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Thread: DIY Carbon Fiber Rifle Stock

  1. #31
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    Good work bro.

  2. #32
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    Very well written I could never make one but enjoyed reading about it ��

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by trooper90 View Post
    Very well written I could never make one but enjoyed reading about it ��
    Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed the read.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    What is the barrel channel usually filled with in the available carbon stocks. I'm not sure what it is in my Ken Henderson.
    Not sure, I have heard some fill the fore-end with foam and layup a layer of fibreglass on top of it. Perhaps STUG could advise on that?

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    What is the barrel channel usually filled with in the available carbon stocks. I'm not sure what it is in my Ken Henderson.
    I would guess Polyurethane foam, that's what I used for mine, and I think Stug used that too.

  6. #36
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    I made a mould of the barrel channel and glued it in place in the stock. Then drilled a small hole at each end of barrel channel. Then poured in the PU foam in through one hole and blocked that hole with tape while allowing the excess to flow out the other hole after filling void. Epoxied over holes to seal them afterwards. Butt also filled with PU foam - very light and adds stiffness. Very little PU foam required as the expansion is incredible after mixing the 2 parts!
    Moa Hunter and dannyb like this.

  7. #37
    Member stug's Avatar
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    I use Sika Boom expanding foam in the stock to deaden the hollow sound a bit. I cast a barrel channel liner from carbon fibre and epoxy it in the foreend when I am bedding them action and doing the edges of the barrel channel.
    Tommy, Stocky and dannyb like this.

  8. #38
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    Great write up and brilliant result. I have successfully put this project off myself for around 5 years so far.
    Been a long while since I have played polyester resins.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by stug View Post
    I use Sika Boom expanding foam in the stock to deaden the hollow sound a bit. I cast a barrel channel liner from carbon fibre and epoxy it in the foreend when I am bedding them action and doing the edges of the barrel channel.
    Thanks, I think I will give that a try on the next one.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by SixtyTen View Post
    Great write up and brilliant result. I have successfully put this project off myself for around 5 years so far.
    Been a long while since I have played polyester resins.
    Yeah, I had been thinking about doing it for a while, but the project as a whole seemed quite daunting.

    The hard part was finding out how to do it. There was very little out there about how to make a stock. That's why I have posted my experiences, to help others wanting to give it a go.

  11. #41
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    Do you have any pictures of the tabs for the butt joint?

    You could probably save a fair bit of weight by vacum bagging it.... then it's just a small step to a one piece stock with a latex bladder
    takbok likes this.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robojaz View Post
    Thanks,

    I doubt that there would be much demand for a long action Savage 110 stock .
    you dont need a big demand...just one person who wants something different.....good mate of mine has a savage in 7mm mag.... the stock was stupidly soft n flexi,whole rifle silly light,barrel is soda straw thin....it used to boot the crap out of him....his mate "leaded it" for him.....we couldnt work out why it rattled,so took action out of stock...it literally had pieces of wheel weights cut and sat in stock cavities!!!!!!
    I hot glue gunned them into place...worked a treat.stock is now stiff and the added weight helps with recoil issue...funny how he still uses his .308 more LOL.
    when I say soda straw thin.....my std 1 in 20 thread protector will go part way onto his non threaded muzzle.

  13. #43
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    I did similar with my .22 but used hot glue and lead shot in the fore end,stopped the dreaded wobble when the scope was would up to 7 power and was better for running bunnies with the extra weight forward.worked well.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  14. #44
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    If you want to achieve the highest level of rigidity and lightweightness, have the mould split horizontally rather than vertically with all the inletting and bottom metal moulded in the two halves. Much harder to make the mould , certain shape would be hard to make and would need a three or for part mould and there is that seem line to sand down and maybe paint over but no need to mock around with inletting.
    I believe the old brown precision stocks used to be made like that.
    Also vacuum bagging or pressure blader use would improve the strength and lightweightness .
    takbok likes this.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friwi View Post
    If you want to achieve the highest level of rigidity and lightweightness, have the mould split horizontally rather than vertically with all the inletting and bottom metal moulded in the two halves. Much harder to make the mould , certain shape would be hard to make and would need a three or for part mould and there is that seem line to sand down and maybe paint over but no need to mock around with inletting.
    I believe the old brown precision stocks used to be made like that.
    Also vacuum bagging or pressure blader use would improve the strength and lightweightness .
    Yeah, I did see a YouTube clip of someone making a stock in that manner.

 

 

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