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Thread: A word to the wise. Quality axes

  1. #31
    Member sometimes1's Avatar
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    I have done paracord wraps on my axes the one that lives in the jimny and on my little camping trailer easy to do

  2. #32
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    I bought the foresters / limbing axe after reading this thread. There were only two in the store to choose from and I grabbed the one with the better handle.
    What I did notice was that the cutting edge was slightly out of line with the line of the handle - just the way that the head was ground, not the casting. Anyway it took quite a bit of work to true it up, probably an hour on top of the shaping work. I am very happy with the end result - even mixed a little stain into the linseed oil and rubbed some blueing paste over the draw-filing.
    If I was buying another I would take a couple of lengths of 4x2 timber and a G clamp with me and sit each short-listed axe's cutting edge in the crack between the two boards to check that it is true to the line of the handle before making the final choice.
    'Bother' said Pooh, as he chambered another round ... Wong Far King Way

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelley View Post
    Nice collection there, did not know you could get them in NZ, there double bit version looks mean.
    There is no one in NZ retailing GB's. I purchased my first one (Hunters Hatchet) mail order from Germany when I found it on special. The price landed worked out better than anything of any other brand being sold in NZ at the time. That started my interest in GB's. I have bought all of the rest of them on TM over the past couple of years. There was a GB carpenters axe went for just under $300 last week on TM, which was bang on new price ex the USA.
    I do have a nice double bit, but its not a GB.


    Quote Originally Posted by Moa Hunter View Post
    I bought the foresters / limbing axe after reading this thread. There were only two in the store to choose from and I grabbed the one with the better handle.
    What I did notice was that the cutting edge was slightly out of line with the line of the handle - just the way that the head was ground, not the casting. Anyway it took quite a bit of work to true it up, probably an hour on top of the shaping work. I am very happy with the end result - even mixed a little stain into the linseed oil and rubbed some blueing paste over the draw-filing.
    If I was buying another I would take a couple of lengths of 4x2 timber and a G clamp with me and sit each short-listed axe's cutting edge in the crack between the two boards to check that it is true to the line of the handle before making the final choice.
    My brother was looking around for a camping axe 12 months ago, and as much as he liked my GB's he didn't want to spend the coin for high end, and like @akaroa1 discovered the Husqvarna. I think there were some youtube reviews that he saw promoting the good "bones" of the Husqvarna, but also cautioned the quality control (alignment and handles).
    His research showed that if you are going to buy a Husqvarna, go to a store that has as many samples as possible for viewing, and choose carefully, inspecting for all the defects that could exist in an axe. I think in the end he managed to go to the Husqvarna warehouse and selected his axe there.
    Once purchased, in comparison to a GB, you have a beautiful 'diamond in the rough' that now deserves your personalisation. Because the Husqvarna's are so well priced, don't be afraid to 'have a go' at modding the handle for the perfect fit, change the cutting angle by a degree or two. Worst case you have to put a new handle in it or you end up with and awesome felling axe that is shit at splitting and you are forced into buying a second as a better splitting axe.

    @Moa Hunter, correct me if I am wrong, but I bet the time you have invested into your new Husqvarna has actually brought you much closer together, <que peaceful background music>, strengthening the bond between tool and craftsman, co-aligning your purpose .
    But seriously, you have invested time and effort into the new axe and that will come to mind every time you use it

    Also, don't overlook TM and a good second hand Plumb, Kelly or similar shaped Granfors that requires a new handle and some file work. Make sure you have a handle on the price of replacement handles first, as you will very quickly be up to the price of a new Husqvarna since they are so well priced.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky View Post
    Great tip off @akaroa1 , I have the wetterling version that looks like your limbing axe , on a slightly different note what are you guys using for handle protectors down by the axe head to stop any damage ? or am I the only useless bugga that needs one ?
    There is a guy who advertises on TM who does nice leather handle wraps. Can't find his TM handle at the moment.
    Lucky likes this.

  5. #35
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    Here's a video worth watching if you are into tuning your Husqvarna

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUgfwueqJUE
    Moa Hunter likes this.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Southcity View Post
    I can second the Tuatahi quality. I thought I knew my axes until I bought a Tuatahi!
    Saw one of those axes the other weekend by an old axeman and farmer. Never thought an axe could be sharper than a cutthroat razor.

  7. #37
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    Have any of you fulla's got the large splitting axe? Had a look at one this morning and wasn't entirely convinced. Nice looking axe but didn't have much weight to it and had a rather slim blade. Quite the opposite to an american(?) maul. Looks like it would get jammed quite easily in some of the knottier stuff. Thought I'd ask on here before I forked out for one.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotto View Post
    Have any of you fulla's got the large splitting axe? Had a look at one this morning and wasn't entirely convinced. Nice looking axe but didn't have much weight to it and had a rather slim blade. Quite the opposite to an american(?) maul. Looks like it would get jammed quite easily in some of the knottier stuff. Thought I'd ask on here before I forked out for one.
    @rotto For a splitting maul, I would recommend a HELKO, available at Blade Master in Auckland.
    Pick your weight 1.7kg head or 2.8kg.
    Wood handle is better than glass as it absorbs more vibration. Steel handle protector means you shouldn't break the handle if you over strike.
    I have the heavier one and its a great piece of kit.

    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13576.html
    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13578.html

  9. #39
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    This is worth a look as Ray knows his onions (and axes) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5W6r5U7yBE
    'Bother' said Pooh, as he chambered another round ... Wong Far King Way

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbarrels View Post
    @rotto For a splitting maul, I would recommend a HELKO, available at Blade Master in Auckland.
    Pick your weight 1.7kg head or 2.8kg.
    Wood handle is better than glass as it absorbs more vibration. Steel handle protector means you shouldn't break the handle if you over strike.
    I have the heavier one and its a great piece of kit.

    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13576.html
    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13578.html
    I like the Sandvik splitters. I have a Bahco which is very similar now. I use two at a time. Sink on, then sink the other opposite and you can split some very tough timber quickly.

    Bought them at Mitre 10 so I'm ready to be corrected.
    The last Boy Scout

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tussock View Post
    I like the Sandvik splitters. I have a Bahco which is very similar now. I use two at a time. Sink on, then sink the other opposite and you can split some very tough timber quickly.

    Bought them at Mitre 10 so I'm ready to be corrected.
    Sandvik or Fiskars?

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    Sandvik or Fiskars?
    Sandvik and it was not recently.
    The last Boy Scout

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbarrels View Post
    @rotto For a splitting maul, I would recommend a HELKO, available at Blade Master in Auckland.
    Pick your weight 1.7kg head or 2.8kg.
    Wood handle is better than glass as it absorbs more vibration. Steel handle protector means you shouldn't break the handle if you over strike.
    I have the heavier one and its a great piece of kit.

    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13576.html
    https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...Axe/13578.html
    Thanks mate, they are a serious looking splitter alright. No need for the gym after a day swinging that hua. Looks ideal.

  14. #44
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    Years ago I was advised by a old guy , if you want a good axe get a Kelly and I found one and it`s the beat and only one I`ve had.

  15. #45
    MSL
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    Quote Originally Posted by homebrew.357 View Post
    Years ago I was advised by a old guy , if you want a good axe get a Kelly and I found one and it`s the beat and only one I`ve had.

 

 

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