get one of the new maxtoch m24 torches ?
Thank you
Ooooh, more power!
Starting to sound like someone has found a box of xhp35 leds.
@mudgripz - you may need to elaborate on putting the images to a youtube link.
I'll be watching out for the Maxtoch 2X and upgrade for the M24.
No XHP leds :) When designing new hunter lights Brian and I always look at the range of new leds from Cree. There are some that have much higher lumen output then the XM-L2 U4s we now use - like MTG2, XHP35/50/70 etc. These things can produce 4000+ lumens, but if you want to increase light output its obviously going to use alot more power. So these high lumens torches need to run 3-4 18650s or a couple of bigger 26650 batts to operate = much more weight, non-standard tubes, high lumens (total light emitted) but lower lux (centre beam hotspot intensity), which means shorter range.
These high lumen leds make great fun lights with lots of flood. But that's not what we are after. We want an all-purpose hunter. We want beam balance between very long distance plus good beam spill so you can spot at hundreds of meters but also have enough beam width to sweep paddocks in seconds. And we want a torch both light enough to fit on scope as well as for use as handheld. XML2-U4 with the right reflector is still best for this job. Has very good 1200+ lumen output, but still maintains just 2 batts = low weight and very good runtime.
We also weigh up another factor - CRI or Color Rendering Index. This is: "color rendering index (CRI) is a measure of the ability of a light source to reveal the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source." Now you can get different leds with specific CRI ratings - rated 80, 90 etc. We don't go that far. But we do experiment visually with different leds (domed, domeless and dedomed) to determine which ones give best picture definition at long distance. In your photos you'll notice the dedomed maxtoch has much more faithful colour rendition than the HID with its blue/white beam.
We also rejected some of Cree's latest Xlamp Leds - especially their new XPL-HI (high intensity). This comes ex factory domeless but retains a coolish white beam which in tests was nowhere near as good as a dedomed XML2- U4. CRI or color rendition/object picture was much poorer at long range so that an XML light running at about 290k lux gave better object picture past 300 meters than the new XPL-HI running at 370k lux - 80k lux more! We biffed this new XPL-HI also because its less efficient - has lower output than a U4, has to be driven at 6 amps which it can only hold for a few minutes before stepdown to much lower output etc. At the moment the XML2-U4 with the right reflector (and Maxtoch techs very good at getting this right) is still best option for an all purpose hunter.
The nearest competition as a factory hunter torch to the Maxtochs would be the Olight M3X-UT Javelot. This uses the XPL-HI led, produces 250k lux, can only hold that 250k for a few minutes before stepping down to much lower output, has runtime of 5-55 minutes, and costs $150US. By comparison the new 2X will produce about 350k lux on high, 260k on medium, has no stepdowns and can run for 70-74 minutes continuously at 350k, or 100+ minutes at 260k, and will cost about $90US. And being a U4 it has much better CRI/light picture.
Led Lenser not in same street as lights like Olight or Maxtoch
I don't suppose anyone has done any real testing of light throw?
From memory there is a ANSI / SI standard used for this. Along the lines of how far away from the light source did you get 0.25 lux.