Thread: .260 Advice

Great caliber. Like some, I made mine different and went the 30 degree improved version to make the brass last longer & look sexier. Buy 260 brass like Lapua, bugger resizing it from 308.

Re sizing should be easy, there's enough people here who have done it to give you advice.
I have had great success using Remington 260 brass, but have now got myself some Lapua.

My Tikka T3 is a joy to shoot, not much recoil, accurate and easy to reload for.

After a fare bit of experimentation I found that H414 worked the best in my 260, 120 to 140 projos

Originally Posted by mutton gun

After a fare bit of experimentation I found that H414 worked the best in my 260, 120 to 140 projos

W760 for my Ackley. Equivalent to H414 and made in same place.

Gave better velocity and case life of all the traditional and recommended powders I have tried in my rifle.

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Originally Posted by R93

W760 for my Ackley. Equivalent to H414 and made in same place.

Gave better velocity and case life of all the traditional and recommended powders I have tried in my rifle.

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When I was building my 260 Imp, I researched a lot about suitable powders and picked W760 as being favourable, so I bought a tub of it. Then some bugger mentioned RL17 and yes it gives great velocity but I've shagged some cases proving it. Guess I should dust that 760 off and try it aye

Originally Posted by Mathias

When I was building my 260 Imp, I researched a lot about suitable powders and picked W760 as being favourable, so I bought a tub of it. Then some bugger mentioned RL17 and yes it gives great velocity but I've shagged some cases proving it. Guess I should dust that 760 off and try it aye

To be fair there is still bugger all info on the improved version. Barrels aside there are a lot of extreme/bullshit claims in the velocity department imho.

I searched heaps as well when I first got it and tried everything (OCD).
Yup. Best velocities came from 17 but you just couldn't get it when needed.

2209/4350 were reliable and accurate but pretty pedestrian in my barrel.

I can't remember who, but someone on here suggested to try W760 and I did. Havent looked back.

I still use 2209 for 140 class and up but rarely shoot them now apart from a bit of steel.

Cheap and dirty old Hornady 129 interlock is as accurate and deadly in close and far out as I need it to be. Barrel has had a few rounds down it now and going well.

Looking to get a 7mm barrel of some description done for steel and so I can take my own rifle on a moose hunt overseas. Unless KJ lends me his 7mag barrel




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I reckon Im in with a chance. Given the prize at the end it'll be worth a crack.
Iv rasied teenagers, they tend to rebel against parents a little.

Originally Posted by sneeze

I reckon Im in with a chance. Given the prize at the end it'll be worth a crack.
Iv rasied teenagers, they tend to rebel against parents a little.

Thats true but not fair.

Buy the fucker a Ps4 game and he might listen to ya.

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@dnsn before you go the route of resizing your brass from .308 to .260 ( which isnt difficult )
Keep a couple of things in mind.
If your getting a new chamber reamed then it could have close tolerances, this will be a problem with repurposed brass as it could have thicker neck walls.
So when you add your projectile into the case mouth, the total width will be too great and the loaded ammunition wont chamber.
You can over come this by neck turning the case neck walls down a little thinner.

If you dont have a neck turner it will cost you a bit to buy one, so the "cheap" .308 brass just got dearer.

Originally Posted by johnd

@dnsn before you go the route of resizing your brass from .308 to .260 ( which isnt difficult )
Keep a couple of things in mind.
If your getting a new chamber reamed then it could have close tolerances, this will be a problem with repurposed brass as it could have thicker neck walls.
So when you add your projectile into the case mouth, the total width will be too great and the loaded ammunition wont chamber.
You can over come this by neck turning the case neck walls down a little thinner.

If you dont have a neck turner it will cost you a bit to buy one, so the "cheap" .308 brass just got dearer.

I'm thinking that! .260 Lapua brass is $190ish at GunWorks - it's looking a bit more promising to head that direction and build a separate .308 if I've got another spare action.

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A mate rezized a hole bunch of 308 brass but didn't have much luck getting it to shoot so would suggest getting 260 brass
In my opinion 260 is better suited to 120-130gn bullets than 140 plus
But there are those like gimp that will disagree

I have a awesome 260 but don't have much experience with reloading it unless you call trying a few of my mates handloads shooting ok enough for hunting and sticking with that recipe experience lol

@dnsn theres a bunch of 1 and 2 fired norma brass on tm that will prob sell for close to full retail

Originally Posted by johnd

@dnsn theres a bunch of 1 and 2 fired norma brass on tm that will prob sell for close to full retail

Ones in Rotorua? I'm watching them already

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Definitely agree about projectiles of 120-130 class being better suited for the .260Rem at normal to moderate hunting ranges.

The 140s and up come into their own for LR stuff. Hopefully used just at targets beyond certain ranges at standard .260 speeds.





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Take a look at the 6.5 Super LR:

6.5 Super LR

Improved 260 with no fireforming required. Dean Maisey has reamer.