I'm going to be the one negative comment by the looks of it. Not because of any fault with the saw design, they go really good, easy to work on for a fiddly arse Husqvarna (thats a relative thing for Husqvarna - some of their designs are an exercise in microsurgery to work on) and not too heavy. Also relatively decent vibration dampening but that's not that important if you aren't full time on them.
From my experience of peeing about with older saws it's a high likelihood of needing to really get into the thing in the carb and fuel system - replacing the carb gaskets and diaphragms and also replacing the fuel lines and everything related to liquid handling. I've even had the oil pump rubber components poo themselves with the change to the modern cleaner bar oils. This isn't a problem if you enjoy working on saws and have the gear and know-how to strip out the bits, rekit them and refit and then retune the saw to start and run correctly but if you have to pay someone to do it that becomes a pretty pricey old saw. There's very high likelihood of this needing to be done in the first times you put a day on the saw, as our fuel has changed and likely the newer fuel will cause the diaphragms, hoses and gaskets to give up the ghost.
That said if it's in truly mint condition than probably it might be worth a premium price if you're a saw collector considering it's 32 odd years old. If it was me, I'd be looking to track down a newer model either near new or with a known history from a good user who looks after their kit and turns it over regularly. You'd be looking at spending something in the region of $650 - $850 and getting something that would be easier to find bits for and less likely to require a full rebuild of the fluid system.
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