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Thread: Switch barrel : any experience ?

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  1. #1
    DAC
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    Cheapest solition ( and reliable) is Roessler titan , half prices compared with Blaser . Your action and barrels...no guarantee will work .

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  2. #2
    ebf
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    Guys, not interested in buying a whole new rifle, I have an action and two barrels already... Just keen to hear what the options are for putting it together.
    @NZShoota, thanks, that sounds like what I am after. Single or double pin ? Could you post pic of your rear wrench pls. My action in Remmy 788, so not looking at a lug based wrench. Just round bar, with a slot milled in it, then pop a "key" into the roundbar through the action port.
    Viva la Howa ! R.I.P. Toby | Black rifles matter... | #illegitimate_ute

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebf View Post
    Guys, not interested in buying a whole new rifle, I have an action and two barrels already... Just keen to hear what the options are for putting it together.
    @NZShoota, thanks, that sounds like what I am after. Single or double pin ? Could you post pic of your rear wrench pls. My action in Remmy 788, so not looking at a lug based wrench. Just round bar, with a slot milled in it, then pop a "key" into the roundbar through the action port.
    My 2c worth.... I have had guys ask numerous times over the years about building a switch barrel rifle, usually as a way of saving some $$. Sounds good in theory but in practice there are several problems. Trying to get the barrel/receiver fit to be as tight and consistent as possible while being still being relatively easy to remove, is an engineering challenge that has been a problem for custom gunsmiths for over 100 years. Conventional threads always wear over time, and play develops. Unless you need the rifle to be quick take-down for compact transporting reasons, then the whole concept is a waste of time and effort.
    In most European cases the prime reason for switch barrel rifles is where there is a legal restriction on how many rifles you may own (I.e. - only 1 centre fire hunting rifle.)

    Drawbacks are: having to re-zero your scope every time you change barrels - this means trip to the range and more ammo every time you change barrel/scope. You can't use both rifles/barrels at the same time (I.e. Taking a visiting mate for a hunt). Cost: usually ends up working out to the same cost as having 2 or 3 separate rifles anyway - so why not have 2 separate rifles set-up that you don't need to tear down, and will have a better chance of shooting well.

    If you have the $$ and really need a take down rifle, then the Blaser system with the bolt lock-up directly into the barrel and scope mount directly on the barrel shank, would tend to make them the better modern choice for a take-down/switch-barrel rifle.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebf View Post
    Guys, not interested in buying a whole new rifle, I have an action and two barrels already... Just keen to hear what the options are for putting it together.
    @NZShoota, thanks, that sounds like what I am after. Single or double pin ? Could you post pic of your rear wrench pls. My action in Remmy 788, so not looking at a lug based wrench. Just round bar, with a slot milled in it, then pop a "key" into the roundbar through the action port.
    Single pin in the recoil lug. Scott at SSRNZ did the work. Wrench is a Davidson.

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  5. #5
    ebf
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    Thanks Dean.

    Entire project budget is less than $500.

    Got second barrel for $100 from a mate
    Around $250 for re-thread, chamber and crown
    Maybe $50 for materials to make up barrel vice and action wrench.

    Believe me, it took me long enough to find a lefty action/rifle, i keep a close watch on TM, most are well over $750.

    I hear what you say about re-zero, not a major issue for me, 10 minutes to local range, and I have flexible work setup, so not a hassle to pop down.

    Would you recommend pinned or alignment block for the lug ?
    Viva la Howa ! R.I.P. Toby | Black rifles matter... | #illegitimate_ute

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebf View Post
    Thanks Dean.

    Entire project budget is less than $500.

    Got second barrel for $100 from a mate
    Around $250 for re-thread, chamber and crown
    Maybe $50 for materials to make up barrel vice and action wrench.

    Believe me, it took me long enough to find a lefty action/rifle, i keep a close watch on TM, most are well over $750.

    I hear what you say about re-zero, not a major issue for me, 10 minutes to local range, and I have flexible work setup, so not a hassle to pop down.

    Would you recommend pinned or alignment block for the lug ?
    Rem 788 LH action and only $500 to spend - wow, that's a big ask!

    Unfortunately it's not a lefty's world, and with less options it means you just have to pay what ever is required if you want quality. Rem788 is pretty much the bottom tier of action you could get. Even a LH Savage would probably be better - as it least you can still get parts for those.

    For a switch barrel rifle it would be most ideal to first select an action with an integral recoil lug (i.e. Howa, Sako, Win70, etc.) and avoid any of the 'sandwich/washer recoil lug set-ups, as this only creates a major potential issue. Even with a 'pin' installed the lug it can still squew off alignment a bit, which could then affect the bedding, shoulder seat, etc.

    Professionally, this sort of job i would give a very wide berth. But for a home project, if you could first find a way to make the recoil lug integral to the action (so that it will never move) then you will have overcome one hurdle. Still i shudder at the thought of a Rem788 action though, especially for a project such as this. But if you're on a budget........

