Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor reloading for hunting advice please.

Have a new Tikka T3X (laminate) in 6.5 Creedmoor with a Burris signature 3-15 installed. after a 6 shot barrel break in process its putting holes in holes at 100m with Nolsler 140 grn factory ammo (it showed pressure signs with the 120 grn??) so very happy with its performance so far. Question is, If I was to start building a hot hunting load what powder would I want if the opportunity presented itself? I am slowly paying off a Greystone 3k baffle suppressor so I am in no rush. I have a lee reloading kit, no dies yet, a pound of 6.5 staball, a pound of H 4350. Zero projectiles, though I think I know what to jump on, at least 400 primers (thank F##k). biggest thing I plan on shooting with said rifle would be a red doe with maybe a 300m cap.

Don't worry about load development until you have your surpressor, otherwise you will need to start all over again.
I use Hodgdon superproformance or RL 26 in my Creedmoor and Hornady 143 eldx don't go looking for hot loads you just want a good accurate load with good speed.
What length barrel are you going to cut it to

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

sub 300 yards he wont need load development...... and adding suppressor simply dropped my poi by between 1-2 inches on 4 different rifles...did nothing else to group except maybe tighten them as I reacted less.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

sub 300 yards he wont need load development...... and adding suppressor simply dropped my poi by between 1-2 inches on 4 different rifles...did nothing else to group except maybe tighten them as I reacted less.

Every handload needs load development you heathen

Originally Posted by Gibo

Every handload needs load development you heathen

Im happy to resemble that remark...... but if he picks a middle of road load from manual...and then seats them as Ive suggested above,and they poke holes in paper in/around or under the inch mark.....well thats it job done,no need for further fluffing around,go shoot shit and be happy..and for crying out loud DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES go near a chronic graph.....
(I can see Dannyb shaking his head and looking for jandles to throw at me) seriously,if its accurate just leave it alone...for what Mike is shooting,and the range he is shooting them at,no need for anything really super flash.... hell if his .223 wasnt a dud he could use that without any problems.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Im happy to resemble that remark...... but if he picks a middle of road load from manual...and then seats them as Ive suggested above,and they poke holes in paper in/around or under the inch mark.....well thats it job done,no need for further fluffing around,go shoot shit and be happy..and for crying out loud DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES go near a chronic graph.....
(I can see Dannyb shaking his head and looking for jandles to throw at me) seriously,if its accurate just leave it alone...for what Mike is shooting,and the range he is shooting them at,no need for anything really super flash.... hell if his .223 wasnt a dud he could use that without any problems.

That's still development

I intend on keeping as much barrel length as I can, so 21.5-22 inches (barrel is 22 inches I think) Yes sorry, I meant to say a fast accurate load.. probably 140 grain partitions or 143 ELD-X

Originally Posted by Mroach

I intend on keeping as much barrel length as I can, so 21.5-22 inches (barrel is 22 inches I think) Yes sorry, I meant to say a fast accurate load.. probably 140 grain partitions or 143 ELD-X

The ELDX in the 6.5 works well my 20" is pushing it at 2800fps.


Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

I think that sort of performance is all I would need.

how do you get that much velocity with a 20inch barrel? I mean realistically most of my hunting is on 25-30kg goats and pigs well within 200m (more like 80m) however every once in a while I am presented with a mob at 300ish if I had velocity confidence I would bang away. lets say practice for for the biggest animal I would take at a similar range.

Originally Posted by Mroach

how do you get that much velocity with a 20inch barrel?

I cant speak for @25/08 IMP but my 20" creedmoor is doing 2820 with 143 ELDX aswell, it used to do 2920 when it was 24". I use FED215 mag primer in lapua brass & projectile is seated way out, barely fits in the mag ( 2.960 COAL ) to be able to do it.

For what your doing its really not necessary to chase that sort of speed. Even if you ran a light load of h4350 at around the 2600fps mark thats more than enough juice to take care of business well past your 300 ish goal.

get what you can get...THEN go from there...otherwise you will chase your tail...and if your still only talking sub 300 yards it really wont matter much what the hell you use.... pretty much any projectile between 120-150 grns will be ideal..... cup n core no need for fancy plastic tip..but get what you can get...KEEP ONE of those factory loads aside...use it to set up seating depth...yes others will tell you you NEED fancy pants measuring device,three pairs of toads legs and a twitch of elderberry crossed with hemlock in order to get it to shoot... but if your projectile is SIMILAR to what you have that works...if you set up seating die using your round...the new projectiles will be SIMILAR jump to rifling....

Thanks Micky, you just confirmed what I was pondering over COAL. havent measured the 120 grn Noslers as of yet though they appear from the naked eye to be the same length. Why would I get pressure signs from factory ammo? surely they aint that hot

is it not already threaded???? if so LEAVE IT ALONE...... your experience with last rifle should have taught you...if its not broken dont fcuk with it....

Its not an option unfortunately, if I lose any more hearing in my right ear the diving career is over. but I am sending it to Glen Maisey to do threading and I believe the greystone suppressors are good. apart from cleaning it, my amatuer gun tinkering days are over..