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Thread: Fitting different safety lever

  1. #1
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    Fitting different safety lever

    Got a mauser bolt for my long suffering parker Hale project. Also got a low swing parker Hale safety from good bugger garyp before i even got the bolt and went to fit it other night.
    Had some issues with the firing pin locking in the lugs down in the bolt not letting the bolt sleeve turn either direction about turn and a half from home
    Worked out that one but still had some dramas with the safety.
    After further inspection/testing the small cam at the end of the safety lever wont engage the recess in the bolt body. The original is designed to turn 180 degrees and there is way less metal on the end. The new safety only has to small flats opposite each other
    This is most likely some of my other issue also.
    Gut feel here is to modify the safety not the bolt to make it all work. Sound right? Then at least I can refit the original if need be. What did they do to the PH bolts?
    Plus need to confirm if this safety is meant to lock the bolt on safe or just the cocking piece. That may make it a lot easier.
    Looks like the ramp for the safety to engage the cocking piece is already done but will test that once it's all together

  2. #2
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    Somebody probably has a PH to check , but I think the safety was along side the action.
    Been a few years since I handled one.
    Pennyless

  3. #3
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    Nope no Allen screws. Fits the same way as the original mauser types. It isnt the Santa barbara type with the safety on the action.
    It sort of functions like the original but only swings up 30 degrees

  4. #4
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    no, don't think so. The ramp on mine is on the safety. I can post a pic later of that if you like.
    here is a happy snap of the two safeties. They are orientated as if they were on the bolt in the fire position looking from the chamber end. You can see the differences on the ends of the shaft. The low swing style is the thinner one with the serrations on the thumb section. It has two small cut-outs opposite each other while the original one has only a quarter or so left and engages the recess on the bolt body when it is 180 degrees to the right.
    The new safety may only need a small amount removed so it can achieve the same thing in a small arc or remove enough so that it only blocks the cocking piece and lets you unload the chamber with the safety on.
    That's why I was asking what they did from factory.
    Mind you it might just be better to block the cocking piece and not lock the whole thing together for unloading purposes.

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  5. #5
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    Yup already had that idea in my head.
    Would be nice to know what was done in factory.
    Also be nice to know the intended function of the safety but as posted I may just talk myself out of the boot fully locked idea if it that was its function.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    Looks like it's designed to be two-position only to me. I've never seen one thats three position side swing too.
    Yup I know it's only two position. Its whether its in the fire position or it looks the bolt and blocks the cocking piece at the same time. Missing out the middle position on a normal safety. Done some hand fitting tonight to get it to work. Not finished yet but not far away.. with the least amount off to make it work it locks everything up

  7. #7
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    i have a beuller style low swing safety on my 98..... the cam locks into the slot on the firing pin

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by scotty View Post
    i have a beuller style low swing safety on my 98..... the cam locks into the slot on the firing pin
    This one is a parker Hale safety. It does the same thing as the factory safety and cams the cocking piece back

  9. #9
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    typically now I have the safety engaging on the cocking piece properly.By the time I got it enough to engage there isn't enough there to lock the bolt anyway.
    BUT now when you engage the safety it doesn't pull it back past the sear. you can pull the trigger an the sear lets go. When you release the safety it does come back a small amount and let the trigger sear engage properly but not ideal.
    Measured the two safeties and there is 5 thou difference between them. Being a different bolt certainly doesn't help. with the bolts original safety it does clear but would suggest not by much
    Hard to pin a proper measurement down but minimum is 10 though clearance.
    bugger. Conflicting reports say I can/cant stone the cocking piece. Probably depends on military vs civilian.
    where it says you cant stone the cocking piece, it recommends rehardening or trying a different cocking piece.
    Thoughts?
    Last edited by csmiffy; 14-07-2020 at 01:56 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    Can you place a washer on the shaft of the safety to push it back a little bit further? Something like 0.010 thou shim stock?
    @Mauser308 I could try something like that.
    Only thing is there is a small lug on the bottom of the safety that does engage in the bolt shroud when in the safe position
    It helps to locate the safety.
    There is the possibility it would tear to bits from that lug but still worth a try.

  11. #11
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    ill try the shim without anything first. At the end of the day it has to go to a gunsmith to get the other barrel fitted and head spaced.
    He may have some options. If I thought I could get away with stoning 5 thou off it to make it clear I would do set it up to keep the right angles and do that.

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    Yup
    That's why I was asking.
    Mind you this isnt an old bolt.
    There is an H on it by the bolt handle I think.
    Reckon it's a Husqvarna jobbie

 

 

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