    D.
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  7. #7
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    Basically , what Dean said , EXCEPT , I would not reccommend blaser , the concept is flawed , and is of use ONLY when restricted to a 1-2 rifles , due to local laws .
    I like the idea , but in practice its not is good as it is in theory .
    If you still wanted to , I would say , Sauer , the old blaser84 , Mauser 66 , or something like the Dakota , or IF for heavier varmints , then any of the new AIs or Sako TRG M10 , or DT SRS .

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Basically , what Dean said , EXCEPT , I would not reccommend blaser , the concept is flawed , and is of use ONLY when restricted to a 1-2 rifles , due to local laws .
    I like the idea , but in practice its not is good as it is in theory .
    If you still wanted to , I would say , Sauer , the old blaser84 , Mauser 66 , or something like the Dakota , or IF for heavier varmints , then any of the new AIs or Sako TRG M10 , or DT SRS .
    Why do you say that about the Blasers?

  10. #10
    ebf
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    Oh crap, there goes the thread, another pro and anti blaser fest
    7mmsaum, Barefoot, Spook and 1 others like this.
    Viva la Howa ! R.I.P. Toby | Black rifles matter... | #illegitimate_ute

  11. #11
    Caretaker Wildman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebf View Post
    Oh crap, there goes the thread, another pro and anti blaser fest
    Not at all, was just interested in a different point of view, thanks @ChrisF

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    Because I donot like them .

    After talking to a couple of smiths with alot of experience , UK & Germany , they said they have good barrels & usually shoot accurately , but most other parts are cheap .
    the German smith said , a large police unit guarding airports in Germany , brought a number of their tac rifles , and returned them 3 times as they would not constantly hold a zero over time , in the end went with something else , this was using the blaser saddle mounts.
    If you ever see photos of what the european & german police use , its actually rare to see the Blaser tac rifles in use , what you do see is lots of HK PSG-1 , PSG-1As , DSR-1s , PGMs , Sako TRGs , BT APRs , Sauer SSG3000 , Steyr SSGs , Steyr SSG04s , Steyr CISMs , and a assortment of AIs .

    They have had a number of cases of the bolt unlocking during firing , usually due to gases from a blown primer running down the firing pin hole and melting a thrust washer camming the finger splines closed , and when that happens its very messy , do a search and you will find photos of guys that have had the bolt driven into their face .
    It has not happened much , I think about 4-5 times , BUT it has happened , and ME I am NOT very luckly , actually I have no luck at all .
    The idea of a switch barrel rig saving you money , again in theory , and not really in practice .
    The point is how they fail , other actions have blow ups , BUT in virtually every case the bolt and action have held, and not seperated , when a blaser fails it lets the bolt go .
    I look at blaser being the Fosters ( beer ) of rifles , bloody good marketing hype & advertising , but a crap product , JUST like Aussie Fosters beer .
    Even our own Swazi man had some drama's with blasers , Opps . barrel blew , he was lucky , its normally the bolt .
    So I chose other rifles , actually , almost any other rifles .


    Later Chris

  13. #13
    By Popular Demand gimp's Avatar
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Because I donot like them .

    After talking to a couple of smiths with alot of experience , UK & Germany , they said they have good barrels & usually shoot accurately , but most other parts are cheap .
    the German smith said , a large police unit guarding airports in Germany , brought a number of their tac rifles , and returned them 3 times as they would not constantly hold a zero over time , in the end went with something else , this was using the blaser saddle mounts.
    If you ever see photos of what the european & german police use , its actually rare to see the Blaser tac rifles in use , what you do see is lots of HK PSG-1 , PSG-1As , DSR-1s , PGMs , Sako TRGs , BT APRs , Sauer SSG3000 , Steyr SSGs , Steyr SSG04s , Steyr CISMs , and a assortment of AIs .

    They have had a number of cases of the bolt unlocking during firing , usually due to gases from a blown primer running down the firing pin hole and melting a thrust washer camming the finger splines closed , and when that happens its very messy , do a search and you will find photos of guys that have had the bolt driven into their face .
    It has not happened much , I think about 4-5 times , BUT it has happened , and ME I am NOT very luckly , actually I have no luck at all .
    The idea of a switch barrel rig saving you money , again in theory , and not really in practice .
    The point is how they fail , other actions have blow ups , BUT in virtually every case the bolt and action have held, and not seperated , when a blaser fails it lets the bolt go .
    I look at blaser being the Fosters ( beer ) of rifles , bloody good marketing hype & advertising , but a crap product , JUST like Aussie Fosters beer .
    Even our own Swazi man had some drama's with blasers , Opps . barrel blew , he was lucky , its normally the bolt .
    So I chose other rifles , actually , almost any other rifles .


    Later Chris
    Cool story bro.

  15. #15
    Numzane Spudattack's Avatar
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    All for $500 bucks!😜
    "Here's the deal I'm the best there is. Plain and simple. I wake up in the morning and I piss excellence."

 

 

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