Thread: Scope adjustment issues

I had the same frustrations a while back with a G1 NV scope.

It was new and still under warranty at the time. To establish that it was the scope and not the rifle I put a piece of picatinny rail in an engineers vice in the garage.
Mounted the scope on the rail and swivelled the vice until the scope was looking down the driveway.

I used the vehicle number plate at 25m as a dial reference, but you could also use a grid.

While looking through the scope I wound the adjustments and watched the movement of the reticle, it would track ok until it reached certain areas in the view then it would stop tracking despite more dialing. However if the windage had stopped tracking, it would jump the width of the number plate at the first few clicks of the elevation.

I tried a couple of spare scopes I had and found the tracking of one axis can be affected slightly by the dialling of the other.
If you dial your elevation into the 6 in the clockface it is harder to dial the windage to the 3 or the 9.

One other tip to help. As a welder you should be able to make a jig to use the method in the video below.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MDNQ1P5M90k

Larry makes it look a bit easier than it is in reality but in reality the method works.
When sighting in I do as per Larry in the video, when I fire the shots as per normal (just using bipod or rest with rifle on shoulder), but for adjustments I put the rifle in a jig and secure it with a tie down strop (firing it from in the jig produces a different point of impact).

Once the jig is aligned with the bullseye I ‘walk’ the crosshairs onto the bullet hole/group centre.

I can usually get a rifle sorted with six or seven rounds, have never needed more than 10.