Early days but this is just a teaser photo. I have machined the lower from tooling grade aluminium. I will post photos as work progresses.
Attachment 90208
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Early days but this is just a teaser photo. I have machined the lower from tooling grade aluminium. I will post photos as work progresses.
Attachment 90208
Bolt action 9mm or .45 ACP..? To be suppressed..? Looks the shizzle so far..
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I'm guessing .45 ACP suppressed.......?
Yep, 9mm, suppressed with the eccentric De Lisle system, overall length of 770mm, Picatinny rail, and optics yet to be decided.
Are you shortening the bolt and extending the barrel through?
Yes, receiver and bolt work done. I have the barrel in the lathe now. I have been making authentic De Lisle replicas for some years so I am well set up for the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker
Better than me. It looks sweet
I have a long term (not authentic) delisle project on the go that I have made way harder than it should be.
Maybe these are trade secrets but there is no harm in asking,
how do you bore out the receiver for the barrel to pass through?
and how do you shorten the bolt, cut a chunk out and weld or cut and tap? Presumably since you were after a No4 you re taped the bolt, if so how do you clock the thread?
I have made special tooling to bore out the receiver by hand. You can't do it in a lathe because of the skinny tool needed and the interrupted cut. I anneal the bolt body and hacksaw to the appropriate length, square it off and tap it out. The SMLE Mk III's I use for the De Lisles have an Enfield bastard thread so I had to make the taps for that. The No4 has UNF threads so 7/16" UNF is correct for the bolt head. Once the bolt is threaded then I file fit it until the bolt head registers correctly. Obviously the barrel cannot be finished until the bolt has been done correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog
Thanks for that, looks like I was on the right track in planning the next project (I do still have to finish this one though). I was thinking of making something up a bit like a tap washer seat cutting tool to do the receiver. And I may be able to get away with finding a No4 bolt head instead of a whole bolt which may be a bit easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
LOL "authentic" de Lisle replica.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
What’s funny about that?Quote:
Originally Posted by keneff
Yes, based on 20 years research which included a trip to the Pattern Room collection to examine, photograph and measure originals. My drawings are accurate and I also have some original drawings. I have attached a couple of photos of one of my working replicas.Attachment 90278Attachment 90279Quote:
Originally Posted by keneff
Very clever man hopefully you have someone worthy of passing your knowledge and skills on to
duralinium or steel baffles this time ?
keneff does have a point......replica is opposite of authentic...... a replica made to authentic specifications would be more ....ummmm betterer Engrish....
plurry nice workmanship. does anyone do them in .32/20????? that would be an interesting wee rifle to own with similar power to the other cartridges.
Neither, stainless steel. That is the one modification I have done as Duralium oxidises badly (that was obvious in the originals I examined in the UK). The baffles are true to the original design but better material.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
An authentic replica is one that is manufactured to the same exact specs using the same materials, and looks identical. A replica only has to look similar.
What would the cost of one of these be? Always thought they were a very interesting gun and one day would be nice to own one.
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i had my hands on one of gundocs replicas, beautifully made
As a cheap alternative there's a thread on here about converting a 22 lr to a few lisle carbineQuote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
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Most of the external parts made, barrel fitted but not yet chambered. Now all the little parts that you can't see need to be made (trigger mechanism, mag catch, suppressor internals, Picatinny rail). I have mocked it up for the photo with my 3x Weaver which I will use (if I can't see it clearly with the 3x then it is too far for the 9mm).
Attachment 90304
PM me with your email.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
Wouldnt an authentic replica be getting pretty marginal in terms of the Police overall length interpretations?
There are quite a few detail photos here,
https://collections.royalarmouries.o...ct-279389.html
[QUOTE=Chilli_Dog;721442]Wouldnt an authentic replica be getting pretty marginal in terms of the Police overall length interpretations?
The De Lisle Commando carbine is 895mm long. The NZ overall minimum length limit is 762mm, so the De Lisle is well over. There was only one prototype De Lisle made with a folding stock. The production guns were all the conventional wood stock.
It amazes me of what you can do with the old .303, I have still got my first 1918 longtom action .303, its a gun cupboard queen and have been thinking maybe a rebuild to a .45-70, don`t know where I got that idea from. with a 27" barrel make a nasty pig gun.
[QUOTE=gundoc;721461]A folding stock would make it a pistol right if it was used?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog
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I used to have a replica, don't know if it was one of yours but it felt like it weighed a tonne (45 ACP mind you)
Will this one be relatively light?
[QUOTE=Russian 22.;721571]If it is able to be fired while folded, then yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
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Very cool build! Right up my alley. Loving that bit of machining, well done.
Thats fucken awesome mate, well done. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I hope the Aussie authorities dont see this and track me down, I could get done for incitement and encouraging others to make cool shit. :P
I have just got all the aluminium parts back from the anodisers. I will blue the steel parts and have it fully assembled next week. I will nip up to the range and zero it at 50 metres (should be about right for most things with the 147 grain bullet) and post the results.
hey gun doc the saw is here if you want to check it out
Very cool @Rock river arms hunter might like this
All finished and up to the range to sight in. The 147 grain loads I had scrounged from somewhere were supersonic so no good for evaluating the suppressor, and only mediocre accuracy. I will pull it down and check everything before I work up some proper loads. Not the best result I was wanting but I think it looks OK.Attachment 94625Attachment 94626Attachment 94627
Stripped it this afternoon and found the suppressor alignment was spot on, but the suppressor was full of lots of fine copper fragments. I pulled a cartridge and the projectile is made of powdered copper. The ammo was made for police use on an indoor range and fragments on impact. It probably works fine in a polyagonal Glock or MP5 barrel but is bloody awful in a conventionally rifled and ported barrel. Little pieces break off the bullets as they exit the bore, having been structurally weakened by the sharp edges of the rifling and passing over the ports, and the bullets go all over the place. I have a good supply of JHP 147 grain bullets so I will load up some sample loads and head back to the range for accuracy and velocity testing.
Its good when it turns out to be a nice easy fix!Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I loaded a selection of loads and went back to the range this afternoon. As I was mainly checking velocities I was not worried about accuracy but I wound up with 30 shots in a large ragged hole at 25 metres. The top velocity was only 985 fps so I will go a bit higher (about 1050 fps) and do a 50 metre accuracy test. The frangible bullets were the problem.
Sooo rough idea on cost if some one wanted one made ?
I queue is beginning to form I believe[emoji16][emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by Markgibsonr25
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