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Thread: Is it 'Cold Bore' or 'Foul Bore' ?

  1. #1
    Member redbang's Avatar
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    Is it 'Cold Bore' or 'Foul Bore' ?

    You see comments about 'foulers' and 'cold bore' shots, so which one really means the most ?

    Does the rifle have to have a fouled bore before you start to shoot consistently, or does the barrel have to be completely cool before you take the next shot, or is it a combination of both ?

    I wonder when you go hunting, do you have a perfectly clean bore and know exactly where that cold shot is going to go ? and the follow up shot, where does that go ?

    Just curious to know what peoples thoughts are on the subject.

    Cheers, Red.

  2. #2
    Member el borracho's Avatar
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    keep the copper ,lose the carbon and yes you will have cold bore movement but possibly with a good barrel nothing that will make any difference to you---what distances are you shooting
    Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question

  3. #3
    R93
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    A fouled barrel to me is one that has had a series of rounds thru it prior to shooting cold or hot.
    A cold barrel can be fouled or clean.
    Generally you will get a velocity increase after your first round thru a cold clean barrel.
    For me it only effects LR. I have been lucky over the last few barrels I have to have the same MPI no matter what state the barrel is in out to 500.
    I do get a velocity increase after the first clean shot that can be anywhere from 20-80fps depending on calibre.
    So if I am intending to shoot beyond 500 I ensure I have fired a couple shots then chrony my next round on a cold barrel and use that velocity in my calcs to give me the best chance of a first round hit at whatever range.


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  4. #4
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    In my guns, the fouling shots are what matter ALOT more than cold barrrel.
    One 223 will take 10+ rounds to even start to come close to right
    308 takes 5-10
    Seems like cleaning is a pain in the arse when the gun wont shoot for a while - so I avoid it usually

  5. #5
    Member crnkin's Avatar
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    Yeah when most people say cold bore, they mean fouled bore, but dont know the difference

    Chris

  6. #6
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    I leave the copper and clean out the carbon ,seams to shoot a little more consistent first to last .

  7. #7
    Member redbang's Avatar
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    Interested that El B and HTR both say leave the copper and clean the carbon.

    How do you achieve this and why ? not heard of it before. . . .

    I generally find its what R93 says, always shoot LR with a fouled barrel, and get the jump with the second shot from clean. Also don't seem to get get a copper build up, so what will cause that ??
    Feather or Shoot likes this.

  8. #8
    Cutting Edge Bullets Terminator's Avatar
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    For a while now I've been cleaning very little just an oily patch to stop any rust and have been very happy with the results on the target, my reason for first trying this was because of the results F class shooters have been reporting not cleaning at all for a whole weekend shooting, they only clean when they see an opening up in group size.
    1000yds is fun, 1500yds is getting interesting, 2000yds is exciting, 2500yds will blow your mind

  9. #9
    R93
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    I do the same. But can get thru 150-200 before cleaning and its a light run with a brush and a patch or 2 and back into it.
    The joys of coating your projectiles with slippery stuff.


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  10. #10
    Member redbang's Avatar
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    Yeah, I must admit I'm nowhere as anal as I used to be with cleaning. After a shooting session I use Hoppes 9 for 3 or 4 patches, just leave the bore slightly damp and one clean dry patch thru before shooting 1 fouler. From then on things seem to flow with no problems, and I only put a slightly damp patch thru if I'm changing to loads with different powders but still have a fouling shot.
    I'd still like to know how the copper fouling happens ? I've only ever had the smallest hint of blue on a patch and that was after the rifle had been left in the cupboard for some time.

  11. #11
    Member crnkin's Avatar
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    Clean when it shoots bad I think is the generally consensus. My factory weatherby would go around 60-80 before it opened up a bit. Now I just oil and dry it more or less

    Chris

  12. #12
    Member el borracho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbang View Post
    Interested that El B and HTR both say leave the copper and clean the carbon.

    How do you achieve this and why ? not heard of it before. . . .

    I generally find its what R93 says, always shoot LR with a fouled barrel, and get the jump with the second shot from clean. Also don't seem to get get a copper build up, so what will cause that ??
    copper provides stability and doesn't move around and bunch like carbon when not excessive
    Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question

  13. #13
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    R93 would use HBN.
    Hexagonal boron nitride
    A big fast bullet beats a little fast bullet every time

  14. #14
    R93
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mmsaum View Post
    R93 would use HBN.
    Hexagonal boron nitride
    Yup, HBN. Moly rooted a couple black barrels I had. As Tussock pointed out, mix it with moisture and you get a corrosion factory. They both still shot but looked like an umpa lumpa mine site.

    HBN is not as slippery as moly but it can never cause any bore problems. Cleaning is a breeze as well, I have yet to have a blue patch when using a copper solvent.
    Last edited by R93; 08-08-2012 at 07:49 AM.

  15. #15
    Member el borracho's Avatar
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    whats your decrease in speed with HB -must be slightly different even to moly
    Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question

 

 

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