Thread: One gun?

Originally Posted by Pengy

Nothing I have shot at with my Marlin poo for pee has ever walked away

Did they all run instead?

The best combination of hardest hitting with least recoil for non regular shooters, has to be 2506 Rem, if your clients are yanks they will think it the best thing since sliced bread, 6.5x55 (or 260) would be next best, but yanks don't seem to like Euro cals, 7mm08, 308, 270 and similar have more recoil than a non shooter needs to be on the end of.

im an odd fellow and im ok id go 6.5x55 or 7x57 an old sporterised m96/38 would be cheap and do the job for novice shooters i wouldnt be expecting a first time shooter to be knocking over animals at 500 + however it is doable tho

Well you have crtainly had a few sound ideas and reasons why.
It seems , and it's a good thing , nobody is recomending magnuns etc as posters are experienced enough to know for your spec's you don't need em.

Depends on your client base to Brads, if you looking mainly Dad and Son, or Novice, or if venturing further that will I think impact on your choice
If the Americans are in the mix I really think you'll need more than one rifle, and a 30 06 or 7mm magnum maybe the choice there. They may feel more comfortable with this if it is offered as a choice.I'm not saying you should push it or they should use it but an accurate 30 06 or 7mm as a choice could probably be comfortable to some of those from the USA.

Locals, I know I rattled off a number of calibers before and I still stick with those as generic so take your Pick.
However, a decent, well tuned, suppressed 7mm 08 with you as backup will probably be all the Dad and Dave type need to have a successful hunt.

I have a tikka action with 24 inch barrel in 284 with can, have had in laminated stock, but now synthetic with limbsaver, my nearly 12yr old boy has been bugging me to have a go, he had a smash last week and was fine. So My cal suggestion is 284, for glass you should definitely go dial up so there is no need for the old. Just aim xyz above etc. Having taken boys through a hunting based mentor program and having now put 20 new hunters in last 3 yrs on their first deer I would say for inexperienced Hunter be limit at 300yds/m. Just my 2cents

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BTW all my new hunters use my 708 and max shot has been 280m

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Have to say I wouldn't let a newby to shooting have a bash at anything live past 200yds, you can tell them where to aim till you are blue in the face and you may not get what you need, a clean ethical on the spot kill. Might be handy to mount a green lazer pointer on your back up rifle and blaze the actual spot you want him/her to hit. I have tried exactly that and it seems to work. Am assuming you will back your clients up so you can quickly finish the inevitable gut shot/ leg shot animal, so if you are already on it with a lazer anyway, lights out Bambi or Piggy Sue or Rossi. (he is a GOAT isn't he?)

Originally Posted by HNTMAD

I have a tikka action with 24 inch barrel in 284 with can, have had in laminated stock, but now synthetic with limbsaver, my nearly 12yr old boy has been bugging me to have a go, he had a smash last week and was fine. So My cal suggestion is 284, for glass you should definitely go dial up so there is no need for the old. Just aim xyz above etc. Having taken boys through a hunting based mentor program and having now put 20 new hunters in last 3 yrs on their first deer I would say for inexperienced Hunter be limit at 300yds/m. Just my 2cents

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I have some experience n don't really want to shoot at 300 yards...just my personal opinion


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I think for "novices" or father and son type shooting the most off-putting thing is noise.
I have a brake which make my gun much less bouncy and more easier to shoot well'er but apart from when I did load initial load development I have not used it as its too dam noisey.
Ringing ears really ruin your day and dogs not too impressed either.

my .02c would be 7-08 / 308 / 6.5x55 with good scope and suppressed

Being a huge blaser fan, I would never use one as a guide rifle. To complicated in a rush for someone having never used one.

I have heard other guides rubbishing blasers that clients carry. It isint the tool in my experience, it is the operator and lack of experience with the tool. Have had mine for over 15 yrs and apart from a bumped scope, I am the only liability it has, like most rifles.

Originally Posted by 257weatherby

Have to say I wouldn't let a newby to shooting have a bash at anything live past 200yds, you can tell them where to aim till you are blue in the face and you may not get what you need, a clean ethical on the spot kill. Might be handy to mount a green lazer pointer on your back up rifle and blaze the actual spot you want him/her to hit. I have tried exactly that and it seems to work. Am assuming you will back your clients up so you can quickly finish the inevitable gut shot/ leg shot animal, so if you are already on it with a lazer anyway, lights out Bambi or Piggy Sue or Rossi. (he is a GOAT isn't he?)

Its one of those hard calls

To take your time and get a good rest and make a relaxed shot at further distance is much easier and clients will shot better then stalking in and having to rush a shot.
Its one of them damned if you do damned if you don't situations sometimes.

A few thoughts to consider--
1 You want a clean kill at 400 metres. This means that allowing for mediocre shot placement, you will want about 1000 ft lbs at that range.
2 You will probably have allowed the client some practice shooting prior to hunting in order to familiarize them with the rifle. A high recoiling rifle will stuff most of them up. Therefore you need a heavy rifle to reduce recoil and muzzle jump. A long mid-weight barrel might be considered.
3 You will want to minimize the noise factor. Therefore you need a good can.
4 You require consistent accuracy and therefore a good quality rifle.
5 You require a very good indemnity clause and insurance policy. I would suggest this would exclude handloads.

In view of the above criteria, a powerful cartridge no less than 7mm / 284 / 308 cal 150 grain high bc round at >2800fps MV with a purpose installed recoil absorbing stock and a gross weight of not less than around 8 lbs is probably what you need; fitted with a can and cds dial scope. A portable rest would be mandatory.

Bolt action only.

I wouldn't like any novice shooting past 300 if can be helped. Get in as close as possible. Huge fan of the mighty 243 but prefer to be shooting 220m and under and I think theres better cals are there if 300-400m shots are on. Suppressor must be the go ,something like 2506, 7m 08, 260 etc . Least recoil as possible , decent scope cant go wrong.

It's already in your safe mate...




Why sell down when you've got this.

Light, heaps of knock down energy for a humane kill, even from perhaps a poorly placed shot. Hardy can settles the recoil and sorts the noise. The client doesn't need to hear the 'Ultra Magnum' part of the cal name.
The last thing you need is to be bashing around with a client in the scrub looking for an animal wounded with a pop gun....not a good look.
Look at Josh James's latest video, a guy took a shot at his first deer, all they found was a fragment of leg bone and a knee-cap, they joked about a three legged deer running around the bush.....that ain't flash.....you may have a female client.....that would go down like a cup of cold sick with the ladies.
I'm sure Brian Elworth ( The Sika Man ) lent his clients a 30 cal magnum of sorts with a can on it.

It's in your safe, all sorted, ready to go.

Just sayin'

B

One advantage that Brad has is his longrange gongs. He can take a client out to the gong range and give them some practice before they try the real thing. He can also check out how well they can shoot at different ranges and use that to decide how far to let them shoot on a live animal. It will also give the client confidence as well.
It would be awesome to get a life-size steel deer made up as well. It and the rifle will be tax deductible too!