Thread: Whats your fire forming process?

Looking at fire forming some cases. What is your process and components (powder, filler etc) you use?

I load em up and shoot em.

Same. I have tried all methods and the least hassle is to fire a decent load of the parent case. Especially if not shooting enough to worry about barrel life.
You may be able to source a forming die

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I've also tried all methods and settled on just load a max load of the Standard form and have projectile touching lands so case head is hard on bolt face.
Fire and job done.

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I'm trying not to fire 100 projectiles if i can help it. Just read some similar threads. Cheers team.

Originally Posted by Willus

I'm trying not to fire 100 projectiles if i can help it. Just read some similar threads. Cheers team.

Yeah, thats not many aye. I suggest at least 1000 for a fun day.

Originally Posted by Willus

I'm trying not to fire 100 projectiles if i can help it. Just read some similar threads. Cheers team.

Use that 100 or what ever it takes to develop a accurate fire forming load. After that shoot rabbits or whatever to fire form. You have your good fire formed rounds, and your what ever forming rounds. You just formthem as you go, with out wasting them... So to speak.

Originally Posted by Willus

I'm trying not to fire 100 projectiles if i can help it. Just read some similar threads. Cheers team.

where is the fun in that! Funny thing is my fire-forming load is only marginally less accurate you only notice the difference past 500m

I just buy factory ammo with the brass i want and go target shooting job done

7.62x39 to 6.5 Grendel

Take said clean x39 cases and:
1. Put through 6.5G die
2. Prime
3. Load with 10 grain shot gun powder and top up with rolled oats.
4. Shoot into bucket of water
5. Put through 6.5G die

Wow you just made 6.5G out of 7.62x39

Why????? Because I have 100 7.62x39 Lapua and now I have 100 6.5G LAPUA cases and you can only squeeze in a pox load without the fire forming.

Originally Posted by Willus

Looking at fire forming some cases. What is your process and components (powder, filler etc) you use?

Don't listen to those other fellas Willus, listen to the Moa.

Head spacing is the concern when fire-forming. If there is no formed shoulder to support the case it will be driven forward and then on ignition the case head will stretch back until it hits the bolt and bugger the case by thinning the brass or even split the case and separate the head. Probably stuff you have already been reading about. The very best way around this is to set your neck size die so that it does NOT fully size the neck but leaves a donut ring at the neck / shoulder junction. Adjust the die so that a case can be chambered but is firm on the bolt. The case is head spacing and held tightly in place between the neck ring and the case head. Load a normal standard load and go hunting

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Don't listen to those other fellas Willus, listen to the Moa.

Head spacing is the concern when fire-forming. If there is no formed shoulder to support the case it will be driven forward and then on ignition the case head will stretch back until it hits the bolt and bugger the case by thinning the brass or even split the case and separate the head. Probably stuff you have already been reading about. The very best way around this is to set your neck size die so that it does NOT fully size the neck but leaves a donut ring at the neck / shoulder junction. Adjust the die so that a case can be chambered but is firm on the bolt. The case is head spacing and held tightly in place between the neck ring and the case head. Load a normal standard load and go hunting

Same thing is achieved by seating a projectile so the base is firm against the bolt face. Common knowledge to most that run improved cases.
If forming without projectiles I run a larger button thru the neck so I get the same results.


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Context

I'm sizing 308 palma brass to 260

Aim

To get the cases reasonably formed for when it comes to doing ladder tests on 4 different powders I'm minimizing the potential for bad/skewed data.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Don't listen to those other fellas Willus, listen to the Moa.

Head spacing is the concern when fire-forming. If there is no formed shoulder to support the case it will be driven forward and then on ignition the case head will stretch back until it hits the bolt and bugger the case by thinning the brass or even split the case and separate the head. Probably stuff you have already been reading about. The very best way around this is to set your neck size die so that it does NOT fully size the neck but leaves a donut ring at the neck / shoulder junction. Adjust the die so that a case can be chambered but is firm on the bolt. The case is head spacing and held tightly in place between the neck ring and the case head. Load a normal standard load and go hunting

Cheers Moa,

yes Ive got the donut ring at the neck / shoulder junction. Ive adjusted all so that they can chamber and have also expanded the neck.

Originally Posted by R93

Same thing is achieved by seating a projectile so the base is firm against the bolt face. Common knowledge to most that run improved cases.
If forming without projectiles I run a larger button thru the neck so I get the same results.


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Agreed R 93, only thought is that if the projectile is tooo tight there could be pressure problems with a standard load. Also we don't know how far out Willus would need to seat to touch the lands, so keeping on the safe side what you suggest is probably fine for a more experienced reloader IMO

Fair point.

However you should always work up just like any development to see what will form the best case.

He is essentially just necking down. Not really forming as such, so no dramas either way.

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