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Thread: DIY Steel Plate Impact Detection

  1. #31
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    I think it's a great idea with potential but it comes down to how well the electronics handle a steel gong getting pummeled over and over.

  2. #32
    Member Cordite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post
    There's also the thought that a sound detector/mike installed nearby to catch the ring of a struck plate might work.

    It wouldn't have to be on the plate, just close enough to work well enough.
    Indeed. A small FM transmitter and a microphone safely coverednearby. Receiver is a common seat of ear muffa with built in FM radio.

    Depemding on local commercial stations, you could set the transmitter frequency of each gong monitor to 101, 102 and 103MHz for 100, 200 and 300m respectively.

    Would be cool as you'd hear the sound of misses too.
    janleroux likes this.
    "I find television very educating. Every time somebody turns on the set, I go into the other room and read a book." Groucho Marx

  3. #33
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    Hey mate, how about gluing it to the plate with urethane? look up the correct primers etc and it will never come off! should be flexible enough for a good pasting.
    Even the plate could be urethaned to some brackets for hanging etc,
    No bolts or chains or rubber to get shot up either.
    Use enough gun

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40mm View Post
    Hey mate, how about gluing it to the plate with urethane? look up the correct primers etc and it will never come off! should be flexible enough for a good pasting.
    Even the plate could be urethaned to some brackets for hanging etc,
    No bolts or chains or rubber to get shot up either.
    Thanks, Urethane not something I knew about. Will definitely read up on it and give it a go. Can you possibly recommend some brands and type of urethane glue to start off with?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #35
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    Yup, just a strap folded to have a hook at the top that fits neatly over the plate. Possibly doesn't need to hang too far down the back either, and would probably have plenty of pressure to keep the sensor firmly on the back of the plate so no need for magnets. Like those hooks they hang over wardrobe doors. And would be transferable to any plate. I think your units stand much greater chance of being damaged when travelling and setting up if permanently attached to the gongs, hung as a separate unit would negate all that worry.
    janleroux likes this.

  6. #36
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    Probably a crazy idea, but I always had a plan that when the time came I'd mount a small mirrorball above and to the plate. So when the plate swung my spotter would detect flashes of light from the mirrors. Untested. Cloudy day may be a problem.

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  7. #37
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    I think we're dropping the ball on this thread.
    janleroux likes this.
    "I find television very educating. Every time somebody turns on the set, I go into the other room and read a book." Groucho Marx

  8. #38
    Member 40mm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by janleroux View Post
    Thanks, Urethane not something I knew about. Will definitely read up on it and give it a go. Can you possibly recommend some brands and type of urethane glue to start off with?



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    Sika or 3M are usually pretty good brands. Read up on the specs and instructions properly and you should be good.
    janleroux likes this.
    Use enough gun

  9. #39
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Sikaflex 260 comes to mind for a good multi purpose urethane. I've used it to glue my boots back together and lasted ages. You would want to have a decent thick layer between the box and gong, to act as a bit of a shock absorber.
    janleroux likes this.

  10. #40
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    Or attach with good old velcro. Cheap, easy to replace, holds well, provides a little impact 'give', lets the units be removed.
    janleroux likes this.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  11. #41
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    Is it possible to get the plans?

    Quote Originally Posted by janleroux View Post
    For a month or two I have been tinkering with this steel plate impact detection idea for when you go practising target shooting on your own. I found it sometimes difficult to hear a hit (earplugs) and to see the hit (recoil or dare I admit it - old age). I got it working and today I took it to a dog-walk park with my son and tested it all the way to 350m.

    Here is a video of it working in my workshop: https://youtu.be/7acWxYwWrTg

    50m test: https://youtu.be/jYXJJbm0JaI

    100m test: https://youtu.be/ID9QplH6RR8

    200m test: https://youtu.be/JgVao70CrxY

    350m test: https://youtu.be/f0KK7jSD3as

    I tend to over-think/over-engineer things, so what sort of range would one need to make it work at to be really useful - will 2 km be enough?

    Any all ideas and feedback appreciated.

    I think it would be useful to have a relay to power a bright Strobe. Is it possible to get the plans or even buy a set up from you? A 1000 meter range should be sufficient for my purposes but your suggested 2KM would be ideal.

  12. #42
    Member janleroux's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel Grey View Post
    I think it would be useful to have a relay to power a bright Strobe. Is it possible to get the plans or even buy a set up from you? A 1000 meter range should be sufficient for my purposes but your suggested 2KM would be ideal.
    Still work in progress - like most of my projects I get side tracked and the projects evolve into something different. This project is no exception (unfortunately).

    Current setup works well with 22LR. Current version does not have a strobe light, but it has two high-bright RGB LEDs that means I can use the same receiver with multiple plate detectors and assign a specific colour to each one.
    Centrefire cals have created some issues especially with smaller plates on shorter distances - the impact shock created all sort of issues. Shooting antennas off turns out to be a real problem similar to finding methods to reliably install the impact sensors on existing plates.

    I am working on a revised prototype that we plan to test in about 2 months. I will post on here when I get it working reliably.

  13. #43
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    We’ve been using the magnetospeed ones for about 3 or 4 years. I rebuilt steel mounts bolted to the target for them as we shattered the plastic ones that came with them, and the Velcro was useless. We keep them on the targets on the range 360 days a year, replace batteries once a year. They have a few sensitivity settings but found big cals set them off when flying past the target even at 2km. So the solid mount stopped that as they are on the low sensitivity settings, have no problem 6.5 creedmore setting them off at 2km.
    I made the same mounting system and protection for the targets I made for the military.
    I’ve seen units fall off from Velcro at 1000m then someone shot it when lying on the ground.
    I have a home built one made by a local guy. Works ok. Needs a better mounting system than the magnets they used as it just fell off. You have to turn it off each time though. The magnetospeed ones have a sleep mode.
    We used other ones made locally once upon a time too that used a camera flash off to the side, but still had to be taken off each day.
    The magnetospeed design took out the 1 hour range prep time putting up flashers.
    Sparrowhawknz
    Stump likes this.

 

 

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