Thread: Building your own hut...

This kitset came from Levin.
@Brian being a builder made it all straight forward. 2 built in bunks, table, bench. Pot belly. Storage.

Good to see you back on the forum Tahr.

Originally Posted by Rushy

Good to see you back on the forum Tahr.

@Rushy home yesterday.

Originally Posted by Tahr

@Rushy home yesterday.

Excellent

[QUOTE=Hayden C;1687114]P.S GIB behaves very differently when fixed correctly as opposed to being dropped on the floor.... /QUOTE]

Yes, but breaking into pieces? GIB Standard behaves better than that when dropped on one corner. You usually lose about 150mm in either way, not literally breaking into pieces like the Braceline did. It got a raised eyebrow all around, as it would have been much lower forces than it would experience in a big jolt and flex in line with the wall.

More than likely the internal linings as it is in my head at the moment will be ply or somesuch - we are not talking a large span wall if it's going to be prefabbed then broken back down to a kitset for transport so in reality the 3604 span calculations will be limited in application. Going for ply will ensure it won't fail and crack or suffer compression or impact damage in transit. What will be the driving force as far as design is use of the sheet sizes, ensuring that the sheets have sufficient support with correct fastening locations. From the cursory glance through 3604 that will ensure we are well within requirements for 'code'.

Originally Posted by Hayden C

Back on topic.

https://www.kenneallytimber.co.nz/

These guys are good for materials. They often have nonstructural timber and/or reject ply at reasonable prices if you go that way.

Good prices, wrong island (again).

What's access at the site like?
Could you get a hiab truck to the site?
Is the site sheltered or windy?
Does anyone overlook the site or can it not be legally seen by any other neighbouring property users?

Non-builders seem to think that those in the construction industry are jealous guardians of some secret portal through which magically low prices and golden deals can be accessed

In reality, short cuts save maybe 10% and end up costing 200%

If you have space I'd start stockpiling materials now, treated ply, windows, etc
I'd build it so that it could be removed in the future because things change and nothing lasts forever - ie make it into a truckable shape say 2.5 by 6m container footprint
You could build it on skids and still bolt those skids to piles/poles in a high wind zone, just tape and grease the bolts

Also if truck access is an option, look for 2nd hand freezerpanel work site sheds on TardMe - grotty ones can be cheap

If you are doing it in sections I'd make the frames butt up to each other then use 100mm tek screws from each side to lock them together, that way you could conceivably undo the sections in the future, likewise screw cladding over the join on the outside and screw ply over the interior join


Speaking as an LBP I would recommend not telling council or any regulatory authority and just building the damn thing - it's a hunting hut FFS

also +1 on avoiding all James Hardie products now and for ever more - these are the same scumfucks who reincorporated their company overseas to avoid being sued for mesothalmia (sp?) and asbestosis claims by their previous workers
A bunch of lawyers flogging building products - nuff said

Yep my thoughts too...

Access is very basic at this point, 4x4 is about it. It's a bare block after all... As I understand it, pick of the places for siting so can select a sheltered option.

Early sun,radio/phone reception,a view over productive ground,water supply might also be points to consider when finding site.

Greetings All,
I was glad to see NZS 3604 mentioned as it is an excellent guide for the basic building construction. It is the weather tightness of buildings that seems to trip people up, namely lack of adequate flashings around windows and at changes in roof pitch, inadequate roof pitch for the material used and not carrying the cladding down far enough to form a drip to protect the subfloor framing and stop water penetration from capillary action and many others. Regrettably I see all of these in the posted photos. I am not getting at anyone here but just stressing the need to get some advice with some sketched of details for cladding before getting started on the project.
Regards Grandpamac

Yey, yep. All good advice again...

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings All,
I was glad to see NZS 3604 mentioned as it is an excellent guide for the basic building construction. It is the weather tightness of buildings that seems to trip people up, namely lack of adequate flashings around windows and at changes in roof pitch, inadequate roof pitch for the material used and not carrying the cladding down far enough to form a drip to protect the subfloor framing and stop water penetration from capillary action and many others. Regrettably I see all of these in the posted photos. I am not getting at anyone here but just stressing the need to get some advice with some sketched of details for cladding before getting started on the project.
Regards Grandpamac

The BRANZ House Building Guide has lots of sketched details for how to do these sort of things - this one is 18 bucks or so
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/5318262776

just build one what could go wrong just make sure it needs 4x4 to get to

Originally Posted by Tahr

This kitset came from Levin.
@Brian being a builder made it all straight forward. 2 built in bunks, table, bench. Pot belly. Storage.

Attachment 275429

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I love your wind chimes @Tahr

This is a document I was trying to remember. Overkill for a hut, but even browsing the table of contents gives you some good points to think about. Might be useful if you are doing it all yourself.

https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/...st-edition.pdf